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Old 07-26-2002, 06:14 PM
  #2176  
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So do I have to use the new arms? I'm considering using the rear arms as a template for the front arms. ( I think someone mentioned this in an earlier post????) Or , do I just use the holes on the original arms? So many questions about holes!! Thanks--Al
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Old 07-27-2002, 07:44 AM
  #2177  
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i have driled holes on the front and rear wishbones 2mm outside the original ones i tried this at club meeting on wednesday and tq by 10 sec without the out holes the rear shock tower cant be used as the ride hieght cannot be brought down unless shorten shocks are used. i havnt yet tried the shock tower but im tring it this wednesday. gotta try these things else ull never find out if it will work
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Old 07-27-2002, 09:59 AM
  #2178  
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t.i.r. .....
The new hole on the back arm is inside on the arm compared to original hole....

On the ft arms, its outside the original hole ....
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Old 07-28-2002, 02:15 PM
  #2179  
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I just ordered a new FT TC3 and will be picking it up this Thursday. I was looking for a good starting point for stock racing with foams on asphalt. It is a indoor track with good traction plus we can use traction compound so getting grip is normally not a problem. I never had a TC3 before but had various other ones. I have had a Yoke MR4TC, HPI Pro 2, Axis 1 and 2, FSR Bullet, and the Tamiya EVO2 plus more. Finally decided to run the TC3 as all the others were really pretty good for me. Just decided that the TC3 is very easy for me to get parts for.

I was thinking like 60wt front with copper springs #2 piston and for the rear like 50wt with red springs and #2 piston with all other settings in the stock position. Would this be a decent starting spot? Also what 64 pitch spur do most use for stock with the TC3? I will be running a P2K2 and I a normal roll out for our track in stock is around 27.50mm to 28.50mm with 60mm Jaco purple foams front and rear.

Most cars I have run I ran 60 to 70 wt oil but as I have been looking at alot of other TC3 setups it seems most run heavier springs in the front and about one softer weight in the rear and about 10 wt softer oil in the rear. Does this car car have alot of natural steering or lack of. From my impression and the track I race at that when I went to stiffer springs on any end of the car it produced more overall traction. If I wanted more steering I went up to one stiffer spring.

Thanks
Brian
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Old 07-28-2002, 04:17 PM
  #2180  
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I just got a HUDY setup station. I was wondering when you set the droop, should I leave the shocks on or off.
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Old 07-28-2002, 08:10 PM
  #2181  
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YODACE--
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Old 07-28-2002, 08:23 PM
  #2182  
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Sorry!! YODACE--When you set droop the shocks can be left on or off. It's really a matter preference. You have to make sure that the shock lenght is longer than the droop setting or the droop screws will not "work". The shock has to be able to drop lower than the droop setting for the adjustment to be utilized correctly!

I finally got to test out the rear shock tower up front. I had to use the stock arms, but all I can say is WOW!! Major exit speed!! A mod well worth the money and effort. I highly recommend it!
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Old 07-28-2002, 11:05 PM
  #2183  
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Confused,

when somebody says add more droop do they mean go down or up on the scale? Like for example I have my droop set on 4 and I whated to had more droop I should go to like to right.
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Old 07-28-2002, 11:06 PM
  #2184  
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Confused, Sorry for the double post.

when somebody says add more droop do they mean go down or up on the scale? Like for example I have my droop set on 4 and I whated to had more droop. I should go to like to down to three right.
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Old 07-28-2002, 11:25 PM
  #2185  
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Correct....at least that is what I understood he meant by adding more droop.
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Old 07-29-2002, 09:51 AM
  #2186  
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More droop is 3mm to 4mm less droop is 4mm to 3mm so when someone adds droop the number gets bigger.
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Old 07-29-2002, 10:17 AM
  #2187  
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Default Sorry Rod,

but yu got it the wrong way.

When you add droop, the number on the gauge gets smaller (arm closer to the table).

For example: You got 5 mm droop, that means you arms are 5mm above your chassis level when the shocks are off and the car is supported (droop blocks)

Now, you want your arms go 2 mm further down (more droop) they will be only 3mm above your chassis level..

Hard to explain, but that's how it works.

Aren't you running XXX-S by the way?
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Old 07-29-2002, 04:06 PM
  #2188  
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I have both XXXS and a TC3.
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Old 07-29-2002, 05:37 PM
  #2189  
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Stefan thanks for the clarification I will have to revisit the idea later. I got another TC3 2 or 3 months ago
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Old 07-29-2002, 07:12 PM
  #2190  
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Buster in the XRAY thread explained Droop in great detail...take a look.
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