Trippin Freddy

a spool is basically a diff that can't move. you can buy them as solid axles, or make them with you existing diff (by locking the diff really really tightly, or pinning it so the hubs can't rotate, or whatever other method). the solid axle type i assume would last forever, not ahving any moving parts, not so sure about the 'home made' type. I haven't used one so i can't tell you the pros & cons, but i know they can be very very fast when used in the right circumstances

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

the homemade steel ones will last almost forever, ive used this setup for months now and i cant even see any signs of wear, i am also using pin cushions on the cvd bones.

sup

so in what circumstances do you typically use a spool? is that the same as a locked diff? thanks in advance!

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

rdub202, the new one-way's have larger bearings in them. They look like Yokomo's H.D. unit. So with the bigger one-way piece the gear needs a larger center hole so it can slide over the one-way. Hope that made sense.

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Heard a rumor from my lhs that there is a TC4 in the works, scheduled for around September. Any truth to that? Heard it was going to have revised front and rear hubs as well as some other chassis changes.


Thanks,

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I asked Cliff Lett of Associated about that at the Reedy Race. If he was being honest with me, don't expect to see a TC4 anytime soon. R&D is still going on, but you're more likely to see modified parts and hopups than a new kit

Mike D

The TC3's were mostly bone stock at the onroad nats. Even Cyrul's car had stock parts on it.

barnacle

iTrader: (9)

dork

racerdx6

I think that a spool would pretty much last for ever. I don't know how you would break one, unless you had a spool made out of some plastic or something and you broke the outdrive part of it. But when you install a spool you durability on some drive chain components will go down. I've heard people of breaking many more things with a spool or one way installed.

Hooked

Aku-Man

Is IRS graphite chassis moved the batteries closer to the center? Or only Warpspeed Demon did that?

HARLEY

Aku-Man as far as I know, warpspeed is the only car that moved the batteries closer to the center, from my experience being a warpspeed demon owner, the car works!

noline

Hey Mike D, can you post your setup and gearing from the roar onroad nats I would greatly appreciate it .

dirtman

I was thinking of adding Unobtainium shafts to my shocks. Will I notice a difference? I've been spoiled by my Tamiya TA04 TRF dampners (very smooth) and the TC3 aluminum shocks are just not at that level.

Thanks,

Robert

Mike D

Front: .063 sway bar, 40wt, #2, red springs, tc3 front shock tower, shock mount out on tower/in on arm, camber link up and long, 4 caster, 1.5 camber, losi steering blocks, no bump shims, standard ackerman, F-0 block, 5mm ride height, 6 droop

Rear: .063 sway bar, 30wt, #2, silver springs, tc3 rear tower, shock mount middle on tower/out on arm, camber link up and short on tower - upper position on hub, long wheelbase, R-2-0 block, 1.5 camber, 5.5mm ride height, 4 droop

Protoform Alfa 2.0, Batteries forward, chassis cut to move bateries towards center, IRS spool in front and IRS aluminum diff in rear, IRS aluminum dogbones w/ pin cushions, Handout tires, SMC GP3300, 38/98 gear, MVP handout (767 and stock springs)

This was my best(fastest) setup for the heat of the day. I changed my setup for the cooler track temperatures on Saturday. Saturday's setup worked well in the first main but wasn't as good for the 2nd and 3rd main.