sfl232

I've got an Integy station. I'll set it up per the sheet supplied with the kit and go from there. I know from my NTC3 that playing around with the set up made a big diference either way. I had to make myself make only one change at a time and drive it for little bit and let the clock tell me what was happening.

ShrekNZ

yep you wil have some left over parts like shims even a MTX3 battery tray etc. I really didn't get lost with the parts bags there is one bag (F I think) that has most of the hardware that you keep taking bit's from.

Only extra stuff I needed was some ali shims to adjust the front bump steer

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

A setup station is really the way to go. It's so fast and easy to check everything before a race, after an accident (breakage or not) or after replacing any suspension parts. I can't begin to tell you how many times I've found that some setting was off preparing for a race or after having eye balled it.

If you're not sure if a setup station is right for you, try setting up your car without it and then borrow someone else's setup station (LHS might even let you use theirs) to see how off you are.

IMO, a contributing factor to enjoying and being sucessful in this hobby/sport is to have the right tools. It makes your life easier and you can do things right the first time.

texticleboy

hey guys, im new to the sport, im located in sol cal and i was planning to start off with a mugen mtx4r where can i purchase one for a good price? or should i shop online?

ShrekNZ

A setup station is probably almost in the category of a must have for Gas cars. Will pillow blocks you need to be able to get the rear toe correct as well as track width etc. it's not like a Tamiya kit where you use a vernier to get a base setup. Even a simple set with a flat board is better than nothing. Personally I couldn't do without my setup gear.

va_connoisseur

OK. I will take a look at the Hudy and Integy setup stations. Made it to step 8 in the build last night, seems to be progressing smoothly. I will say tweezers are a lot better at helping put the rear diff together. I may need therapy after dealing with that 2X9.8 pin.

Will complete the front suspension today unless the arms are too tight and I have to wait for the A-arm reamer. So far, things are progressing smoothly.

T if you're looking to buy the car in SoCal, get it from a LHS. The useful tips they can give you on building and maintaining the car will far exceed the few coins you will save on-line. Just my 2 cents

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

The right tool for the job is a non-marring (no teeth) needle nose pliers. It comes in very handy for quite a number of things on the car, including the diff bevels, pins and shocks piston rods.

sfl232

I support my LHS.
I'll talk to him about prices I find out in the world and ask him if he can do anything for me. I've made it clear to him that I know he's the guy I'm going to when I'm in a bind. I need him in business and making money, ie happy.
He'll tweak his prices around to meet or come close to the prices I find in "the world" and I'll happily pay a few dollars more just to keep the convience of having parts I don't have to wait on shipping companies for.

va_connoisseur

I agree. These are they guys that keep the support growing.

sfl232

Finished it up last night. I'll set the suspension and see how it operates.
I'm racing the Fireball Classic this weekend Hopefully I can get it figured out before Sunday.
Worst day racing is still better than your best day at work......

serpentpro28

Anybody try the new serpent960 body on mrx4r, feedback please'

Tye

Take a look at e-bay. They always have set-up stations on there...in fact I just sold an integy one.

Thanks, Tye

va_connoisseur

Once I get to that stage of the build, I will look into a station. For now I need to get the front end build complete. Should have that complete tonight.

For those of you that have built kits before:

Is it standard to have step number and bag number not in sync? From the prospective of a novice builder, it would be nice to have Step 1 correspond to Bag 1, etc. Thanks.

sfl232

I just got done with building mine. I'll say they did not seem to put a lot of thought into what should go into each bag. I had to open several screw bags out of the letter bag and I even had to keep previous bags handy for bearings, springs etc. I kept every thing seperate and in individual piles from the bags they came from. in the end I had some hardware (like for the front diff) and some plastic parts. (I seem to have two different switch attachment parts) but nothing I could not explain away. Once the front end is done it is down hill until the clutch and that was just a pain to compress the spring enough to get it started on the shaft. setting up the radio was pretty straight forward. I just had to set the end points but with the M8 that's easy to do. I have not run the car yet so I can't comment on how good of a job I did but I feel pretty good about the build.
Keep at it 8-10 hours from now you'll be making noise.

va_connoisseur

I was finishing the front end assembly tonight and ran into a couple of issues. The front anti-roll bar appears to be binding/misaligned. Note the photo, the right side pertrudes out while the left side if flush





And now it appears the adjustment screws on the bottom have stripped because I cannot back them out. Any suggestions?

Also, are the pillow balls supposed to be difficult to screw into the upper and lower A-Arm? I could only get them about halfway before it felt like applying more pressure would cause something to strip. I check the alignment and they appear to be going in straight. Thanks in advance for help and suggestions.