Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Thanks for the clarification Randy... misinformation was starting to fly like a wild hose around here!

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Just my .02 here, but I think it's the preference and driving style from one person to another. I myself like how you can change back to an earlier software version if you like. Keeps the options wide open, and thats why the RS speedo's are the hottest on the market. They are keeping the racer in mind, and with the economy the way it is, I'm willing to bet everyone is watching their racing budget. With the hotwire feature and free software updates, that budget can go alot farther now. Way to go Team Tekin, and keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

e4rs

iTrader: (2)

Hi randy,

As of my last post i went back to the 189 instead of 194 i went with full boost on speedy 0 on motor as i ran with the 194 software. i raced tonight close to same conditions as the night before and the temps on the motor where down by 15 degs and it was so much farster and it rev its nuts off so how from going back to 189 software made it go alot better.thanks

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Damn you worked it out

wolfman864

I just purchased a Tekin RC Pro ESC to run a 1/12 scale single cell LiPo with a 13.5.

I ran one pack on it and it ran great, with a roll out of 101.04, and the motor came off the track at 120 F at 6 minutes.

The problem that I'm having, is after letting everything cool off, I try to go out again, but the 5 led's in a row from the mode button to the left are flashing, and the get brighter when I spin the rear tire. I get power to the servo, but nothing to the motor.

I am running a novac booster, all three leads are in the reciever correctly, and I cut the switch out of the ESC and taped the wires to keep them from touching.

After the issues started, I pulled the hot wire out of the reciever and let the ESC switch wires touch and still having the same thing.

I HAVE NOT double powered the car yet. I'm stumped. I tryed syncing the ESC to my computer but I get an error code. Any insight would be great. Thanks in advance, Todd.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I had the same problem today. It just seemed to work at random times; like if I left it alone for a while and came back it would work, but if I turned it off and back on via the booster switch, it would do just like you described. I tried all the combinations of switches on and off, and the order that I plugged things in, but other than walking away and then coming back later, nothing seemed to work

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

He Randy, two questions:

1) I am running the latest version and will be racing 17.5 (redline) sedan on a semi-loose track... Do you recommend sensored only mode? Right now I have it set to sensord only mode, 30 timing (max) in hotwire, 0 on can. yeah or neah?

2) There are two settings in the hotwire I would like some info on. One is drag break, and one is the coast assist setting (I forget the exact name). It seems to me, that these two settings sort of counterdict eachother. One adds natural drag, the other one resists natural drag. How do you recommend running these two settings?

Thanks!

Cpt.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

your referring to push control/anti drag brake,it adds a small amount of power through the corner (in lam-ens terms it lets you coast through the corner with out powering through it)it is some thing you should play with at the track

2wdrive

my understanding of push control was that it worked only with brushed motors and that it softens the off power drag of brushed motors. That was explained by someone from tekin. Did they change that ? The way you explained it it would be a usefull setup option to tinker with if they changed it.

wolfman864

At least I'm not the only one...I let mine sit overnight and still wouldn't work. After I posted I set up a 2cell reciever pack and still wouldn't go. I also read that if you update the CPU software you have to uninstall then reinstall the programmer to get it to work right, but what's going through my head now is will that issue cause the esc to act the way it is now

Dragula426

iTrader: (4)

1) With a loose track I would set the 17.5 motor at 12* and the speed control at 15* and leave it in sensored only mode. With 0* and 30*, it will make a loose condition worse.

2) As stated, it good to do that testing at the track. The push control will be somthing you will use and large tracks with sweeping turns, so the front of the car does not drop too much and cause oversteer condition. If its a tight track and the car is pushy getting into the turns, its good to set the drag brake higher as it will cause the weight to transfer to the front tires when you lift, and get the car to turn in more.

Wall Banger

iTrader: (1)

You need to turn the Lipo cut off to OFF and turn the esc switch off. The voltage from the 1s lipo is not high enough, The esc is turning the voltage for the motor down to use for the servo and receiver.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I have the slider bar for lipo cut-off set to off, but I have the 1s checkbox checked. I tried it with the esc switch on and off to no avail. I imagine the problem could be related to the beta 198 software. I'll go back to 194 and try it again.

Wall Banger

iTrader: (1)

There is a bug in 198 with the 1s check box. Was it working with 194? or did you change the way the booster is wired in? The booster goes between the battery and the receiver. The flashing lights mean low battery voltage.

Good luck

wolfman864

The voltage cutoff was disabled on mine. But now when I try to apply new settings I get the error codes.