£1000 , Desing your Dream RC Car
#2
Heres mine
RC TB Evolution IV - TBEVOIV -$656.00 - £323.50
EA MotorSport Motor -- $--.-- - £--.--
-----Spektrum----
DSM 3-Channel Pro Series Surface Module/Rx: R-1
DX3.0: Pro-Style Digital Features at Your Fingertips
And nomal charger , i think that comes to like £800 or so ..
RC TB Evolution IV - TBEVOIV -$656.00 - £323.50
EA MotorSport Motor -- $--.-- - £--.--
-----Spektrum----
DSM 3-Channel Pro Series Surface Module/Rx: R-1
DX3.0: Pro-Style Digital Features at Your Fingertips
And nomal charger , i think that comes to like £800 or so ..
#3
Read my sig
And I wouldnt change anything
And I wouldnt change anything
#5
#6
Well for the ride, I will use my Xray, but
I would replace every thing metal: Screws, Bulkheads, Swingshafts, outdrives, turnbuckles with Liquid Metal parts which in all should be lighter than the stock setup but alot stronger.
I would replace every thing metal: Screws, Bulkheads, Swingshafts, outdrives, turnbuckles with Liquid Metal parts which in all should be lighter than the stock setup but alot stronger.
#7
I just picked up a new FG EVO 7 by the time I put new electronics in it I was well over $4000 USD... £1000 is nothing
#8
Tamiya TRF 415 MSX MRE
KO PROPO EX10 HEILOS
KO PROPO servo low profile
KO PROPO ESC
Steath PT
MMR CTXC
Spektrum Pro series modulation
adds up to
------------
@$$ load of CASH
KO PROPO EX10 HEILOS
KO PROPO servo low profile
KO PROPO ESC
Steath PT
MMR CTXC
Spektrum Pro series modulation
adds up to
------------
@$$ load of CASH
#9
I could possibly build it for less than that but I doubt it.
Neu 2200 series motor $500 +/-
Phoenix HV-110 $230
Custom CF drag chassis $150
Matched 20cell Pack $140 +/-
Custom machined aluminum parts $200 +/-
But that brings my total up to $1220 USD, I'm not sure what that is in ₤ but it's only 863 EUR.
Neu 2200 series motor $500 +/-
Phoenix HV-110 $230
Custom CF drag chassis $150
Matched 20cell Pack $140 +/-
Custom machined aluminum parts $200 +/-
But that brings my total up to $1220 USD, I'm not sure what that is in ₤ but it's only 863 EUR.
#15
Here is how I would budget yourself.
Go to your local track and see what cars are popular. Also find out what classes people run. Brushless would probly be the best way to go. If they run lipo I would run lipo as well. You should be able to pick up a great car, esc, and radio, and servo for around $800 u.s. Then for a charger I would pick up the hyperion 5 amp charger & a pair of orion lipos $350 u.s. Now, this should be a solid setup for getting started. Now, if your local track doesn't allow lipos then i'm sure you can pick up a set of packs, w/ a battery management system for $400 or so, lipos are the way to go though. Now, after you convert that you should still have a good $800 u.s. left or so. This means that you will be left with a great budget for spare parts. If you want to run a second class, perhaps pan car then pick up the hyperion 10 amp charger w/ two balancers( you will be able to charge two packs at once w/ this) and a 3rd battery. If you are looking to just get started in racing I would stick with one class though and look to save that extra money for spare parts, tools, tires, ect.
Go to your local track and see what cars are popular. Also find out what classes people run. Brushless would probly be the best way to go. If they run lipo I would run lipo as well. You should be able to pick up a great car, esc, and radio, and servo for around $800 u.s. Then for a charger I would pick up the hyperion 5 amp charger & a pair of orion lipos $350 u.s. Now, this should be a solid setup for getting started. Now, if your local track doesn't allow lipos then i'm sure you can pick up a set of packs, w/ a battery management system for $400 or so, lipos are the way to go though. Now, after you convert that you should still have a good $800 u.s. left or so. This means that you will be left with a great budget for spare parts. If you want to run a second class, perhaps pan car then pick up the hyperion 10 amp charger w/ two balancers( you will be able to charge two packs at once w/ this) and a 3rd battery. If you are looking to just get started in racing I would stick with one class though and look to save that extra money for spare parts, tools, tires, ect.