2Likes3Racing Sakura Zero S
01-17-2012, 06:14 AM
#1021
So Further to our discussion about heat. I pulled the motor out and cleaned it and re shimmed it properly,
Removed the Timing ring and re geared the car 4.84
1st Qual 5min Came in at 100 Degrees F TQ time as well
2nd Qual Handed it over to a Noob who was there to watch and I watched the car for how it was pitching around the track.
That time came in at 90 F
10 min A Main - After looking at the time sheets My Car was slower than the fastest guys but having TQ meant I ran exceptionally clean in the first run
I ended up Winning that race and the Motor only got to 120F
So not that the motor is working good again I will start upping the Gearing to see where the limit is
Removed the Timing ring and re geared the car 4.84
1st Qual 5min Came in at 100 Degrees F TQ time as well
2nd Qual Handed it over to a Noob who was there to watch and I watched the car for how it was pitching around the track.
That time came in at 90 F
10 min A Main - After looking at the time sheets My Car was slower than the fastest guys but having TQ meant I ran exceptionally clean in the first run
I ended up Winning that race and the Motor only got to 120F
So not that the motor is working good again I will start upping the Gearing to see where the limit is
01-17-2012, 06:28 AM
#1022
Awesome to hear! I have a pretty serious fan setup on my car (1x 40mm, 2x 30mm) and running a 3.80, I came off last night at 115 degrees after 14 min. I know several racers that are running 1 fan, or none at all and make it work with sub 4.0 FDR's. I just prefer running everything cooler for longevity.
01-17-2012, 06:35 AM
#1024
Tech Master
01-18-2012, 02:16 AM
#1027
Tech Apprentice
Is the narrow lipo chassis a straight fit from the zero s or do you need to order the narrower suspension mounts?
01-18-2012, 03:50 AM
#1029
Tech Apprentice
01-18-2012, 04:22 AM
#1030
Tech Master
01-19-2012, 03:04 AM
#1031
Local hardware stores here have double sided Velcro, hooks on one side loops on the other, so I use that in place of tape as i cant be bothered redoing tape everytime i charge and it works fine for me, still wears through but lasts multiple track days as opposed to tape...depends how serious you want to take it I guess 
Nb, we have to charge in lipo bags, but if you are allowed to charge in the car then this isn't really an issue and tape is lighter and less likely to slip.
Nb, we have to charge in lipo bags, but if you are allowed to charge in the car then this isn't really an issue and tape is lighter and less likely to slip.
01-20-2012, 02:23 AM
#1032
I've got a Sakura S and just picked up the standard and Narrow CF Chassis but the holes for the battery mounts are not there, I have tried the mod here with the TC6 holders but I find they allow too much slop in the battery from end to end. I went the CF chassis to eliminate varying flex from side to side with the hole cut outs in the chassis for the sub C cells but is it that much an issue for a class such as VTA??
Should I just cut my losses stay with the FRP chassis so I can run the strap and flip the cf chassis to someone a bit more of a hardcore racer?
Should I just cut my losses stay with the FRP chassis so I can run the strap and flip the cf chassis to someone a bit more of a hardcore racer?
01-20-2012, 02:32 AM
#1033
Glue some plastic pieces on your batteries where they are at the slots on the CF chassis so the battery will stay in it's place.
Then use glasfiber tape to hold the battery in place.
Works like a charm.
If not, mount the CF batteryholders that come with the CF chassic kit on spacers so you can fit the battery strap on/under there.
regards Roy
Then use glasfiber tape to hold the battery in place.
Works like a charm.
If not, mount the CF batteryholders that come with the CF chassic kit on spacers so you can fit the battery strap on/under there.
regards Roy
I've got a Sakura S and just picked up the standard and Narrow CF Chassis but the holes for the battery mounts are not there, I have tried the mod here with the TC6 holders but I find they allow too much slop in the battery from end to end. I went the CF chassis to eliminate varying flex from side to side with the hole cut outs in the chassis for the sub C cells but is it that much an issue for a class such as VTA??
Should I just cut my losses stay with the FRP chassis so I can run the strap and flip the cf chassis to someone a bit more of a hardcore racer?
Should I just cut my losses stay with the FRP chassis so I can run the strap and flip the cf chassis to someone a bit more of a hardcore racer?
01-20-2012, 06:12 AM
#1034
I've got a Sakura S and just picked up the standard and Narrow CF Chassis but the holes for the battery mounts are not there, I have tried the mod here with the TC6 holders but I find they allow too much slop in the battery from end to end. I went the CF chassis to eliminate varying flex from side to side with the hole cut outs in the chassis for the sub C cells but is it that much an issue for a class such as VTA??
Should I just cut my losses stay with the FRP chassis so I can run the strap and flip the cf chassis to someone a bit more of a hardcore racer?
Should I just cut my losses stay with the FRP chassis so I can run the strap and flip the cf chassis to someone a bit more of a hardcore racer?
