TT-01 Forum
#2026
I've had many TT01's since the Enzo first came out in 2003.
I've set up a street/parking lot basher, with a Castle 5700KV and stock gears (19/61) that will keep up with Nitro's on a back straight on a track (but not make the turn at the end!) lol.
A tip, add a 5mm shim (Losi sells these, look up the part # on Horizon) behind both front and rear gearbox drive pinions. That tightens up the gear mesh.
Another use for those large bronze diff bushings, is to use one in place of the spur gear stopper. The fit is snug, so it takes some patience getting it together, but it holds the input shaft in place, and I still have the original spur in the car powered by the CC5700KV. At these high power/RPM levels, the metal center driveshaft set is necessary, but the stock plastic dog bones work fine. (Great set up for maximum bashing performance, with the least amount of money/effort)
I have another modded TT01, set up for 13.5 brushless, fitted with the Tamiya Ball Diffs, Tamiya CVDs, TRF shocks, Tamiya BB steering, GPM arms.
People have complained, that the ball diffs have loose fitting drive cups.....they are loose, but I have fixed that issue, by "gluing" the splines together with a light drop of Tamiya Thread Lock. The semi-pliable compound, sets up and keeps the assembly tightly together, yet, will still be removable if you need. (Pry it off with side cutters acting as a wedge)
The Tamiya brand of CVDs, although more money then the other brands, have proven to worth the higher costs, as the steel and durability have far exceed my experience with other cheaper brands of drive shafts.....even the "Titanium" universals sucked. For the front arms, I selected the GPM alloy arms, since they have an adjustment for the pivot ball, that got rid of a lot of slop in that area.
If you have the original standard version of TT01, you will probably notice, the motor mount wiggles....a VERY small piece of servo tape on top of the motor mount, between the cover and mount plate, will tighten that up.
Get your local club to start a TT01 stock motor spec class, lots of fun!
Last Monday nights' racing, we had 7 stock cars.....the top 6, all finished on the same lap! Now, that's racing!
I've set up a street/parking lot basher, with a Castle 5700KV and stock gears (19/61) that will keep up with Nitro's on a back straight on a track (but not make the turn at the end!) lol.
A tip, add a 5mm shim (Losi sells these, look up the part # on Horizon) behind both front and rear gearbox drive pinions. That tightens up the gear mesh.
Another use for those large bronze diff bushings, is to use one in place of the spur gear stopper. The fit is snug, so it takes some patience getting it together, but it holds the input shaft in place, and I still have the original spur in the car powered by the CC5700KV. At these high power/RPM levels, the metal center driveshaft set is necessary, but the stock plastic dog bones work fine. (Great set up for maximum bashing performance, with the least amount of money/effort)
I have another modded TT01, set up for 13.5 brushless, fitted with the Tamiya Ball Diffs, Tamiya CVDs, TRF shocks, Tamiya BB steering, GPM arms.
People have complained, that the ball diffs have loose fitting drive cups.....they are loose, but I have fixed that issue, by "gluing" the splines together with a light drop of Tamiya Thread Lock. The semi-pliable compound, sets up and keeps the assembly tightly together, yet, will still be removable if you need. (Pry it off with side cutters acting as a wedge)
The Tamiya brand of CVDs, although more money then the other brands, have proven to worth the higher costs, as the steel and durability have far exceed my experience with other cheaper brands of drive shafts.....even the "Titanium" universals sucked. For the front arms, I selected the GPM alloy arms, since they have an adjustment for the pivot ball, that got rid of a lot of slop in that area.
If you have the original standard version of TT01, you will probably notice, the motor mount wiggles....a VERY small piece of servo tape on top of the motor mount, between the cover and mount plate, will tighten that up.
Get your local club to start a TT01 stock motor spec class, lots of fun!
Last Monday nights' racing, we had 7 stock cars.....the top 6, all finished on the same lap! Now, that's racing!
#2028
Thanks. (the front looks, slightly different now)
Cheap to start up this class, $100 something for a kit, grab an old rx and sx from your scrap bin, get a cheap 1500~1800 nicad.
Since these kits now come with ESCs, very little is needed...many hobbyist the parts to complete one.
