Cookie

Hi Wombat, good to hear from you.
Yep, will see you in Canberra, should be awesome fun.
How has your racing been?

Here's a little bit of info about: Anti-squat

Hope it helps.

I always run mine at 3deg but have only tested it once at 0.5 and I just liked the feel of the car at 3deg better.
The front anti/dive you cannot change, do you mean active castor? I usually run the standard castor, but definitely try both to see what you think.

I always run the droop screws as the droop limiters not the shocks bottoming out. This is easier to adjust, more even/consistent and yes I guess it would ensure the pistons don't accidentally get re-adjusted.

With the rear tower on the front the longer shocks are ok because of the increased distance. I don't know how much up travel I get, I think it is enough because the bumper/chassis corners get worn so I assume that the suspension compresses enough to allow that!

Pedro 51

Thanks Seaball & Cookie.

I'll get on with the assembling.

black-knight

When it comes to Anti-Squat i prefer the .5 degree setting. I prefer the more settled feel of the car through sweeping corners.


Hey Cookie: We had a race on the weekend at Helles Park, it was the first real test for my new C4.1, and it was flying, i was able to give Darrin Campbell and Stewart Grant a run for their money! I ended up 2nd overall behind Darrin, but it was fast, close and tidy racing!

It was also the first run for my 10x3 Core and Ultra Metal cells.

I'm putting in a big effort for the Nationals and Roorda States this year, between now and the big events, we will get to race min once a month at Helles and as it get's warmer we will travel to Canberra for club meetings.


-Paul

todb

iTrader: (68)

does anyone here have a conversion that they would like to blow out. I have a C4AG that I have had for a long time but have used very little. if not a good small track setup please. Thanks

Cookie

Hey everyone,

I have finally got around to scanning my piccies from the South Africa Worlds and posted them on my website.........

Corally_27

Hi ppl

I own a coralley c4.1 and i think it is a great car when it is seted up correctly , i have a big problem with mine it tend to slide on one side from the back(only on the right) in small corners i cant find what this car have can some one help me pls

bye for now from very hot sunny malta

Cookie

Yes I know the prob you are having.

I always found the car oversteered when turning left and understered when turning right (Is this what you had or was it opposite?)
This is due to the diagonal polar moment of inertia that the battery placement creates.

I went the drastic approach carbon dremelling so I could move the battery configuration to side by side so the weight is evenly distributed and it has been perfect ever since.

But for more realistic solutions:
* you can add lead to the back left and front right parts of the chassis to distribute the weight better.
* tweak the car so that it is inclined to turn right easier in an attempt to neutralise the left oversteer - i.e. screw down the spring retainer on the front right shock
* setup the car so that it pushes slightly and you won't notice the problem quite as much

These aren't brilliant solutions I know but it should help a bit.
Anybody else got better ideas?

ahibj8

If we can get the numbers Illawarra will run a Mod class next year, we are looking at 12 turn and IFMAR regs.

www.imcc.org.au

Scottyj Team Hobbyx

seaball

iTrader: (9)

good to hear from you cookie. i think i will make a chassis before i even run it. not only because i prefer a neutral car, but i found the front three screw holes ripped out from it's origial owner crashing. the bulkheads won't sit flat. did you run the saddles exactly next to each other? that would mean that the passenger side 3 would have to move up about a 1/2 a cell, right. the left rear bulk is a little longer than the right. i'll have to look at your pics again. and like i said, i dig your ride, so i'll begin dremeling the rear tower soon. the longer shocks provide more stroke, not that the pivot ball susp can use it all, since the pistion doesn't hit the cap early. i can't wait to get it running. i think i'll rebuild it with stainless socket screws. i got a bunch from mcmaster-carr for my kxone a while back. those kit screws were softer than lead. anyway, keep up the posts.

Cookie

Yes that's correct seaball, the right hand bank of three cells I moved forward to align exactly with the left three which pretty much touch the left gearbox bracket.

The battery tray I made and mounted has slots on the side instead of holes so I can actually move the pack within a range of about 12 mm forward from touching against the left gearbox.
I have found that I like the reward most position the best. This gives good rear end grip and actually seems to allow the car to change direction faster.

I got the C4.1 screw kit from Titanium Racing
This is absolutely awesome quality, although not cheap!

Corally_27

Hi ppl it's me again from very hot Malta.

Thanks cookie for your good ideas I think I will do an other chasse to put the batteries in line with each other on the rear of the car.

But this make me think that the car could be too liter on the front. Am I supposing right?


Sorry for my bad English
Hope to hear you
Regards

Cookie

Making the battery tray side by side takes a lot of dremelling so be prepared!!

It will be a little lighter up front, but the speedy and receiver are further forward and you can add weight more forward as well.

I always try to lighten the car as much as possible, to get it as far underweight as possible and this allows you to add lead where you want it. I usually put most of lead in between and around the electronics making sure it doesn't rub on the belt of course! And I also mount the transponder low and up the front in a cut out I made at the back of the foam bumper.

I find the balance is pretty good and there is plenty of steering especially when running the rear shock tower up front and stand up shocks as described below in this thread. I have tried sliding my battery tray forward and don't like it as the rear end grip is worse and the change of direction becomes sluggish.

Most of the top line tourers these days seem to be going towards the full length battery down the chassis length, so ultimately this may be better. The new Corally is to have this configuration. Although remember that the current World Championship winning car, from Tamiya has side by side saddles......go figure! It's all a matter of setting up the car to suit it's design and your driving style.

seaball

iTrader: (9)

word!

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Anyone interested in an all carbon fiber 12M 1/12th scale car (and parts), be sure to check out the FOR SALE section...

seaball

iTrader: (9)

hey,
where can i get some extra plastic battery holders? the ones that fit in the chassis slots. i've decided to cut some custom chassis and i want to incorproate these into the designs.