glennhl

iTrader: (16)

I'm heading to Indy in May and taking my TC6.2 USGT car to run on a carpet track. I normally run asphalt outdoors. The TC6.2 has the factory mods with TC4/TC5 arms. I am currently using the Randy Caster setup that Caveleri used at the Tamiya track in California. What setup should I use for carpet?
Thanks,
Glenn

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

For those wanting to upgrade their 6 to the new suspension parts:



RSD TC6.2 to TC7 Upgrade chassis kit. Includes Chassis, top deck, rear belt and battery brackets.

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Is the chassis symmetrical for flex reasons? BTW looks great.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Yup, we want it to flex as much as possible

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

I guess because of the twitchy behaviour?

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

This is what everyone is doing these days, but I have to admit, I've never understood it. On a full size car, the manufacturers work extremely hard to make the chassis as stiff as possible. That way you can control the stiffness of the car at the corners by changing out springs, shock settings, and sway bars. If the chassis is flexible, it's harder to control. Maybe someone much smarter than me can explain why on RC cars, chassis flex is your friend???

Thanks.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I think if you can make your car work with a stiff chassis is will usually be faster than a flexy chassis car but a it's easier to make a car work ok with chassis flex. That's my personal opinion

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is easier to make it work, because shock and roll center height tuning become less effective. So if you make the roll center height difference too big flex is needed to make the car behave normally.

In our case I've been running the rear roll center height quite a bit higher, it's too low base setup wise. The front is too stiff and when you start cornering the rear wants to twist the front, hence applying even more weight in the front outside tire and make it turn in hard. Having read in this thread about the front outside wheel lifting in corners it means the rear is dumping through insufficient roll stiffness. I don't mean to belittle Christian's work, he's doing a good job that works on track but we might address the culprit instead of disregarding the elephant in the room

nova69

thats nice suspension upgrade.

Scostin

Just built a 6.2 and went to mount body I had painted for the 6 and noticed it would not fit. Ordered a HPI 66 Mustang but can not get it to fit properly using the kit body post, have trimmed wheel wells all way up to fender and still will rub on top notch in front body post. Any suggestions or tips as to what I am missing on this?

Kevin Marcy

Many VTA bodies (especially Mustangs) need taller body posts. Or you can put spacers under the ones you've got.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

I added 3mm (id) aluminum spacers under the front body posts until they projected far enough up to support my body. You could make spacers from anything including styrene tubing. I had to go WAY up to fit a Challenger body, so I needed LONG flat-head (countersunk) screws, something like 25mm long.

RS_ZACH

iTrader: (25)

Anyone have a roller for sale?

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I have one. PM me an email address and I'll send you a pic

glennhl

iTrader: (16)

OK, I did the TC4/TC5 suspension arm upgrade that the factory team did before the TC7 came out. Has anyone done a TC7 arm upgrade on the TC6.2. If so, could you post some photos? Thanks.