Everyone can race spec, and invest in the car, complete and ready to race, for less than I have in just one comp esc!
Cheap to start up this class, $100 something for a kit, grab an old rx and sx from your scrap bin, get a cheap 1500~1800 nicad.
Since these kits now come with ESCs, very little is needed...many hobbyist the parts to complete one.
Everyone can race spec, and invest in the car, complete and ready to race, for less than I have in just one comp esc!
#2029
Tech Adept
Hi, i recentlly change to a xerun 8.5t motor with ezrun 60a esc. i,m having this problem which my esc got cut after a few minutes run.
My car is tt01 gearing 25 55. timing set to 5 and punch set to 6. esc run till cut and motor is hot too but can be touch.
I had my exrun fan replace with a yeah racing high speed fan. but fan is connect directly to the receiver. the old one i had cut away..
I had jus change my pinon from 55 to 58. able to achieve slight longer run time. But with my previous gearing of 25 55 on a 10.5t with max timing and punch, i don't have this problem and able to run till my lipo flat at 7.5v...
Anyone have recommendation? whether to gear up or down.. thought of changing my pinon to 28 and try as my ESC is hot..
My car is tt01 gearing 25 55. timing set to 5 and punch set to 6. esc run till cut and motor is hot too but can be touch.
I had my exrun fan replace with a yeah racing high speed fan. but fan is connect directly to the receiver. the old one i had cut away..
I had jus change my pinon from 55 to 58. able to achieve slight longer run time. But with my previous gearing of 25 55 on a 10.5t with max timing and punch, i don't have this problem and able to run till my lipo flat at 7.5v...
Anyone have recommendation? whether to gear up or down.. thought of changing my pinon to 28 and try as my ESC is hot..
#2030
YR Conversion kit
I've change my TT-01E over to the YR conversion kit and now the steering has become really stiff/sturdy. Its so stiff to the point where the servo isn't doing its job. (I'm running savox sc-1258tg) Anyone encounter this problem too? I've loosen things up here and there but it still giving me the same problem. The blue aluminum looks nice but its pointless if the car can only go straight.
#2031
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (3)
I've change my TT-01E over to the YR conversion kit and now the steering has become really stiff/sturdy. Its so stiff to the point where the servo isn't doing its job. (I'm running savox sc-1258tg) Anyone encounter this problem too? I've loosen things up here and there but it still giving me the same problem. The blue aluminum looks nice but its pointless if the car can only go straight.
The class i race in we do mean things to these cars and people use the yeah racing conversion quite a lot with no issuses
#2032
Tech Rookie
hey guys.. i'm having a problem with the setup for TT01e.
after installing hobbywing 10.5t BL motor which comes with the ESC on TT01e, the steering direction is total on the opposite side, meaning when i turn left on the controller the car turns right.. anyway ideal wats wrong??
totally newbie..thanks
after installing hobbywing 10.5t BL motor which comes with the ESC on TT01e, the steering direction is total on the opposite side, meaning when i turn left on the controller the car turns right.. anyway ideal wats wrong??
totally newbie..thanks
#2033
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Question on sway bars for TT01E-R Kit? Does anyone know how to install them? My LHS has the sway bar kits in stock but there are no linkage parts in the package...... I believe the ones they have are meant for the old TT01 and not the "E" version. Any help would be great.
#2034
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
hey guys.. i'm having a problem with the setup for TT01e.
after installing hobbywing 10.5t BL motor which comes with the ESC on TT01e, the steering direction is total on the opposite side, meaning when i turn left on the controller the car turns right.. anyway ideal wats wrong??
totally newbie..thanks
after installing hobbywing 10.5t BL motor which comes with the ESC on TT01e, the steering direction is total on the opposite side, meaning when i turn left on the controller the car turns right.. anyway ideal wats wrong??
totally newbie..thanks
#2035
Tech Initiate
Question on sway bars for TT01E-R Kit? Does anyone know how to install them? My LHS has the sway bar kits in stock but there are no linkage parts in the package...... I believe the ones they have are meant for the old TT01 and not the "E" version. Any help would be great.
You need 53640 and 53644 for assembling.
53694 is the stabilizer bar set.
Also you need the B8,B10 parts from kit and a the screws shown in the manual.
