got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

Alright man... I can use some direction please Not sure if this thread is the right place but I got one of these with this in it...

What is the MMM castle link setting that lays the most power down? What is the timing for the most power? What is the setting for gradual braking, pushing more brake to get more brake? Right now I just tap the brake and the thing throws out all the fricking brake possible, it's very annoying! Why can't this thing be easy like a Nitro?

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Not a big CC fan here. But I have seen a couple MMM GT8 cars that fly. These heavy cars do not like a lot of timing so be careful there. I play with the punch/amp/current control to get the torque under control. That has little affect on top speed because power is laid down better. Keep in mind that these big powerful cars are very easy to overheat and blow/burn stuff up. To get the most power you work with # of cells, gearing and big fans primarily.

Be sure you have the latest CC software and firmware installed. Make absolutely certain that the calibration of the esc is correct with your Tx. You should not need anything close to full brake strength in your software either. Dial back the Tx brake end point/ATV/travel on the track til you can push full brake at high speed without locking up the wheels/tires. If the brakes are still too sensitive(on/off switch) then I would suspect FET trouble with the MMM.

Hope this helps with your issues.

rsgonza

iTrader: (30)

Can I used a mamba max pro on 4 cell running a 2650 kmotor.the specs on the mmp are up to 6c but the wires are really small.
Is anyone running this combo.
This is on a gtpe.btw

got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for all that! Turns out I fingered it out.. All I had to do was to switch one of the ESC wires with another.... The distructions clearly said it didnt matter what wire was plugged into the ESC, any config. would have worked, well apparently not. The thing is a rocket now, can't wait for all that CF!

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can use the MMP but only on 4S or less as you stated. Two guys used that set up with CC 2650KV motor for a whole season and they were fast on our big track. Not sure about wires, but would guess they were stock.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

That is strange. On non sensored stuff switching wires is only suppose to reverse the rotation direction.

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

That's what i was thinking, never seen a power issue with the wires mixed up. Just reverses polarity thus the motor direction.

got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

Thats exactly what I was thinking too, I didn't expect it to do anything differenty.

I read that the Futaba needed to be switched to reverse. Well, after doing that the ESC would not program. I switched it back to normal and it would program. I noticed that reverse had more power and I could actually brake slowly in reverse on a box (wheels in the air)... After swapping a wire with another, I switched the RX back to reverse and I had front controlled brake. Go figure, beats the shit out of me too....

As I said, why cant they make these things as easy as tuning a Nitro engine?

Thanks for the help gentlemen

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

Electric is much easier to tune than nitro. Once you find a sweet spot, you shouldn't have to change it ever again. Nitro takes almost daily tinkering when the weather changes etc. to keep it optimal. In my experience anyways.

got_nitro

iTrader: (24)

The thing about electric from my stand point is it either works or it does not. Nitro will run with a bad tune, good tune, great tune, rich tune, lean tune ETC.. From there it's just a matter of a good ear and a screw driver For me I know right away with Nitro what needs to be done, with electric it's hard to know what's really going on even after following the manual and still nothing working.....

It still makes no sense to me how or why it's working. According to the makers manual it wouldn't. I'm just happy it does.

808TXT1

iTrader: (6)

got everything installed with my GTP2E. Using the BL set up that come in the Kyosho Mad Force..but using the 14T pinion...car is slow on 4s. So after talking with a buddy of mine who has one himself..I decided to order some new pinions. Got 18-23T from rcmonster. Gonna wait till that comes in...see how she runs and then if I have to..order a 2650KV motor. But I think should be better with the higher pinions.

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

When they work they are awesome. i came from fiddling with a nitro in a Revo for almost a year (the 3.3 and then a Picco .26) before swapping to Electric everything. Wont own another nitro myself.

But im sure theres a thread for that... lol

Im still really thinking of Long chassis converting my GTP2e, just as a basher generally i dont know if i want to use a Carbon chassis...

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Here's a good application to play with for gearing/speed. Use diff ratio of 3.31, transmission ratio 1, lipo voltage of 3.7-3.8 and a tire diameter~3.8". Play with the pinion size til you get a good top speed. With 2650 and a 21-22t pinion speed is good. Good fans required on motor and esc. It is pretty accurate, verified with a Stalker gun.

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

Monteman

iTrader: (16)

Can you "bash" the SnR graphite chassis?
I dont race on prepped surfaces, just parking lots and streets.
Really thinking about picking up the long chassis for my GTP2e but dont want to drop the money if small rocks and such are just gonna destroy the chassis.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Some bashers will cut the chassis at the rear and add an aluminum extension to convert to a GT2 wheel base. A 114mm rear drive dogbone will be needed.

You can help preserve a cf chassis by sanding/filing round all edges of the cf then use thin ca to prevent delamination, ca the countersunk holes and finally get some chassis protection self adhesive film. Rocks and stones may still cut through the chassis protection film if so seal the gashes with thin ca. I found that a Qtip works great for applying the ca. You can also paint all edges before you ca them to add bling.