pakk

iTrader: (80)

Understood. I think we all agree. Driver>car/equipment any day of the week. It has been proven over and over again.

But for normal mortal people like me, I don't think I will ever get to that level of driving. At least not anytime soon. So I wan't to squeeze every tenth out of my car. Also, knowing my equipement is the best it can possibly be, keeps my mind off the setup and more on the driving. It gives me one less thing to worry about on the track.

I can't remember whos sig says it, but it goes something like this.

"Your 10 years of experience might get you in first place, but my motor will get me in second."

And racenut, I think you are going to regret that. You just made yourself a new friend.

--pakk

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I agree completely. I am by no means among the fastest guys at my track, im somewhere in the middle of the pack. I usually qualify towards the bottom of the A main. And while I am certainly not a bullet around the track, I DO do everything that I can with my car to make sure that it, and it's electronics, aren't holding me back. The last thing you want to do is learn/improve your driving on a car that is horribly unbalanced or setup poorly. You might even be developing worse habbits trying to compensate for a car that isn't driving right.

So while my driving skill is what I need to work on MOST... that doesn't mean I don't/can't spend time with good electronics, car maintenance, etc...

But I tell you... you could give some of the guys at my track a Traxxas Slash with hockey pucks for tires, and they would beat the hell out of a lot of other drivers with perfectly setup TCs... you know who you are, fellas

bluephi1914

iTrader: (34)

+ 1

If you have an agressive driving style... you will want someone with a similar driving stlyle helping you set up your car. The setups might differ between a smooth driver versus an agressive driver.

When I first started, I had someone setup my car with the basic setup... Then I told them what I felt the car wasnt doing for me... i.e not turning fast enough, needed more traction, etc. then I asked them to help me fix those issues. After that, I drove my own car and just kept practicing. Make sure that you are involved in setting up your own car whatever you do. letting someone else totally setup your car will create problems for you later,

They will set it up for their exact style of driving... and their style will most likely be a little different than yours.

And that little will make a BIG difference.

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

I agree, this thread has drifted off of what you were asking in the first place. All good advice, but the better driving advice doesn't fit. Its a given that we ALL need to improve our driving skills. If someone ever thinks that is a area they don't need to work on anymore, there going to get passed. The advice given needs to focus back to chassis fine tuning. Things like tires for instance, even if being the most important thing...sometimes can't be helped. If you are at a race and they have handout poo poo tires you are in trouble

I think you want a more detailed system of chassis adjustments from people here on how they would dial there car in at a race when they are looking to improve there setup with some of the less used adjustments. The only thing is I think you would have to be more specific on what you want to know. Maybe you could ask questions like.. "If your car is loose what would you do first?" Or "If you want more on power steering what would you change first?" With the level of sophistication in touring cars right now there are a couple of changes some people may make that give close to the same result.

I have a good base setup that works pretty much everywhere for me. So when I do feel a change is in order, the only things I usually will alter is, shock positions, droop, ride height, camber and gearing ( if you have a tekin or spx you know what I mean about gearing)

redbones

In order of importance
1. Yourself
2. Tires
3. Suspension
4. Electrics
5. other mechanical (steering, drivetrain, etc)

actually, the last three is about a tie, but the first two is very important. If you are sure that your car is on par with the fast guys, it is all driver skill from there. Nothing can beat a good wheel no matter what class it is. Your car is important, but learn the three functions of a car. Acceleration, deceleration, and turning. And after that, PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. When you get to a certain level (minimal amount of crashing and driving the right lines) then you will understand what you really need to go faster.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Well, since it is related, I'll ask here. I think this is the kind of setup question he is asking about.

On my FT TC4 (VTA), I want to add just a tad more roll into the rear of the chassis, basically getting the car "dialed in" since I am happy with every other aspect of its handling.

The camber link is on the outermost mount on the chassis (shortest link possible).

Do I.......

1. Add shims underneath the inboard camber link?

OR......

2. Remove my shim from the upright's camber link?

OR......

3. Move the ballstud 1 position in to increase the camber link's length?

Perhaps this is an example of a question he wants answered? I could see where moving the ballstud inwards would be a more exaggerated setup change, but will adding shims inboard provide the same effect as removing shims from the upright?

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Yeah this question is more in line with what was being asked originally...from the adjustments you posted, I would lengthen the rear links by moving the inner ballstud inward first. Then after trying it out I would remove a shim from the inboard ballstud. Adding a equal thickness shim to the inboard ballstud that you remove from the upright will give you the same effect but to a extent. If you do not have enough shim height on the upright you can limit your suspension travel because the upright will hit the ballcup. As long as I have full suspension travel without binding, I wouldn't ever mess with the upright shims. Just adjust rollcenter with the inner ballcup shims.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Pakk,

I no longer drive an Xray, but I did for awhile. Anyway if you go to their website and look in the download section, they have a chart that shows a list of what order you should change items. Of course they also have their setup book which shows some valueable info also. I think that chart with the pink, and white and black boxes is what you want.

Steve

chris_dono

I'd do the opposite, adjust on the upright first, as the inner link seems to be a more drastic change.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Move the rear shock in one hole on the tower or lower the rear hinge pin mounts like .5mm if you want the car to roll more (throughout the turn) or raise it if you want it roll faster (take it's set quicker-this may seem like more)