#2036
Differential Locker.
Snap...
This of course is just my humble .02 cents since I too spooled my front one my tt-01 the day after I got into RC cars and I fought it for months before the local track legend had me swap it back out to stock, make some suspension adjustments and presto, track times as well as skill improved 10 fold for corner management. Again, just my .02 cents from one rookie to another.
Snap...
This of course is just my humble .02 cents since I too spooled my front one my tt-01 the day after I got into RC cars and I fought it for months before the local track legend had me swap it back out to stock, make some suspension adjustments and presto, track times as well as skill improved 10 fold for corner management. Again, just my .02 cents from one rookie to another.
mind you share a bit of your setup?
I'm rather unexperienced with this bathtube chassis setup and would like to get more out from it.
Thanks
Giorgio
#2037
Tech Adept
is there any suggestion to install the body post if "rear carbon damper stay" is combined with "rear camber set"?
currently, I put "body post" on "damper stay" but collides with the "rear camber stay" because mounting "body post" protruding down.
To install the "body post" on the bumper is also not possible due to the collision with the rear wing
currently, I put "body post" on "damper stay" but collides with the "rear camber stay" because mounting "body post" protruding down.
To install the "body post" on the bumper is also not possible due to the collision with the rear wing
#2038
Tech Rookie
Read through the last 10 pages or so and there was lots of helpful info/tips in there, thanks!
You regulars seem to want to know what we want out of the tt-01 so I'll just tell you what I want and let you do what you do best, point me in the right direction.
I want a 50-60mph basher that's strong and cheap (don't we all?). Will be used for showing off on my street and open parking lots at car shows.
I can get a new TT-01 rolling chassis for $70 or I can get an updated TT-01E for $110. Which should I get? Leaning towards the $70 chassis and using the $40 savings on better upgrades?
I have a 2.4ghz KO Propo Mars tc/rx set-up and lipo charger. So I'll need a suitable servo, esc/bl motor, lipo and any upgrades to make it stand up to the power. Gearing advice would also be appreciated.
You regulars seem to want to know what we want out of the tt-01 so I'll just tell you what I want and let you do what you do best, point me in the right direction.
I want a 50-60mph basher that's strong and cheap (don't we all?). Will be used for showing off on my street and open parking lots at car shows.
I can get a new TT-01 rolling chassis for $70 or I can get an updated TT-01E for $110. Which should I get? Leaning towards the $70 chassis and using the $40 savings on better upgrades?
I have a 2.4ghz KO Propo Mars tc/rx set-up and lipo charger. So I'll need a suitable servo, esc/bl motor, lipo and any upgrades to make it stand up to the power. Gearing advice would also be appreciated.
#2039
Both chassis are the same, however, much better steering rack on the "E" version. Though, you can buy those pieces, and add them to the standard chassis....
BUT, the "E" also has stronger shock towers, and option to mount the shocks in two locations.
For speed runs, I recently ran the maiden on a "E" chassis, with a 4.5T Team Checkpoint Brushless motor....on the radar gun, hit 48 mph on stock gear ratio (19t pinion, 61 spur)
Going to creep up one tooth at a time, so I don't overload the motor. Should be able to hit 60+mph without breaking a sweat, handling, will be a different story.
Used a 5000 mah LiPo with 50C rating.
Novak GTB2 ESC
The 4.5T Checkpoint motor, has approx 9200KV rating.
Alum center driveshaft and bearings are a must!
Oil shocks are a must over 20 mph.
BUT, the "E" also has stronger shock towers, and option to mount the shocks in two locations.
For speed runs, I recently ran the maiden on a "E" chassis, with a 4.5T Team Checkpoint Brushless motor....on the radar gun, hit 48 mph on stock gear ratio (19t pinion, 61 spur)
Going to creep up one tooth at a time, so I don't overload the motor. Should be able to hit 60+mph without breaking a sweat, handling, will be a different story.
Used a 5000 mah LiPo with 50C rating.
Novak GTB2 ESC
The 4.5T Checkpoint motor, has approx 9200KV rating.
Alum center driveshaft and bearings are a must!
Oil shocks are a must over 20 mph.
#2040
TT01 Enzo 4.5T
Here is a motor pic: