Motor tuning for a newbie........
#31
Tech Fanatic
Easy one! it's personal choice, you won't see a performance gain from either.
#32
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by edseb
Yeah, your biggest and most important purchase is a good motor lathe. You will have to have some way to get power and adjust the speed too. A lot of guys just use old cells in a 4 cell configuration. I also paid extra and got a diamond bit for my lathe; they don't come with it (a carbide bit usually comes with it), but it will last much longer than carbide and will cut better. You can use that same 4 cell pack to break in the motor too. If you are just starting out, polishing the bushings isn't as critical, but using the right brushes, aligning the hoods, etc. is. My advice is to also get a good soldering iron. You want really good bonds (no cold solders), and that iron is even more critical when you get to your batteries. Hako makes great ones, and there are others. Expect to pay about $75+ for a good iron. Good luck.
#33
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by odawg315
i find it much easier to just pay my hobby shop $5 to cut the com, i do everthing else myself. also i dont even solder, i just tuck my brush wires right in the lip that holds the spring in, much neater, easier and never had a problem.
#34
He tucks his shunt "brush wire" where? That's to funny. I have nothing else to say, I can't my stomach hurts from laughing.
#35
can anyone share your experience of tuning a modified motor?
#36
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by dmatter
Don't do This!
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
He tucks his shunt "brush wire" where? That's to funny. I have nothing else to say, I can't my stomach hurts from laughing.
#37
no difference in performance, are you doing anything w/ the brush tensions? Becouse where you describe putting the shunt will definitly increase tension thus changing the "tune" of the motor.
Not soldering the shunt, well anyone would agree that's wrong, a soldered joint is much more efficient than just letting the springs tension account for a good joint!
How many motors have you Tuned? Paying a shop $5 to cut your comm. is borderline moronic, if you are such a profound Tuner than you must have cut comms what, at least 50 times? humm, if you have payed your shop $5 only 32 time you could have bought your own Cobra lathe w/ a diamond bit.
Now see you could of have save $100 or more by now lol, could have used $10 to buy a cheap soldering iron, And we wouldn't even be having this convo!!!
As for the pointed head comment, I'll pardon that for now, as not to turn this thread into a flaming contest!
Now to defend my post to you, your post was so absurd that I truly thought you were kidding, thus my laughing comment.
Not soldering the shunt, well anyone would agree that's wrong, a soldered joint is much more efficient than just letting the springs tension account for a good joint!
How many motors have you Tuned? Paying a shop $5 to cut your comm. is borderline moronic, if you are such a profound Tuner than you must have cut comms what, at least 50 times? humm, if you have payed your shop $5 only 32 time you could have bought your own Cobra lathe w/ a diamond bit.
Now see you could of have save $100 or more by now lol, could have used $10 to buy a cheap soldering iron, And we wouldn't even be having this convo!!!
As for the pointed head comment, I'll pardon that for now, as not to turn this thread into a flaming contest!
Now to defend my post to you, your post was so absurd that I truly thought you were kidding, thus my laughing comment.
Last edited by DinoXXX; 07-19-2005 at 11:49 AM.
#39
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
no difference in performance, are you doing anything w/ the brush tensions? Becouse where you describe putting the shunt will definitly increase tension thus changing the "tune" of the motor.
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
Not soldering the shunt, well anyone would agree that's wrong, a soldered joint is much more efficient than just letting the springs tension account for a good joint!
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
How many motors have you Tuned? Paying a shop $5 to cut your comm. is borderline moronic, if you are such a profound Tuner than you must have cut comms what, at least 50 times? humm, if you have payed your shop $5 only 32 time you could have bought your own Cobra lathe w/ a diamond bit.
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
Now see you could of have save $100 or more by now lol, could have used $10 to buy a cheap soldering iron, And we wouldn't even be having this convo!!!
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
Now to defend my post to you, your post was so absurd that I truly thought you were kidding, thus my laughing comment.
Originally Posted by kerry
odawg
him advertising his business must have worked, i got you to read and comment on it. all advertising is good no matter where it is.
him advertising his business must have worked, i got you to read and comment on it. all advertising is good no matter where it is.
#40
...or you could just send your motors to me and I'll rebuild and tune 'em for free!
Yup, that's right. Just pay the postage and I'll do it!
Randy
Yup, that's right. Just pay the postage and I'll do it!
Randy
#41
Does somebody need a cookie?
#42
daveb4edm, you have a PM
#43
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by DinoXXX
Does somebody need a cookie?
#44
Wow, what maturity. I only hope anyone seeking info here, can see what kinda guy you are and NOT do anything you say.
#45
Stop it already, fellas. You're starting to sound like 2nd graders on the playground. Let's all be adults and get back to discussing how to tune motors for newbies...
What are we fighting about, anyways? Whether soldering a brush shunt makes a difference or not? This is a quote from Big Jim, who, in my mind, is the motor man of motor men.
"The single shunt wire is only rated at 10A anyway so it really doesn't matter where you put it as long as it doesn't hang the brush.
It's much more important to keep the inside of the brush hoods exceptionally clean than worry about a shunt wire."
Did you know you could just cut the shunts off and not attach them whatsoever? Or leave them hanging? This is simply a matter of preference. We could sit down and measure everything on a dyno, whether soldered or not, and I imagine the results would only differ slightly. I, for one, prefer to solder my shunts. Some may just like to attach them to the spring-hooky-thing. Some use the screw-on type.
If it works for you, and is fast on the track, then AWESOME! Mission accomplished...
What are we fighting about, anyways? Whether soldering a brush shunt makes a difference or not? This is a quote from Big Jim, who, in my mind, is the motor man of motor men.
"The single shunt wire is only rated at 10A anyway so it really doesn't matter where you put it as long as it doesn't hang the brush.
It's much more important to keep the inside of the brush hoods exceptionally clean than worry about a shunt wire."
Did you know you could just cut the shunts off and not attach them whatsoever? Or leave them hanging? This is simply a matter of preference. We could sit down and measure everything on a dyno, whether soldered or not, and I imagine the results would only differ slightly. I, for one, prefer to solder my shunts. Some may just like to attach them to the spring-hooky-thing. Some use the screw-on type.
If it works for you, and is fast on the track, then AWESOME! Mission accomplished...