IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

What do you attribute the smooth rebuild to?

I have some spare HPI rings and thrust washers on the way (a164 & a166) for future replacement parts. On this rebuild I used the Associated lube and grease with carbide diff balls (one set HPI and one AE) and regular thrust balls. The rings and washers showed some wear in the form of a shiny track where the balls traveled but I could not feel a groove in the surface. I flipped the rings and washers and used the other sides. I was expecting a smoother feeling diff, maybe I used too much lube? If i loosen them to get a super smooth feeling then the gear can slip as the diff isn't tight enough to hold power. I tighten it until I can't turn the pulley by hand while holding the output shafts stationary. They feel tight.

Bossman429

I think the ceramic balls make most of the difference, I need to do my TC3 diffs next so I'll have a better idea of the diff between the carbide vs ceramic diff balls.

M3Armand

Bossman, do you have the part numbers for the AE rings and ceramic diff balls?

Also, does anyone know where I can get the:
A160: Diff Hub 19 x 27 mm
A161: Diff Hub 19 x 22 mm

OR are there any other alternative part numbers from different cars that would fit?

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

Check out this place
http://www.quicktechhobby.com/Monthl...CE%20ITEMS.htm

M3Armand

Quick Tech Hobby.... rrrrriiiigghhttt.. You mean the same Quick Tech Hobby that seemingly ripped off a lot of hobbyists?

Try googling their phone number 660-530-8530 and see what you find out.

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I see what you mean. I was getting an email together to see if the parts I'm looking for were really in stock. Guess I can skip that. Parts are hard to come by for these cars now, I just bought every old stock part my lhs had. They did have part A905 for the nitro rs4, not sure if that would work for you.

Bossman429

I use the TC3 diff rebuild kit:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA07&P=7

The Ceramic diff balls I got from a seller here in the for sale section.
Avidvc.com has the ceramic balls for $1 each. I got them from here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ated-losi.html

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

found this; http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-32T-BALL-DIF...item45f8e35a9e

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

Not quite finished yet, still waiting on some parts to come in, some are cosmetic and some functional. Don't you love placing an order on the internet only to get an email the next morning saying EVERYTHING is backordered? At least it didn't say everything is discontinued! I have basically been scouring the internet, ebay mostly, and the lhs's in my area for old stock collecting dust. Some parts just aren't around anymore, like the narrow stock universals and parts tree A370. The saving grace has been that a lot of the hardware and wear heavy parts like diff rings are used in other kits and still readily available. Not sure on the belts so I picked up a couple sets to be on the safe side since I don't know how they'll hold up to brushless power.

Found a PRO 1 and a bunch of parts for sale here on the forum (thanks C5R01). I was going to use it as a parts car but it's in really good shape and pretty complete, so now I have two. With my original chassis I've decided to make it the flagship, restored with all the choice parts. At first I hated the HPI purple (I was going to use blue Tamiya parts) but somewhere along the line I succumbed to purple fever. One thing I missed the boat on was option parts. My PRO was box stock except for the optional belt tensioner. Almost all the purple on the car is for looks. The only parts I felt were required upgrades were the servo arm, now purple aluminum due to a faster, higher torque servo and the wheel hexes due to the BL setup.

Here are some pics of the build so far.
purple hubs, sexy.


the purple begins. I opted to go with the black machine screws on the purple washers.


getting the rear together.


don't pay attention to the ugly philips head screws, they will be gone soon.


ball bearing mod to the steering linkage done with extra boca bearings from the pro 2 steering kit. supa smoove!


new steering servo hitec something-or-other. faster stronger and heavier . mounted with old hardware for testing throws.


updated hardware. the hex screws kit is awesome, also in pic is pro4 ball joint with hex head. word of caution, pro4 balls are 4.3mm threaded m3. the pro hardware is 4-40 which = 4.3mm 4-40 threaded. it is slightly cross threaded here but holding tight. prepared to add purple m3 nut if needed.


Well that's where I'm at for now. I would like to get a hold of some more option parts, one way pulleys, purple motor mount and stuff, so the search continues.

nbkpsycho

Im after spares for my RS4 Pro 2. Is there any websites you guys can recommend? Ive tried ebay but they do not sell the spares that i am after.

Thanks

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

Unfortunately a lot of the parts are not made anymore. You would have to find old stock that shops are selling or find parts from different pro cars that fit, a lot of the RS4 PRO cars have interchangeable pieces. I would keep searching ebay or craigslist and put up a google reader and try and buy another roller for spare parts. Next best would be to find aftermarket replacement parts that are still being made. I found this site a few days ago, thinking about getting some shocks and A arms. http://www.asiatees.com/gpm.php?HPI-...cing&brand=HPI

Tell us what you are looking for, maybe we can help.

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

Came across this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-32T-BALL-DIF...item45f8e35a9e

IH8VTEC

iTrader: (6)

Anyone know which parts can be used between the PRO series, mostly between the 1, 2, and 3?

Wondering if the info has been compiled somewhere. I am trying to see if the steering knuckles/uprights and A arms can be swapped.

Bossman429

knuckles/uprights are the same on the 1 & 2, and are also the same as the new Nitro 3 Evo which I also have. I know the MT2 also runs the same uprights, but the knuckles MAY be different. I'd have to go look, but I think they are the same.
I think the a arms are beefier on the 2 vs the 1. I'm sure the 3 is a totally different design as I think it is also shaft drive. I have a race buddy with one that I can check out when the season starts at the end of this month.

coopasonic

iTrader: (5)

Looking at the pictures of your cars, the RS4 Pro3 is very different. It is still belt drive, but the layout is very different.

This spring I got the urge to get my RS4 Pro3 out to play with my almost 5 year old. The 1500 mAh NiCads wouldn't take a charge and the charger cried about it so I went to the LHS and asked what I should do. They sold me a 7 cell 5100 mAh NiMh hump pack with promises of glorious run times, telling me that I would just need to grind off a nub on the chassis (I don't know the names of any of these parts) to make the longer battery fit.

Turns out the nub was there to make sure the battery didn't touch the gears that drive the belts. My new battery pack now has two neat grooves on one end.

I started thinking about the same thing you guys are doing, rebuild with brushless and lipo, but then I decided a newer chassis would be a better idea and I hit ebay... hard. Even knowing that I have 2 different TT01 rollers on the way (plus a XXX-S and a Rustler, yeah I told you I hit ebay hard), now you have me thinking of reviving the Pro3 again.

I even have the Castle Sv2 on my amazon wish list.

I think I cooked the motor over the weekend when the pinion gear came loose at speed. I guess that's more reason to get the brushless motor and esc.