Bob Stormer, scratch built Monster Project.
#46
Servo arm:
This was more involved than it looks. 1/8" aluminum, 3mm metric hardware to hold it to the original Hitec servo horn (I like small metric stuff, more teeth per inch). Studs for the rod ends are 3/16" or 10-32.
For scale, I tossed a 1/12th scale servo in the one photo.
This was more involved than it looks. 1/8" aluminum, 3mm metric hardware to hold it to the original Hitec servo horn (I like small metric stuff, more teeth per inch). Studs for the rod ends are 3/16" or 10-32.
For scale, I tossed a 1/12th scale servo in the one photo.
#47
Decent idea and was kind of where the initial build was going. Couldn't find super skinny fronts and that about ended that. Plus, I really want to show of the cage when it's done and be able to drive it with the body off. I suppose I'm from the Indian Larry way of thinking where I like to celebrate and embrace the look of mechanical things, not hide them.
#49
Front suspension:
First pic is the start of a tie-rod. I came really close to welding nuts on them, but it took away some of the clean and limited the amount of space for the shocks. Tie-rods ended up being about 6.5" long. I welded 3/16 nuts to the hollow tubing. Smallest thinnest items I've welded in a while. All the shock pics are mock ups. I'm still up in the air as to whether I'm going to mount them to the lower or upper arms. The'yre more correct on the lower arms, but look better on the upper arms as they tie into the upper frame, sort of ties it all together better. AND, it's getting heavy. I'd have more opportunity for weight loading if the shock were further out on the upper arm.
First pic is the start of a tie-rod. I came really close to welding nuts on them, but it took away some of the clean and limited the amount of space for the shocks. Tie-rods ended up being about 6.5" long. I welded 3/16 nuts to the hollow tubing. Smallest thinnest items I've welded in a while. All the shock pics are mock ups. I'm still up in the air as to whether I'm going to mount them to the lower or upper arms. The'yre more correct on the lower arms, but look better on the upper arms as they tie into the upper frame, sort of ties it all together better. AND, it's getting heavy. I'd have more opportunity for weight loading if the shock were further out on the upper arm.
Last edited by Bob-Stormer; 01-11-2010 at 04:34 PM.
#51
Front suspension:
Front shocks are mocked up. I think they're going to end up on the upper arms, so I can push the lower end out to support more weight. Thing is getting heavy.
It looks almost ready to run. I bet it's not 1/3 done. I think it's like framing up a garage or a house. That first day when the walls and rafters go up makes it seem like you'll be done in about 3 days... 2 months later, you have it licked.
Front shocks are mocked up. I think they're going to end up on the upper arms, so I can push the lower end out to support more weight. Thing is getting heavy.
It looks almost ready to run. I bet it's not 1/3 done. I think it's like framing up a garage or a house. That first day when the walls and rafters go up makes it seem like you'll be done in about 3 days... 2 months later, you have it licked.
#52
Front suspension:
Video of movement. Everything is still kind of loose, but it gives an idea of what it's likely to be doing. Looks like 2.5" of travel. Very little if any bumpsteer. Tie rod and suspension arms are similar in length.
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Video of movement. Everything is still kind of loose, but it gives an idea of what it's likely to be doing. Looks like 2.5" of travel. Very little if any bumpsteer. Tie rod and suspension arms are similar in length.
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+ YouTube Video | |
Last edited by Bob-Stormer; 02-12-2010 at 11:09 PM.
#56
Killer work Bob!
Indian Larry was the man. I agree that I like to see the 'workings' of machines.
Keep the progress up and the pics coming.
Indian Larry was the man. I agree that I like to see the 'workings' of machines.
Keep the progress up and the pics coming.
#57
Rear swing arm:
Wasn't sure what I was going to do here. Because the sprocket is so big there is no clear way to connect the 2 sides of the swing arm. Ended up with 2 rods across the back to clear the sprocket. Made it pretty stiff. Not as stiff as I'd like, but stiff. Also, 20" out from the pivot point of the swing arm, the sprung weight of the back is about 20 pounds. That's without body, no cage, no mechanicals for the shocks or mounts, no batterys. That's a LOT of weight to add. I'm of the impression that the little Integy shocks won't have the spring power necessary to hold up the car and get me the kind of travel I want. When I hit the brakes, I want the car to really unload the back with lot's of movement, monster truck style. That requires pre-loading a soft spring with lots of travel. I have some ideas.
Wasn't sure what I was going to do here. Because the sprocket is so big there is no clear way to connect the 2 sides of the swing arm. Ended up with 2 rods across the back to clear the sprocket. Made it pretty stiff. Not as stiff as I'd like, but stiff. Also, 20" out from the pivot point of the swing arm, the sprung weight of the back is about 20 pounds. That's without body, no cage, no mechanicals for the shocks or mounts, no batterys. That's a LOT of weight to add. I'm of the impression that the little Integy shocks won't have the spring power necessary to hold up the car and get me the kind of travel I want. When I hit the brakes, I want the car to really unload the back with lot's of movement, monster truck style. That requires pre-loading a soft spring with lots of travel. I have some ideas.
#58
Rear suspension:
Rear suspension movement test. Everything lines up well, lot's of travel potential, and everything is very square and tight.
Rear suspension movement test. Everything lines up well, lot's of travel potential, and everything is very square and tight.
+ YouTube Video | |
#59
Rear suspension shock mod:
The little shocks won't work. I ended up using a fox mountain bike shock. They have notoriously heavy springs. This one is quite light, at 400 pounds. To get the travel I want, and support the estimated weight, I suspect it needs to be 1.75-2" out from the pivot point of the swing arm. So, here's the new mount and the modded swing arm to compensate. The bar in the second pic was welded to the front of the swing arm and is now the lower shock mount for the rear.
The little shocks won't work. I ended up using a fox mountain bike shock. They have notoriously heavy springs. This one is quite light, at 400 pounds. To get the travel I want, and support the estimated weight, I suspect it needs to be 1.75-2" out from the pivot point of the swing arm. So, here's the new mount and the modded swing arm to compensate. The bar in the second pic was welded to the front of the swing arm and is now the lower shock mount for the rear.
#60
I have used those shocks before and they are sprung really heavy.