wtcc

iTrader: (2)

The 6.2 is not a bad car
From the first build on it will be very nice to drive with clear response to all setupchanges. So for a beginner or reentry driver this is a plus.

What counts against this beautyful chassis is, that it needs a lot of time to perfectly adapt it on your driving style and catching the last two tenth. Especially the corner entry and middle corner turning were hard for me increase to a top spot competitive level. My guess is the huge amount of flex this chassis has in comparison to the 6.1 for example (the Yokomo BD7 is also stiffer and has therefore a smaller setup window, but comes already with a very good basic setup).

So the 6.2 is a competitive car and can easily outpace every other chassis on the market if you diligently work with it. Not to forget it has a nice price and parts availability

Svendc

The RSD Top Deck is Stiffer than the original unit and increases the response and overall steering of your TC6.2.

For high grip surfaces is this big +1.
The Flex of the chassis with the stock topdeck is hugh.

Anyone who has tested this RSD topdack allready?

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

I tested it with the aluminum chassis as well as their arm system. The top deck is a tad stiffer but I think what made the difference between the two is that the rsd top deck has a different design so It has different characteristics which I liked. I haven't done many back to back tests mostly because I liked how the car felt with the rsd one over the stock one.

nicorozog

i´ve done almost everything we used to do, to eliminate the bubbles of my shocks. After build them, seems to be good, but, after the race, or practice, shocks starts to sound really bad, in fact, i can feel the bubbles in my finger, when i try to move up side down the shock shaft.

The last tip was, sanding about 0.1mm of the O-Ring spacer, and it didn´t work out. Is important use the low friction orings? reflex soft bladders? those upgrades will solve the problem?

Thanks.

Dan Hamann

iTrader: (27)

Reflex bladders and O-rings may help. Also crucial to make sure all the air makes it out from below the piston. Either use a shock pump or let the shocks sit for an extended period before setting the bladders. Reflex bladders make it a lot easier to see if there is any air in the shock.

thejo3

iTrader: (18)

I tried to setup my tc6.2 with the ars suspension and it seems like I'm getting a 9mm ride height in the rear even with the shock collor at the top. droop is set at 5mm rear. otherwise it is the same geometry as stock setup

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

The Reflex bladders should cure your problem.


Picture please.

thejo3

iTrader: (18)

Here arr the pictures... I pushed the car and here is what I get: 9mm ride height (front is correct, 5mm)

Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

have you tried the ae spring retainers ?

it looks like there is too much load on the springs with the retainers you have.

ed

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Another thing you can do when the spring cups are up that high is cut down the turnbuckle eyelets a bit to bring them back down. I did this when I started using aluminum spring cups. That should eliminate the preload.

jonston

iTrader: (4)

I had the same problem. I ended up swapping out the standard shocks for TRF short shocks. car works great now.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

I bought a used car that someone had put RPM spring cups on. I had the same problem until I changed them.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

In addition to the wrong spring retainers, you are now combining front arms with the rear shock tower and the mounting points are different. The mounting points are normally much further outward on the rear arms which accommodates the lower shock tower mounting points.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

Yupp, Yodog is right!
If you look at my conversation (some pages back), you will see that I drilled new holes for the ballstud to allow for a correct geometry. Then
your ride height problem will go away without having to buy new stuff

What to do:
1. Measure the distance between inner pin and ballstud hole of the rear suspension arm.
2. Drill a M2.5mm hole in the same distance into the front suspension arm.
3. Install everything and check if the lower damper touches the suspension arm. If it does just add a 1mm spacer.
4. Enjoy

WildManDriving

iTrader: (30)

What are the Pro's and Con's of this mod?

Regards
M.Ellis