InitialD

They are used to pre camber the tires... I actually have not heard anyone using it.

Some are nice. Some are not. I know that the Titanium shafts (2 speed shaft and mid shaft) are pretty decent.

I would not trust aluminum pulleys. Stick to stock plastic. Aluminum would be hard on the belts as if the aluminum quality is not good, they get shapened after time and cut the belts easy. For sure, changing plastic pulleys is cheaper than changing belts.

InitialD

I learned this trick by accident... I use a 3 mm to lock the ball joint onto the stud on the arm. The stud does not protrude much. About 3 mm or so. After it's tightened, I unscrew the stud out of the arm using a 1.5 mm allen so that the stud comes out of the ball joint hole. This ensures that the ball joint gets more threading on the stud.

Hope that was understood as I posted a pic of it sometime back.

InitialD

You could polish the pivot pins. Put some dry graphite powder lube or like me I dab some silicone shock on the shafts... After a few rounds around the track, your car's suspension arms should be very smooth.

Looks like you're really on the roll building the 710 !

InitialD

Like you, I have stopped using thread lock anywhere (except grub screws on the aluminum pulley adaptors) including engine mounts. I just make sure I tighten them real hard.

InitialD

I only used the aluminum part that comes with the upper graphite bumper top plate that goes to hold the grub screws for the front droop. I cut the stock plastic bumper top plate so that they are detached from the front bulkhead. The graphite part of the bumper top plate is too nice too use !

InitialD

Sorry. I really cannot help you there. Where are you planning to get yours? If you're going to get it from your LHS, let the owner have you take a peek at what's inside the box.

The thicker rear shock tower should be of different design (see a pic I posted not too long ago). The flywheel is now black anodised. As for the rear bottom arms, no idea but like cox49 mentioned, the updated lower and upper bumper brace is already out in US. As to how those parts look like, no idea.

InitialD

Great minds... Fools never...

InitialD

I don't think there's a 710R anytime soon. Julius and even Pieter mentioned about it.

If there are any upgrades to the parts, it would be a running change of the current parts to make them better.

InitialD

That's a smart way. If anyone remembered, I actually asked this question to Julius (not knowing at that time that he does not work for Serpent ) when the 710 just came out about the batch numbers below the box which has the weight of the contents and some numbering and alphabets printed. I asked what those numbers meant and somebody chided to say that was utterly waste of time to know what it meant !

Perhaps it's good to bring that subject up again and probably have people like Rene C answer it.

Brett.w

here are some pics of some option parts for the 710

The diff is much smoother than the standard

Brett.w

InitialD

I don't think there is any difference with regards to how the weight of the car is located with the location of the rear bottom arm. If there is, it's probably very insignificant.

Higher RC in the rear makes the rear part resist rolling. The apparent result would make the rear loose and your car will have more steering.

Try it out and you'll know what I mean. I tried it once following what Michael did in Thailand and the rear of the car was loose at the local track I tried on.

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

I am not in too big of a hurry to get another 710, so we will see how impatient I get. And you know they wouldnt tell us if they did have the R kits since they need time to sell off old stock.

InitialD

Voodo_Magic, looks good ! Let us know how the diff runs and how reliable it is. Also check on the rear belt to see how the aluminum diff pulley treats it.

Brett.w

N probs D youll be the first to know