hanulec

iTrader: (28)

those are good options. i've also been using the XXX Main book, and then the Setup Workbench app(s) from Martin Crisp. the theories are *mostly* right w/in the book/app -- but you'll always want to test the specific settings for yourself.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

After a couple weeks of working on the cars we have found a nice baseline setup that feels good, is fast, and most of the drivers can get there head around. If it works for anyone that is great..

http://youtu.be/zOexqCdY3SA

RC Professor

iTrader: (17)

I can't seem to read the downstop and comments sections as the text is small, but other than that, it looks good. Mind listing those? Thanks.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I have a question in regards to setting the dampers, in your experience is this normal for the awesomatix to have more rate in the rear?

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

6 on hudy blocks measured at the end of the arm on the carbon flat bottom

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

From what I have seen and from how the car is working I have to say yes that seems to be the case. I know on Gee, and Burt's setups from the birds they both tend to be similar. Not sure if the calculation is correct as the pdf does that automatically.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Ok, thanks for responding.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

This looks suspiciously a lot like my snowbirds setup

Yes. Pretty much all touring cars are softer in the front than the rear. Some guys run a softer rear than the front, but I think you need a very particular driving style for that.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Man i'm all messed up. All of my TC setups with other brands I usually like more dampening up front. To be honest I've never tried it any other way, maybe that's why i'm slightly slower than everyone else. Never too old to learn I suppose.

JayL

You probably never took into account the leverage difference, front and rear, shock mounting point on arm and angle. I bet if you measured your setups they would be softer in front, just thicker fluid and or spring

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I do, I generally aim for a stiffer front setup. This is good information because it really did never occur to me to go the other way.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

It should that was the best start point of the setups I could find. I needed a little more linear rear of the car for a base. And having some more camber gain and toe with less caster helped that a lot. I was not really any faster or slower just more neutral which makes for me a much better base setup to work from.



Having a base neutral setup was the hardest part I found about the coming to the Evo from other chassis. Unlike most others we don't have a book setup to start from. So from the outside looking in everybody is drastically in different directions. Hell we don't even really have a manual to build it from. lol

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

The thing to realize is that just because the shocks were the same front to rear on a typical car did not mean the damping and spring rates were the same, due to the cars geometry. The same oil and spring f/r on a typical car would have less spring and damping in the front. With our car being the same geometry f/r, the front requires a softer setup to make the same feeling. You would have to run significantly stiffer in the front than the rear on a typical car to even make the front stiffness close to the rear.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

+1

jamminjim

iTrader: (6)

So with all this setup talk, has anyone found a setup guide for this car? It would be a handy document to have at the track. If there isn't one maybe you should all create one as a sticky here. It would do all of us a lot of good.