6376vette

Sounds like we are racing very similar conditions. I'm indoor carpet med to high grip. Track temps have been 65 to 70 this winter. Guess we can compare set up notes.

The 10th will be my first time out. ill be sure to report.

maybe my o rings are a little dry and need to swell up a little. I will keep an eye on them.

racer robert

iTrader: (3)

My shocks have leaked like crazy since new. Ordered rebuild kits and while putting new rings in I think I noticed the problem. There is a Sharp flashing on the spacer that goes between the o rings. I never noticed it before since that part of the shock is already assembled. I think the o ring was hanging up on that flashing. Once cleaned up the shocks seem to seal better but I won't know for sure until I drive it again.

6376vette

Ill look at mine. keep me posted on how they are working.

aarcobra

iTrader: (12)

Got to try my FXG today. Sunny skies and temps near 60, great weather for December for this racer from Ohio!

Car was running good with 21.5 and 2s. Tried some Tamiya grooved med tires I had for my 201 and they were pretty good. Car really accellerates well, rear end is hooked. Need to work on balance to imprrove high speed steering as it pushes a bit and turns a bit much when slow.

My CF rod reinforced a-arms held up with no problems and the 64 to 48 counter gear mod worked but the screw on the outboard end came out and caused the gears to skip hard accel. Gonna try the 3r speed gears next week.

There was quite a bit of interest, we may get this going again down here yet!!
Even from a couple of oval racers!!!

Now I gotta get brave and paint some bodies!!!

Ned

hkbruin

iTrader: (1)

Sigh**** So i broke both upper front A arms today. Needless to say the car runs pretty straight when both of them are evenly broken

I fixed one with super glue, but the other one is not holding up. wrapped it with electrical tape after CA glueing... Gonna have to re-inforce it with the carbon strips like everyone else.... So is 3 Racing going to make re-inforced arms like Tamiya did with the F201, or perhaps a retrofit? Going out to buy all of the parts to convert it to the to turnbuckle arms seems like a hassle... and hard to find the parts..

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Drove mine for the first time today, box stock. It pushes bad at speed. I can see the inside front wheel hopping around high speed corners because the rear end is too soft. It makes the car really unpredictable as it slows down and suddenly has a ton of steering. This car needs a lot more rear spring. I am running Ride Medium Slicks all the way around to get packs through the car and get the feel for it and not have to replace tires every week. Probably good thinking, but after 2 packs the casting ring hasn't even begun to wear off. They do have very good traction. My camber gauge tells me the front is -2*. I loosened everything up and tried to get it to move. No dice. I ran it anyway. I ran the small 35 tooth spur and 34 pinion. I should have gone a couple teeth lower on the pinion for our smallish 66 x 32 high bite carpet track. The car was still accelerating a the end of the straight. Temp ended up in the 145* to 155* range over 4 runs, a little high for my taste. Timing was left at factory on the motor. The TP 21.5 runs really well. The car does accelerate well once its under control, but you feel like you are wrecking in every corner first.

Break 1. Tapped the outside wall lightly after the front end broke loose. Broken kingpin. Inverted the kingpins as recommended.

Break 2. Tried to compensate for the push by turning in a little early. Well a little too early: tap the inside rail breaking upper and lower right, flip, slide upside down and into the outer rail breaking the left upper. Only the left side lower DID NOT break. Everyone at the track was watching and stated that the driver was decapitated in the crash (I didn't put the head on because the paint I tried using ran and had to be stripped back off).

Break 3. Upper rear arm trying to get out of someone's way. Just sad.

I smiled the whole time. Even though it was handful, it was still different and fun. Then I pulled out the F103 on foams and rocketed around for a few dozen laps ending with a traction roll pirouette spin and tail flip off the track. No damage

P.S I did keep the upper and lower aluminum ball inserts from the arms to see If I can find anything they might snap into and be useful at the hobby shop.

hkbruin

iTrader: (1)

I added lead weights to the nose piece to keep the front down. Makes a big difference!

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I'll give that a try. I'm sure I'm not up to weight.

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

x2


I noticed running mine with hpi soft/soft it was hooked but low speed turning could have been better and tossed on the sway bar for the rear with the smallest size bar. Car turns much better now and has a super positive feel behind it, but its hopping real hard. Have 7k in the diff and 25wt oil in rear shocks, -1.5 degrees camber rear and -1 front. Im thinking that going to a medium tire for the rear will cure this hop its developing at speed causing some traction rolls.


Also are the titanium coated king pins any stronger or just keep rocking stockers?

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

Also whats this 64p conversion?

miller tyme

iTrader: (5)

Ran mine last week for the the second time against 2 well set up 109's on foam, I could just about keep up despite using rubber tires, the car pushed like a dump truck and severely lifted the inside front. The traction was very high on an indoor carpet due to it being a huge event. I determined to the problem was the outer front tire biting and since the rear was planted so well the chassis would twist at the top deck where the front is attached. After trying thicket oil and actually running positive rear camber I resigned to make a new chassis. out with the FRP and plastic top deck, in with 2mm carbon fiber. I also wanted better ground clearance so I flipped the lower mount to the bottom deck.

Here is an in process pic, I may get time to test it some today, but no F1's to run against. but if it carves a corner without hiking the inside, I'll call it a success

pejota

iTrader: (12)

WOW!

Now that is awesome.

How'd you make/design/cut the upper deck? I'm always into making my own (and what i think are better) pieces.

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

I think I've solved the broke arm issue... Two full days of racing which included some hard hits and no sign of breaking.... just followed what someone else here posted a while back... piano wire shoe gooed to reinforce the arms... did it to the upper and lower arms... this also added weight up front which helps...

Also polished the king pins and the aluminum pivot balls the pins go through... they seem to want to grab a little, thought that might have caused some front end bounce...

went to a Tamiya F201 very stiff spring for the back and 65 weight oil.... had to shorten the black shock shaft cover tube to compensate for the longer spring....

running a 21.5 motor, 35 spur with a 32 pinion for carpet and a 36 pinion for asphalt...

Shimizu threaded F10 tires... soft front and rear.... car is very competitive with the 104's...

racer robert

iTrader: (3)

Another thing to try to eliminate the front end hop is gluing the sidewalls of the tires. I tried a few chassis adjustments to get rid of the hop but nothing I did was very effective. Then I glued the sidewalls and the hop disappeared.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

Ian was telling me about your car. I wish I could have been there in person. I have to agree on the rear end being planted. I don't think there is really a bad tire choice for indoor once you get some heat into it. I like your top deck idea. I was thinking the same thing, but couldn't get past losing the caster adjustment. With upper and lower links, problem solved. It would just need something to raise and lower the front ride height while keeping the front spring in the same place.