dtr

Temps are ususally between 80-100°F around here, my motor is about 115-140 after 10 mins.

bmitch282

K, what's a good electric temp window again?

dtr

Castle recommends <200°F.

bmitch282

Sweet thanks! Getting back into it after a year (:

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

If one breaks alloy caster blocks with plastic spindles , what do you think is gna happen when you install alloy spindles?
Sumn's gna give!!!

SoCalMX

iTrader: (5)

I will be going back to plastic casters. I am by no means spending another $50 only to have one snap again. My new chassis should be in tomorrow so a complete swap and diff service will take up my day. When doing the diffs, what all should I replace, housing, diffs etc???

fredmotokx

iTrader: (1)

When rebuilding my diff I always replace the gasket, o ring, washers and pin, rarely the housing. (TLR332001). I always Inspect if gears are still good.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

repost, a little help please.

fredmotokx

iTrader: (1)

Tekno drive shaft conversion TKR2210X
Rear 0.5mm hex TLR332014
For the caster blocks I do not know if you want the plastic or the aluminum version.

Razorbelly

__________________________________________________ ____________
I run the CC 3800KV motor down in South Alabama at some of the tracks and I use the fan on it. Motor temps are lower and makes the motor bearings last longer also. I run the HW SCT PRO/3800KV w/ a 14T, temps stay below 140 in the summer time. Just as fast as my 4600KV motor, Which i run CC motor fan on also.

kahuna2793

What's everyone using for reciever box ? Any pic?

Mclogo

Last weekend we had a 1st and 3rd Place in the Swiss Nats Round3 (Large medium bite Indoor carpet Tack) with our TLR SCTE 2.0's.
We where only 2 TLR's of 23 Racers but the SCTE handled great and we had the large advantage as our cars never broke. We both completed all practice rounds, qualifying and the finals and my friend dominated every run by at least 1/2sec per round.

We both used ThunderPower 4,5t 550 2 pole motors and normal Hobbywing/Nosram ESC's, this has also proven to be easy to handle and reliable.

I'm very happy with my SCTE as now the outdoor season will start and we know that our trucks will also handle very good on dirt

skrichter

iTrader: (13)

While I was preparing my SCTE for the outdoor season, I noticed 2 things:

1. When trying to compress the front shocks, at about 3/4 compression they start to bind up. I pinpointed the issue -- the inner front tie rod ends on the steering rack. They bind up as you compress the shocks. Curious if folks are using a different inner front rod end to allow free movement? UPDATE: - See MIP 13250 steering kit. MIP seems to have addressed the binding issue with dubro ends and beveled shims.

2. Steering endpont to the right cannot fully reach. This is due to the servo link hitting up against the drag/ackerman link. If anyone is aware of a remedy, let me know.

Thx!

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

1. The balls have a flange to them. On the inner tie rods (that connect to the bellcrank) the flange faces up. On the outside (that connects to the spindle) the flange faces down.

2. You may need to add a washer or two to the steering link where it connects to the bellcrank to raise it up just a bit to clear the ackerman link. I had to do this when I installed the ball bearing bellcrank by vision racing.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

thank you, def want the aluminum.