narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

There is no standardised length for these, you play with that length to get the sway bar balanced left to right.
It's kinda hard to explain it in writing but here goes.

Make sure you've set your droop and take the shocks off.
Get a ruler or known object (droop block or something ) as you push up the arm, there will be a point where the opposite arm starts to rise because of the sway bar. The goal is to get that the same on both sides. For example as you move the rear right arm up a length of x, the rear left arm will start to get lifted by the sway bar. Now lift up the rear left arm the same length of x, and the rear right arm should start moving up. This means the sway bars are balanced left to right as the car leans. So if the rear right arm doesn't start moving up as you have pushed the rear left arm up a length of x, you adjust the length of the turnbuckle to get the sway bar to engage the arm either later or sooner.

Another way of doing it is , hold the car up and flip it upside down (again make sure shocks are off) for the rear of the car, push the rear right arm up so the droop screw hits the chassis. The rear left arm should move towards the chassis but have a bit of a gap between the droop screw and chassis. Do the same for left and right and try get the gap between the chassis and the droop screw the same for the opposite arms. If you need to reduce the gap for one side, lengthen the turn buckle (pushes arm closer to chassis) and shorten it to increase the gap. Exactly the same process for the front Oh and as far as the length of that turnbuckle, it should be pretty similar left to right given you've got a straight sway bar and the same slop in the ball cups left and right. The turnbuckle length will also need to be changed depending what sway bar you run and if you make a significant change to the amount of droop you're running.
Hope i was clear but I'm sure theres a better explanation/ tutorial somewhere that someone can point you towards !

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Ok thanks

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Could I run 2.5* of toe in the rear for 17.5 blinky on a med/high traction asphalt track. Will I get similar turn in compared to the 3* toe block in the rear. Also is HPI blues softer then the HPI silvers and the the kind of traction that I mentioned should I be running HPI silvers at all 4 corners.

Mr.juarez

iTrader: (37)

I ran the 3* stock block and was fine, put the 2.5 (1d ) was did not see a difference at all. I'm running tamiyas blue front and yellow rears. ( will have to double check on springs)

Start fresh with the manual set up and go from there. That's where mine is at minus the rear toe block. I think I could use a tad more on power steering, but ill try the gear diff this week with 600k.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

On the TRF works shocks, the cylinders are they the same as the TRF HF special dampers part #42131?

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Sorry I meant HL

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

From softest to hardest, the hpi springs go blue, silver, pink, gold.

-Mike

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

No, the car won't turn in as well, but yes I would definitely run 2.5 or 2 deg (X/D) of toe for 17.5 blinky.

Yes

That's far too light for your diff, start with 2-3k med grip asphalt. At RROC I ran 5k

The main difference changing from E to D block is less rear side bite. The car does not turn in as well but has more on power steering. I only use D block for bigger flowing tracks

macavant

iTrader: (65)

Is that for mod ? TIA.

Mr.juarez

iTrader: (37)

Good question.

Craig.

is 600k front diff a good start? Currently I have 2k rear diff oil, but some have suggested 1k. This weeks layout will be high flowing with small turns so I suppose I can out 3k. Also I'm running gt3 21.5 motors. I think I going to try 32.5 and 30 rear shock oils and I might come down one spring size as I traction rolled last week once.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Maybe a little lighter for softer motors but not much. I think I used 2k last time I ran 17.5 & it felt pretty good. Tuning the diff is about balancing turn-in and on-power grip and for me it's pretty rare to go outside the window of 2-4k for 80% of tracks

Arrr sorry I misread your post, I thought you were proposing 600cst rear diff.

Yes I think 600k is too light for the front, I always use putty. Maybe you could use 1mil or 2mil oil in 21.5. I have a suspicion the front diff will make traction roll worse as it will let the front roll deeper into the corner, see how you go I guess.

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

George my 417 traction rolled in both heats and in the bmain I missed the a main by 1 second and the traction roll was the killer. I thought it was my tire choice I was running 30's the car was too hooked up if I drove hard in any fast corner the car rolled over? I rolled it in the turn at the end of the straight in the first heat in the second heat I rolled it exiting the sweeper. In the B main while leading rolled it entering the turn at the end of the back straight. As fast as the guy's in 17.5 are you can't come back from any big mistakes. I have a front diff it still rolled so I can only hope I spray the track this week so the grip is not that high!lol

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Question Craig, what would a high roll center in front and a lower roll center in the rear do to the car. Also I'm running 1.5 of camber in front and 2 in the rear it handles fine but in blinky withers to high traction would 1.5 all around be better?

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

George I tried the 600k in the front gear diff and it gave me really no steering.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

George those smokem kits will be here by next Wed.