3Racing Sakura Zero S
#2506
You might want a spool in the front, but no FOW on a race chassis. You want the brakes. Having the front free wheel makes the rear have to supply all the braking.
#2507
Tech Elite
iTrader: (117)
I am just putting the finishing touches on my electronics so this is not based on experience. It is based on this thread and a few racers input. Here is what I went for:
Vertical motor mount version 3
19 tooth center pulleys
Aluminum center pulley mounts
Tamiya shock bladders and o rings
Titanium turnbuckle set
Shim sets
Non stock differential and shock fluid
Aluminum shock set
The only ones I feel are have to haves are the vertical motor mount ($17) and the Tamiya shock stuff ($5).
Vertical motor mount version 3
19 tooth center pulleys
Aluminum center pulley mounts
Tamiya shock bladders and o rings
Titanium turnbuckle set
Shim sets
Non stock differential and shock fluid
Aluminum shock set
The only ones I feel are have to haves are the vertical motor mount ($17) and the Tamiya shock stuff ($5).
#2509
Tech Initiate
The version 3 vertical motor mount is SAK-S17/PK.
It has the other side of the spur gear mount in aluminum included and the top motor mount hole arm included on a separate part that you bolt onto the main mount. All 3 pieces (the spur mount, the top hole arm, and the main vertical mount) are included in that part number.
I got mine at TQRCRacing.com
Hope this helps.
It has the other side of the spur gear mount in aluminum included and the top motor mount hole arm included on a separate part that you bolt onto the main mount. All 3 pieces (the spur mount, the top hole arm, and the main vertical mount) are included in that part number.
I got mine at TQRCRacing.com
Hope this helps.
#2510
Tech Adept
Looks nice Metalsoft.
#2511
Tech Adept
I just checked the corner weights and found it to be way out. After some careful shimming, I got the fronts to within 5 grams of eachother, and the rears to within 30 grams. The rear was off by around 140 grams! That explains the two bald tires; left rear, and right front.
Should be better now.
Should be better now.
#2512
Belt Tension
Greetings to you all,
This is a great thread and I appreciate everyone's input.
I had a belt tension question. I will be using a high KV motor; 5700. The Front pulley is 38t as is the rear, and the spur pulley has been switched to the 19t to allow for less tension as many have stated is ideal.
Where would you set the belt tension, is it still to be set to the manual's setting or is there a different setting to be set to?
Thank you in advance!
This is a great thread and I appreciate everyone's input.
I had a belt tension question. I will be using a high KV motor; 5700. The Front pulley is 38t as is the rear, and the spur pulley has been switched to the 19t to allow for less tension as many have stated is ideal.
Where would you set the belt tension, is it still to be set to the manual's setting or is there a different setting to be set to?
Thank you in advance!
#2513
Tech Adept
It's weird that I just built my S bone stock, and had no issues with too much, or too little belt tension. I wonder if the newer kits have been updated?
When setting belts, any belts, I like to make them just tight enough that they don't slip or skip. Any tighter and you are wasting energy and bearings. Just make sure you come back and check them as they stretch.
When setting belts, any belts, I like to make them just tight enough that they don't slip or skip. Any tighter and you are wasting energy and bearings. Just make sure you come back and check them as they stretch.
#2514
cygnusx1 has it. Tight enough that it won't slip. Loose enough that it doesn't add any friction. The belt should move up and down a couple of mm in the middle.
#2515
It's weird that I just built my S bone stock, and had no issues with too much, or too little belt tension. I wonder if the newer kits have been updated?
When setting belts, any belts, I like to make them just tight enough that they don't slip or skip. Any tighter and you are wasting energy and bearings. Just make sure you come back and check them as they stretch.
When setting belts, any belts, I like to make them just tight enough that they don't slip or skip. Any tighter and you are wasting energy and bearings. Just make sure you come back and check them as they stretch.
Thank you in advance.
#2516
Thank you.
#2517
As far as following the manual. My experience is that it's close but you need to adjust to your car. As the belt ages it stretches and if you change any of the pulleys (center or diff) you have to adjust to match.
#2518
My understanding is that with more power you want the belt a little bit looser, but, again, not lose enough that the belt slips a tooth or you'll rip the teeth off. More power means more stress on the belt and the rest of the drive train so go easy on the trigger. No slipper clutch means that the only give in the drive train is the belt and the tires contact patch.
As far as following the manual. My experience is that it's close but you need to adjust to your car. As the belt ages it stretches and if you change any of the pulleys (center or diff) you have to adjust to match.
As far as following the manual. My experience is that it's close but you need to adjust to your car. As the belt ages it stretches and if you change any of the pulleys (center or diff) you have to adjust to match.
#2519
Tech Initiate
You know you might be on to something. I too changed out the center pulley to the 19 tooth right off the bat. I had to tighten the front belt a good bit to get a few millimeters wiggle in the mid-belt position. So, I wonder if they did make an adjustment to something to loosen things up a little. I think I could have stayed with the 20 tooth pullies and been fine on belt tension.
#2520
I too changed to 19t as recommended but as soon as i boosted the esc i stripped the pulleys so they were bald and constantly slipped under power, i switched back to 20t and never looked back, the belts are no longer too tight, i guess they stretch a little after some use. What should be mentioned is that many zero owners race vta where a looser belt is better but for boosted class stay with 20t pulleys, just my opinion anyway