motor saver or "killer"
#1
motor saver or "killer"
I have run a motor saver filter on our 10th scale for quite some time with 0 problems. I also have one on our 1/8th scale and have recently noticed a film of dirt inside the boot and also in the carb. I thought that maybe there was'nt enough filter oil. I cleaned and re-oiled the filter reinstalled the filter ran a few laps and sure enough it done it again. Has anyone else noticed or had this problem? What other brands of filters/kits are available?
Thanks guy's
Thanks guy's
#2
IMO the Mugen foam filters are the one of the best on the market. Couple that with this filter oil and you can't go wrong!
http://www.brocktoncycle.com/eshoppr...ilter_Oil_.htm
You should be able to get that filter oil at most cycle shops.
http://www.brocktoncycle.com/eshoppr...ilter_Oil_.htm
You should be able to get that filter oil at most cycle shops.
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (117)
yea, try running stickier oil. i used to run AE blue airfilter oil back in the day when i ran nitro. and i even made my own airfilter cover with foam, and greased both of the foam pieces. worked great. most of the dirt got stuck to the outside filter, and almost none were on the inside filter.
#5
Tech Regular
motor savers work fine. my friend uses one, his engine has lasted him over 10 race meets.
myself i prefer something more safer. I use the SH two stage filter. similar to the mugen filter but can fit a outer foam aswell.
myself i prefer something more safer. I use the SH two stage filter. similar to the mugen filter but can fit a outer foam aswell.
#6
Tech Addict
While I agree with all the good advice so far, the problem you've stated here is just the nature of the beast: off-road. There really is no way around the fact that some dirt just makes it through... especially if you are running in dusty conditions (i.e. non-watered tracks for big events or just non-watered tracks in general). Let me guess; you are taking a Q-tip, or other similar device, wiping it inside the carb after a race day and a small film of black is on the Q-tip? It doesn't look like there is any dirt there just looking at it, but after you wipe the Q-tip it'll show what has made it through the filter. This happens to me all the time. It won't happen on a watered, loamy track, but it will on the dusty ones. I'm sure there will be folks here that will say, "No, my technique is the best and dirt never makes it into my engine". Unfortunately, it does. All you can do is run a clean air filter that is well oiled every race day to catch most of the dirt.
#7
Originally Posted by SpeedBump57
IMO the Mugen foam filters are the one of the best on the market. Couple that with this filter oil and you can't go wrong!
http://www.brocktoncycle.com/eshoppr...ilter_Oil_.htm
You should be able to get that filter oil at most cycle shops.
http://www.brocktoncycle.com/eshoppr...ilter_Oil_.htm
You should be able to get that filter oil at most cycle shops.
The Maxima Fab1 is one of the stickest oils you will find. I used to use it in my off road bikes as well.
#8
My son ran a motor saver filter (.21 style) for 3 years on his XXXNT with a MT.12 with great success. The trick is to use some good heavy airfilter oil ( Maxima FFT foam air filter oil) available at your local motorcycle shop. Use this on both foams.
On the MS cage make sure you use a grease (AE black grease) on all the side ribs around the screen and on the top piece of the cap and also on the bottom where the filters sit. This should help seal the filter for air to pass through the foams only.
We found if you did not do this small particles can get through the filter easier because the foams don't put enough pressure on the side walls of the filter. Also be prepared if running on a real dusty track to have the filters clog up and see your engine richen up in a long main, so you may want to run the bottom end a tad leaner than normal or have your pitman be prepared to do this.
And as our friend earlier said no matter what, some stuff will always get through to the engine so you need to be on your toes to keep it as clean as possible.
On the MS cage make sure you use a grease (AE black grease) on all the side ribs around the screen and on the top piece of the cap and also on the bottom where the filters sit. This should help seal the filter for air to pass through the foams only.
We found if you did not do this small particles can get through the filter easier because the foams don't put enough pressure on the side walls of the filter. Also be prepared if running on a real dusty track to have the filters clog up and see your engine richen up in a long main, so you may want to run the bottom end a tad leaner than normal or have your pitman be prepared to do this.
And as our friend earlier said no matter what, some stuff will always get through to the engine so you need to be on your toes to keep it as clean as possible.
#9
I've been running the motor saver filter on my XB8 this year, it says its pre oiled, but not enough IMO. The track I run on gets very dusty after pretty quickly and I had issues with getting dirt in my carb. I just took some Associated filter oil and oiled both the inner and outter elements and haven't had any more issues...
#10
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5763
This is the best I have ever used...Nodirt gets by...the prefilter...just shoe goo the the upper and lower sections..and you are golden...
-Shookie <><
This is the best I have ever used...Nodirt gets by...the prefilter...just shoe goo the the upper and lower sections..and you are golden...
-Shookie <><
#11
I just switched to Thunder Tiger filters due to anothers satisfaction.
Definatley a Better design, the white elements seem more dense than the Motor Saver grey. Are easier to clean and see when the entire filter is oiled.
Grease on the foam sounds good.Although I was/am satisfied with the foam tension against the ends, I've bein looking at a good clean oily foam print on the white cap & base.
The closed end cap makes all the air go thru the filter. Not like the motor saver only after the secondary filter end screen plugs up.
Recently tryed the motor saver primary outter over the TTR and there was
at least 50% more dirt on the outside of the TTR secondary and still whistle clean inside. Using Traxass filter oil cauce I got it, and its a nice Red
Seems as sticky as that un-holey Black stuff Huskavarna chain saw stuff
Definatley a Better design, the white elements seem more dense than the Motor Saver grey. Are easier to clean and see when the entire filter is oiled.
Grease on the foam sounds good.Although I was/am satisfied with the foam tension against the ends, I've bein looking at a good clean oily foam print on the white cap & base.
The closed end cap makes all the air go thru the filter. Not like the motor saver only after the secondary filter end screen plugs up.
Recently tryed the motor saver primary outter over the TTR and there was
at least 50% more dirt on the outside of the TTR secondary and still whistle clean inside. Using Traxass filter oil cauce I got it, and its a nice Red
Seems as sticky as that un-holey Black stuff Huskavarna chain saw stuff
#12
OK ,Ok, ok, Motor Killer,,,but,,,with reserve, at least it didnt leak as bad as my, L.S.T. 1 did.
#13
Originally Posted by Mr. Shookie
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5763
This is the best I have ever used...Nodirt gets by...the prefilter...just shoe goo the the upper and lower sections..and you are golden...
-Shookie <><
This is the best I have ever used...Nodirt gets by...the prefilter...just shoe goo the the upper and lower sections..and you are golden...
-Shookie <><
#14
If you over oil a filter that is not cleaned very well, the motor will suck that extra oil off and end up in the boot and motor,and look like just dirt. I've made that mistake.
I do a better job of cleaning them now
I do a better job of cleaning them now