Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Regular
lol i'm debating about getting a second V2 if the price is right to keep me going.... my LHS claims parts is not a problem because they love this buggy and they personally have a box of parts at home if I do break something.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
I highly recommend it if you can get the parts man. That's awesome they are gonna hook you up if you end up with some breakage they are fast buggies my friend, definitely worth the effort.
Tech Regular
what is the difference between the old curved front arm vs.t he new straight arms (front control arm)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
From (link)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
How can i tell if I have the type b chassis ?
Tech Regular
Just picked up a V1 (almost ready to run hardware)... in much better condition than my V2 (almost no scratches to the aluminum chassis). But I think running the V2 would be better? Looks like more adjustability of battery position on the chassis
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
If you look at the front and back of the chassis you should see some extra plastic ribbing to reinforce the chassis. Just look at these pictures on amain and you should be able to compare
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...SABEgIAGfD_BwE
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...SABEgIAGfD_BwE
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Well since the v2 parts are the harder ones to find you might want to start with running the v1 and get all you can out of it. Then step up to the v2 when you feel you cant make the v1 any faster.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Actually ignore my other post, what you should do is buy one of Exotek's aluminum chassis kits and then you can use both v1 and v2 parts seamlessly. You can get them for $50 right now which is a steal if you already have the buggy. I am running V2 and V1 parts on my Exotek chassis with no issue.
Tech Regular
Really the V2 parts are harder to find? What are the main differences in parts? I know the shock tower, control arms are definitely different. Both having the aluminum chassis everything else looks the same.
The only thing is the V1 is setup as RM and the V2 is setup as MM. Actually the V2 also has the aluminum hangers and the steering cross link.
The only thing is the V1 is setup as RM and the V2 is setup as MM. Actually the V2 also has the aluminum hangers and the steering cross link.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Really the V2 parts are harder to find? What are the main differences in parts? I know the shock tower, control arms are definitely different. Both having the aluminum chassis everything else looks the same.
The only thing is the V1 is setup as RM and the V2 is setup as MM. Actually the V2 also has the aluminum hangers and the steering cross link.
The only thing is the V1 is setup as RM and the V2 is setup as MM. Actually the V2 also has the aluminum hangers and the steering cross link.
I believe the most important parts from the v2 are the shock towers (swept back design compared to v1 and rear tower has lower mounting holes), front shocks (they are shorter than v1) and front arms. The rear v2 arms only give you an additional mounting location for the shocks in the rear so the geometry is the same if you intend to keep the shocks mounted in front of the shock tower. The v2 gearbox is also nice to have as it has a beefed up design for the camber link mounts which was a weak spot on the v1. But as far as I know both v1 and v2 gearboxes are interchangeable.
Right now I am running the v1 gullwing arms with a v2 front shock tower and v2 shocks as recommended by Fredswain who put a lot of work into this buggy. The results have been pretty fantastic. I am also still running the v1 plastic RF hanger which just got destroyed at the track yesterday so now I'm moving to the Exotek hanger which is still available. I recommend it if you don't have one already. If the only aluminum bit in your steering rack is the ackerman plate, than I recommend also getting one of Exotek's steering rack upgrades as they are stupid cheap right now and make a big difference in longevity.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
I need some more eyes on this. It ALMOST looks straight with new hardware installed. So the screws I think we're to blame. But it still seems off. Think it's still usable without negative handling effects?
Better pic
Better pic
Last edited by EbbTide; 08-21-2017 at 08:52 AM.
Tech Regular
Picked up a couple of gear covers from the shop today.
Was inquiring about new chassis plate because my V2 is pretty scratch. But looks like only +8mm is available. How do you know if you have one or if not what is need to run that chassis?
Was inquiring about new chassis plate because my V2 is pretty scratch. But looks like only +8mm is available. How do you know if you have one or if not what is need to run that chassis?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...320215/p298924
You just need the +8mm side pods to run that chassis plate. Everything else just bolts on
Tech Regular
Great idea grabbing extra covers. I've heard people wear them out pretty quick.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...320215/p298924
You just need the +8mm side pods to run that chassis plate. Everything else just bolts on
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-du...320215/p298924
You just need the +8mm side pods to run that chassis plate. Everything else just bolts on