FauxMako

You might want a spool in the front, but no FOW on a race chassis. You want the brakes. Having the front free wheel makes the rear have to supply all the braking.

Valentin.H

iTrader: (117)

i've been looking around...what's the v3 motor mount? I can only find v2

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

Picks of new hardware and body ( again )

capnkids

The version 3 vertical motor mount is SAK-S17/PK.

It has the other side of the spur gear mount in aluminum included and the top motor mount hole arm included on a separate part that you bolt onto the main mount. All 3 pieces (the spur mount, the top hole arm, and the main vertical mount) are included in that part number.

I got mine at TQRCRacing.com

Hope this helps.

cygnusx1

Looks nice Metalsoft.

cygnusx1

I just checked the corner weights and found it to be way out. After some careful shimming, I got the fronts to within 5 grams of eachother, and the rears to within 30 grams. The rear was off by around 140 grams! That explains the two bald tires; left rear, and right front.

Should be better now.

Speed Passion

Greetings to you all,

This is a great thread and I appreciate everyone's input.

I had a belt tension question. I will be using a high KV motor; 5700. The Front pulley is 38t as is the rear, and the spur pulley has been switched to the 19t to allow for less tension as many have stated is ideal.

Where would you set the belt tension, is it still to be set to the manual's setting or is there a different setting to be set to?

Thank you in advance!

cygnusx1

It's weird that I just built my S bone stock, and had no issues with too much, or too little belt tension. I wonder if the newer kits have been updated?

When setting belts, any belts, I like to make them just tight enough that they don't slip or skip. Any tighter and you are wasting energy and bearings. Just make sure you come back and check them as they stretch.

FauxMako

cygnusx1 has it. Tight enough that it won't slip. Loose enough that it doesn't add any friction. The belt should move up and down a couple of mm in the middle.

Speed Passion

Mine is not stock. I have changed the rear stock drive pulley from 20t to the 19t. Would you then just adjust one tooth on the bearing cam to compensate or set it to the stock settings? Is that setting appropriate for a high KV motor?

Thank you in advance.

Speed Passion

That is what I wanted to know!!! Thank you!! and with that setting, it will be fine with a high KV motor?

Thank you.

FauxMako

My understanding is that with more power you want the belt a little bit looser, but, again, not lose enough that the belt slips a tooth or you'll rip the teeth off. More power means more stress on the belt and the rest of the drive train so go easy on the trigger. No slipper clutch means that the only give in the drive train is the belt and the tires contact patch.

As far as following the manual. My experience is that it's close but you need to adjust to your car. As the belt ages it stretches and if you change any of the pulleys (center or diff) you have to adjust to match.

Speed Passion

Thank you.

capnkids

You know you might be on to something. I too changed out the center pulley to the 19 tooth right off the bat. I had to tighten the front belt a good bit to get a few millimeters wiggle in the mid-belt position. So, I wonder if they did make an adjustment to something to loosen things up a little. I think I could have stayed with the 20 tooth pullies and been fine on belt tension.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

I too changed to 19t as recommended but as soon as i boosted the esc i stripped the pulleys so they were bald and constantly slipped under power, i switched back to 20t and never looked back, the belts are no longer too tight, i guess they stretch a little after some use. What should be mentioned is that many zero owners race vta where a looser belt is better but for boosted class stay with 20t pulleys, just my opinion anyway