507LikesTamiya M-07 Concept
07-28-2017, 04:58 PM
#197
I'm on step 3 or 4 of my build now. The foam is hokey. As is the aluminum glass tape. What's the purpose of this tape? I didn't see any included with the kit.
Did you guys use the molybdenum grease on the plastic gears? Seems a little thick for my liking. I typically use Tamiya ceramic grease or white lithium on plastic gears.
Did you guys use the molybdenum grease on the plastic gears? Seems a little thick for my liking. I typically use Tamiya ceramic grease or white lithium on plastic gears.
I didn't bother greasing my gears.
07-28-2017, 07:13 PM
#198
I use silicone lubricant on my gears in all of my minis. Never seems to harm anything.
For my front steering links I removed 1.5mm from the plastic part, so I could run front toe out.
I want to try raising the inner link ballstuds front and rear and see what changes on the car
I use the HPI Honda Civic 225mm body or the Ride BRZ cut to 225mm. Orher popular body is the Blitz VW GTI.
Also have the cf shock towers to fit and test.
There are a couple of setup sheets from Japan floating around, but I can not read them.
Later
50 cal
For my front steering links I removed 1.5mm from the plastic part, so I could run front toe out.
I want to try raising the inner link ballstuds front and rear and see what changes on the car
I use the HPI Honda Civic 225mm body or the Ride BRZ cut to 225mm. Orher popular body is the Blitz VW GTI.
Also have the cf shock towers to fit and test.
There are a couple of setup sheets from Japan floating around, but I can not read them.
Later
50 cal
07-29-2017, 12:23 AM
#199
The Tamiya titanium screw kit is really nice, but it's a rip off since it's not 100% complete. So far there are 6 screws that weren't included in the kid. There are even more if you count grubs, balls, links, etc.
07-29-2017, 08:28 AM
#201
First Complaint
Dudes man,
After looking around and found that dealers are selling these kits to be around $180 for a basic kit, I'm going to have to think twice about the mini class.
I thought that the whole purpose of the class was to keep chassis cheap and competitive, around $100 without radio and battery. At the $180 price range, why can't other mini's join in on the race?
Just my rant dudes.
After looking around and found that dealers are selling these kits to be around $180 for a basic kit, I'm going to have to think twice about the mini class.
I thought that the whole purpose of the class was to keep chassis cheap and competitive, around $100 without radio and battery. At the $180 price range, why can't other mini's join in on the race?
Just my rant dudes.
07-29-2017, 09:38 AM
#202
Tech Master
iTrader: (94)
Another rainy day on the east coast. racing cancelled. I decided to take a look at the drivetrain to check for any spots that may be touching or wearing down and noticed that the bottom diff cover section had a little 'half moon' molded into it... as if it was intended to house a 25mm fan. Out of curiosity I fitted a spare 25mm fan in that area. Fit perfect, like a glove and blows air directly onto the side of the motor. Better cooling airflow than any other mini. Be sure to move the battery as far back as possible. I double side tape my pack in. Anyway, thought I'd share.
07-29-2017, 04:13 PM
#203
Dudes man,
After looking around and found that dealers are selling these kits to be around $180 for a basic kit, I'm going to have to think twice about the mini class.
I thought that the whole purpose of the class was to keep chassis cheap and competitive, around $100 without radio and battery. At the $180 price range, why can't other mini's join in on the race?
Just my rant dudes.
After looking around and found that dealers are selling these kits to be around $180 for a basic kit, I'm going to have to think twice about the mini class.
I thought that the whole purpose of the class was to keep chassis cheap and competitive, around $100 without radio and battery. At the $180 price range, why can't other mini's join in on the race?
Just my rant dudes.
Why can't other minis join in? Depends on what your actual class rules are. Some places do allow other minis. But the Tamiya only classes were seeded by Tamiya and their classes are always Tamiya only.
07-29-2017, 09:34 PM
#204
Another rainy day on the east coast. racing cancelled. I decided to take a look at the drivetrain to check for any spots that may be touching or wearing down and noticed that the bottom diff cover section had a little 'half moon' molded into it... as if it was intended to house a 25mm fan. Out of curiosity I fitted a spare 25mm fan in that area. Fit perfect, like a glove and blows air directly onto the side of the motor. Better cooling airflow than any other mini. Be sure to move the battery as far back as possible. I double side tape my pack in. Anyway, thought I'd share.
You never mentioned you're a genius.
07-30-2017, 02:07 AM
#205
Another rainy day on the east coast. racing cancelled. I decided to take a look at the drivetrain to check for any spots that may be touching or wearing down and noticed that the bottom diff cover section had a little 'half moon' molded into it... as if it was intended to house a 25mm fan. Out of curiosity I fitted a spare 25mm fan in that area. Fit perfect, like a glove and blows air directly onto the side of the motor. Better cooling airflow than any other mini. Be sure to move the battery as far back as possible. I double side tape my pack in. Anyway, thought I'd share.
07-30-2017, 07:39 AM
#207
hey Markus. I like the suggestion of mounting the fan behind the motor as in your photo. Have you tried it? my only concern is the use of a 25mm fan (just don't have one) but once the battery is in, is there any airflow for the intake? does the batter block the airflow?