Thistle

I'm looking at getting a .21 engine for my Xray XB8 (when it arrives). I would like some feedback (good & bad) on these possible engines:
Fantom
FR21 engine part# FAN01030
Sirio Engines (Trinity)
S21BK Kanai engine part# ???
O.S. Engines
VZ-B (P) .21 engine part# 13886
RG .21 engine part# 13611

Also, has anybody tried these Werks Racing Clutches? Are they worth the money? What's the difference in the shoe material?

Werks racing carbon clutch part# WRX6501
Werks racing roulon clutch part# WRX6502
Werks racing teflon clutch part# WRX6503

Any info would be appreciated.

colinradford

Might be worth looking at the RB line of engines as well, they are excellent.

I have a Sirio Kanai which is a great engine but is a major PITA to break in. I have probably put 40 tanks through it and you still can't turn it past TDC by hand without a glow plug in when the engine is cold. Preheating with a hair dryer works fine but isn't practical where we race (in a field). Don't get me wrong, with that much pinch it should last for ever but it can be frustrating at times, I'll be glad when it loosens up some more! Once you have got the engine started it really rips! Great bottom and top end. Very reliable too, I don't think it has flamed out once.

Aaron Waldron

The Sirio engines are really strong when it comes to power, and should last for quite a long time. They will have lots of pinch for quite a while. More and more of the big time racers seem to be switching to Sirio's engines.

How did you break yours in? The heat cycle method?

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

i highly recommend the RB concepts S7 II i recently got one and its a screamer

my old engine was a nova P5 also a great engine it was a little flat on the top end but had incredible bottom end power

the S7 2 isnt quite as strong on bottom end but it has alot more top end power ive been told the S7 2 is the same as the old WS7

i had bad luck with my OS engine a vo1b it was fast but wasnt good on fuel and blew up 2 times

if i had to pick a motor off your list it would be the sirio kanai

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

just saw your question about werks clutches i liked the idea but was too chicken to spend the money

glad i was too since i was told it tightens itself up and causes some problems

i have heard alot of good stuff about the fioroni sliding clutches though

colinradford

Yep, I heat cycled it for 4 tanks and then drove it at moderate speeds for another 6 letting it cool right down between tanks.

Aaron Waldron

And how long have you run it since then? Every one of the .21 motors I've seen has taken almost a full gallon to loosen up.

colinradford

It has run about 30 tanks since then which I guess is about a gallon. I know it will loosen up eventually but we only race 1/8th scale every 3 weeks so it might be a while. I don't mind it being tight mostly but I have missed the occasional heat where it has not wanted to start, I'm begining to learn the routine it wants to start now!

1) Gently blow fuel through to the carb (I have a clean piece of tube I use).

2) Turn it over with no plug in until it turns fairly easily

3) Plug in, idle up 26% on the radio, plug out 1 turn

4) Connect glow start and fire it up, usually starts

5) Tighten up plug, let it idle for a few seconds then set idle trim back to 0 and off we go!

After this now the engine is warm it will fire up with one touch of the starter wheel.

Occasionally between 1-4 the piston sticks at TDC and I have to free it by levering the flywheel with a screwdriver.

The engine does seem to run fairly hot though (I assume because it is tight so more friction).

Aaron Waldron

The engines I've seen do run hot, but have no problems with durability even with the higher temperatures.

Sounds like a pretty detailed procedure to fire it up..haha. Try using a hair dryer to heat up the case and head before starting the engine. It'll help when it comes to turning the engine over.

Also, you can simply place your finger over the stinger and turn the engine over on the starter box to pump fuel into the engine instead of manually blowing into the tank.

Thistle

Thanks everyone.

colinradford

Thanks for your advice Aaron, I apreciate it.

Pre-heating with a dryer works a treat and I did it for the first running in tanks. Unfortunately our track is in a farmers field so there is no electricity. I guess I could get a butane burner or something but I wouldn't feel comfortable messing wrong with a naked flame in the middle of an expensive buggy!

I can do that when it is warm but when cold it will turn over between 1 and 10 times before the piston sticks at TDC. So I like to have fuel in there ready for it to fire which hopefully means less hassle.

I guess I'll find out tonight, we have a 1/8th race today.

Aaron Waldron

Hehe..looks like you got everything figured out then :-)

Good luck with everything..it's a great engine. And I'm always here if you have any questions.

rcman1

Guys Atomic Hobbies has the TOP 421B for $295.99 You can check them out at www.atomichobbies.com or call 1-888-44-Atomic

beetlebz

i dont know if your engine is different from the CVs but..

i found myself a syringe like the type used for feeding small animals and the like. i fill er with nitro, pull off the air cleaner and drop a few drops of nitro into the carb. put the air cleaner back on and she fires up almost every time!

colinradford

Never thought of that, we've got some baby medicene syringes, I might give it a try!

Quick update on my progress! Last night went pretty well, the engine is noticeably looser but still does stick at TDC but its not as tight to free any more. For heat 2 it fired up as soon as the starter hit the flywheel, without performing any of my starting ritual. Heat 3 it made me work a bit again though! Clutch seized 12 minutes into the final, so I finished 8th in the A, haven't taken it apart yet to see what the problem is.