12th scale gallery (Post your pics... body on and body off)
#347
Tech Master
Hi mate, I have a chassis here at at home that I was just about to send off to Fibre Lyte to get another made with the sides raised like your own! I thought it would be trick to have something like that, until I saw you have beaten me to it! I understand that your 'normal' chassis is like that but not a standard AE front end type chassis, so you beat me to it!Al the best though, it was a great idea...Chris.
#348
Tech Champion
Fiber Lite is still around? Cool. They used to make this really cool graphite with a kevlar honey comb core that was super light and stiff.
#349
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Link cars are great, but I do not drive them nor understand them fully. That's the big reason I wont dabble in links. There is no point in pretending that I know what I am doing there. I could build one, but I would be pretending.
T-bars on the other hand, I have a real good grasp on.
The MS2.3 is also a molded chassis with an included front lower arms. That car is actually very fast and still my favorite. It's super easy to work on and has options the others don't. But customers want to be able to break their cars whether they admit it or not. The molded front end scared too many customers away even though it held up better then most front ends. So after 4 years with the old chassis, I decided it's time to take advantage of the new front ends on the market. I was able to still use the chassis design I feel provides an advantage over a flat plate. I use less material and can produce a more rigid platform.
So Wingman.... go molded. It's worth the effort and quite an eye catcher.
T-bars on the other hand, I have a real good grasp on.
The MS2.3 is also a molded chassis with an included front lower arms. That car is actually very fast and still my favorite. It's super easy to work on and has options the others don't. But customers want to be able to break their cars whether they admit it or not. The molded front end scared too many customers away even though it held up better then most front ends. So after 4 years with the old chassis, I decided it's time to take advantage of the new front ends on the market. I was able to still use the chassis design I feel provides an advantage over a flat plate. I use less material and can produce a more rigid platform.
So Wingman.... go molded. It's worth the effort and quite an eye catcher.
#350
Very nicely done Brian!
#351
There are a lot of nice cars in this threat.
Here is a pic of my asso L4
I replaced the Hitec servo in the pics with a ko 949 and use a Team Tekin G-10 Pro+ esc. The receiver is an Ko KR302f.
Here is a pic of my asso L4
I replaced the Hitec servo in the pics with a ko 949 and use a Team Tekin G-10 Pro+ esc. The receiver is an Ko KR302f.
#352
mm, nice pit mat, my upgrade pit mat doesnt look half as good, i should order a custom decal for it.
Slapmaster, how do you bend the edges like that and what's its benefit, also can anyone answer this question, how do you get the carbon fiber shiny, or whats the difference between the shiny one, and the duller one?
Slapmaster, how do you bend the edges like that and what's its benefit, also can anyone answer this question, how do you get the carbon fiber shiny, or whats the difference between the shiny one, and the duller one?
#353
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Chassis is molded. I did not bend flat plate. I am trying something new with this chassis. I have polished aluminum male and female molds that I have machined. I lay up the chassis layer by layer opposing each layer at 45 degrees. When I get the desired layers done, I bolt the top to the bottom which has stops to prevent over tightening. I wipe off the excess resin and toss the entire thing in the oven for 3 hours. When it's done, it's fully cured and ready to be cut out. The shiny finish is how it comes out of the mold. It's not as shiny in person as the photos appears. You get some the carbon cloth right on the surface. Any carbon that is shiny, likely has additional surface resin applied to it which is purely cosmetic. I could spray a clear laquer to the chassis. That would look amazing! The benefits to doing a molded chassis is taking advantage of the strength of a tub. Anytime you bend a corner into a thin piece of material, you can add strength to it. Take a piece of paper, just pick it up from one end. It bends or lays over. Now take the same piece, bend the two edges up 90 degrees creating a U shape channel. Now you pick it up from the end and it does not lay over. The paper does not weigh anymore, it just now has a shape that gave it strength. Same goes with this chassis. I have an .080" chassis that weighs 1.7 ounces. I just weighed my C12 that is flat plate at 2.2 ounces made from .125" thick material. The flex of the chassis is near identical. Taking advantage of the rolled edges allows me to reduce the footprint of the chassis. It allows the car to roll more without contacting the carpet as quick, which prevents double steering and scrubbing the nose on corner entry equalling faster corner speed.
Thanks James!
Brian
Thanks James!
Brian
#354
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
mm, nice pit mat, my upgrade pit mat doesnt look half as good, i should order a custom decal for it.
Slapmaster, how do you bend the edges like that and what's its benefit, also can anyone answer this question, how do you get the carbon fiber shiny, or whats the difference between the shiny one, and the duller one?
Slapmaster, how do you bend the edges like that and what's its benefit, also can anyone answer this question, how do you get the carbon fiber shiny, or whats the difference between the shiny one, and the duller one?
Car looks great brian.
#356
Shotki Diode
Hi guy,
I have a question regarding shotki diode. I am running, of course, 1/12 with KO VFS ESC with 12x1 turn reedy motor. Is it okay to use single shotki diode instead of double shotki diode? Thanks!!!!
I have a question regarding shotki diode. I am running, of course, 1/12 with KO VFS ESC with 12x1 turn reedy motor. Is it okay to use single shotki diode instead of double shotki diode? Thanks!!!!
#357
The shiny C/F and satin finish are identicle materials. The satin has a film over the panel when it is made that gives it that finish. Without that film,it comes out shiny. when you remove the film off of the satin panel it will give you your satin finish
Car looks great brian.
Car looks great brian.
#358
New "Kid" On the Block . . .
My RC12L4 . . . built couple weeks ago, got the body fitted this afternoon, no pics . . .
Trusty L3 whimpering in the corner . . .
Lookin pretty okay except for those 12 year old "state of the art" 1700 NiCds
Watching paint dry . . . sucked up onto my cooktop exhaust fan . . .
Trusty L3 whimpering in the corner . . .
Lookin pretty okay except for those 12 year old "state of the art" 1700 NiCds
Watching paint dry . . . sucked up onto my cooktop exhaust fan . . .
#359
#360