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Old 09-02-2008, 06:52 AM
  #481  
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i usually run softer front tires like 32f and 35r depending on the track. but Im usually always running a softer shore on front, that way the front have the grip and are pulling you out of the turns rather than the rear pushing you out
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Old 09-06-2008, 01:58 PM
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When do you decide it's time to throw away your clutch spring?
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Old 09-07-2008, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sm1nts2escape
When do you decide it's time to throw away your clutch spring?
Yea, I also want to know. I have 12 clutch springs accumulated since 2004.
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Old 09-17-2008, 12:54 PM
  #484  
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Hello So Cal racers

I have a new MRX-4 for sale with engine, digital servos, pipe and header, new unpainted body extra set of tires GOOD PRICE must sale ready to run

PM me for more info or go to Crystal Park on sunday 9/21/08


Lewis B.
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:21 AM
  #485  
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Originally Posted by sm1nts2escape
When do you decide it's time to throw away your clutch spring?
i have discarded springs if their free length has been reduced. the stiffness doesn't change but it limits the preload you can get before it coil bounds.

i have heard of some springs that sag unevenly but i haven't seen it. (the free length would be different on one side)
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:14 PM
  #486  
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Originally Posted by lcb_2208
Hello So Cal racers

I have a new MRX-4 for sale with engine, digital servos, pipe and header, new unpainted body extra set of tires GOOD PRICE must sale ready to run

PM me for more info or go to Crystal Park on sunday 9/21/08


Lewis B.
This car is a MRX-4R,
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:23 PM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by avs
i have discarded springs if their free length has been reduced. the stiffness doesn't change but it limits the preload you can get before it coil bounds.

i have heard of some springs that sag unevenly but i haven't seen it. (the free length would be different on one side)
The sagging happens with the MSR/JP spring. What are you guys running?
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Old 09-19-2008, 03:08 AM
  #488  
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Orion CRF spring in the three shoe.
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:36 AM
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Have no Idea on that one? I measure it when it comes out of the bag (free length). When it has lost a millimeter of free length I replace it. Some people wait until it has shrunk 2mm then replace it. Some change it before every main. Or you can just keep on running it until it fatigues. You'll know when this happens; because it will go soft on you in the middle of a tank. Tighten it and it will go soft again.
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Old 09-20-2008, 03:11 AM
  #490  
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Can some one please explain rear bearing position as in the setup sheet.
What to you have to do to go from .5mm to 1mm , its not explained that well.
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Old 09-20-2008, 10:01 AM
  #491  
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Thanks
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Old 09-20-2008, 11:08 AM
  #492  
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After taking the summer off from 1:8 onroad, I'm slowly getting sorted for next summer racing. I know, it's early, but I like to plan ahead

Anyway, I've acquired two Mugen rollers. One is a MRX4-R and the other a MRX4-X. This is based on what the sellers (two different sellers) told me in detailed conversations, as well as the box and owners manuals that came with each kit.

Looking at each roller side by side, I'm having a very difficult time seeing any difference. I know the -X is just an update, but are their any easy to spot, visual differences between the two versions?

My goal is to have two of the same kits (both -X). One runner, one spare roller for parts. I'm not certain how critical it is to sell the -R kit I have for another -X, as I know there are subtle difference that will not be 100% compatible. Just looking to see how much of a difference...

thanks in advance-
Eric
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Old 09-20-2008, 11:17 AM
  #493  
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Most noticeable differences are rear shocks and tower, chassis, receiver pack mount and front shock tower..
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Old 09-20-2008, 11:30 AM
  #494  
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got it. even with those specific pointers, I had to look close...

so for the -R acting as as my donor for spares...are normal 'track consumables' like arms, belts, pulleys the same?
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Old 09-20-2008, 02:23 PM
  #495  
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Yes. Though you need to take a look at the steering blocks and rear hubs (or uprights). Early R's did not have the extra scrub shims that the X does.
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