What motor for a heavy savage xl?
03-07-2013, 10:16 PM
#46
i just posted a pic in my previous post so u can see the gap. let me know what u think
03-07-2013, 10:17 PM
#47
Generally, if you make the idle gap smaller, you have to adjust the LSN.. So if your idle gap is too big, making it smaller might get you just right. You want - IMO - the idle gap as small as possible. If it were me, and as you say the gap is big looking, I would start by trying to close it just a tiny tiny bit, then see what happens.. If it gets boggy or whatever, then maybe make some - again, tiny tiny.. - adjustments to the LSN to compensate.. If that doesn't work, try to go back to where you were and just wait for warmer weather ha ha... As I said, I don't think it's that off as is..
03-07-2013, 10:22 PM
#48
It looks OK. I don't know to be honest. I would just experiment. I have lots of different engines, and on my basher engines - LRP, Mach, Big Red, 454 - the idle gap is probably similar. On my buggy race engines, I try to make it a fair bit smaller.
So again, if you don't want to mess with the idle gap, richen the LSN a tiny bit - incrementally - and see what happens. If that doesn't work, put the LSN back to where you had it, and try lowering the idle a tiny bit, then compensate on the LSN as necessary.. Trial and error.. Anyway, sorry I can't be more specific.. I just keep making tiny adjustments til it sounds right.. Sound and smoke are the most important things. If it sounds right, it's generally running right.., and if it's running right, performance and temps should be OK..
So again, if you don't want to mess with the idle gap, richen the LSN a tiny bit - incrementally - and see what happens. If that doesn't work, put the LSN back to where you had it, and try lowering the idle a tiny bit, then compensate on the LSN as necessary.. Trial and error.. Anyway, sorry I can't be more specific.. I just keep making tiny adjustments til it sounds right.. Sound and smoke are the most important things. If it sounds right, it's generally running right.., and if it's running right, performance and temps should be OK..
03-07-2013, 10:24 PM
#49
Ok thanks man i really apreciate ur time. Ive been tuning engines a long time but im no pro. I have a hard time some times but i think ive come a long way lol. Its not hard but it can be a pain too.. Especially if u never did it before .. Or u buy a used engine on its last leg and dont know it
03-07-2013, 10:25 PM
#50
I'm sure there are guys here who can tune better than I can. I'm far from perfect at it..
Assuming everything is mechanically in order, the biggest obstacle to tuning is just psychological: it's worrying about it and thinking it's some kind of black magic. It's not, so don't be afraid to touch the needles(though you have to be kind of easy on the LSN..) If you get all out of whack just go back to flush on both needles and start again.. Like many things, it's learning by doing, trial and error, etc.. But it's not rocket science, so people shouldn't be afraid of it.
Assuming everything is mechanically in order, the biggest obstacle to tuning is just psychological: it's worrying about it and thinking it's some kind of black magic. It's not, so don't be afraid to touch the needles(though you have to be kind of easy on the LSN..) If you get all out of whack just go back to flush on both needles and start again.. Like many things, it's learning by doing, trial and error, etc.. But it's not rocket science, so people shouldn't be afraid of it.
03-07-2013, 10:42 PM
#51
yeah. i will mess with it again when i get some more nice weather.. its snowing here.. again.. i just cant wait till its warm out and i can run my truck lol..
03-09-2013, 04:07 PM
#52
im messing with the idle trying to get it just right.. what am i doing wrong. in this vid i only mess with the lsn and idle screws.. how close am i?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtVIaitTqUQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtVIaitTqUQ
03-10-2013, 08:42 AM
#53
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Idling kinda low. If you have to blip the throttle to keep it idling good than maybe open it up a bit. Idle gap should be in the .7-1mm range somewhere. Alot of guys keep it simple and just set it to 1 mm using a credit card to check (apparently credit cards are 1 mm thick). As long as you can pick the truck up during idle and the wheels arent turning and the spur and clutch bell arent twitching the idle gap isn't too big. If you see twitching the idle is too high and the clutchis slightly engaging the bell. You don't want that cause it will wear the shoes down. You also want to make sure you have consistant temp drops during idle.
This is the method I used.
Tuning guide
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=83174
Idle gap how to
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=89140
This is the method I used.
Tuning guide
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=83174
Idle gap how to
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=89140
03-10-2013, 08:58 AM
#54
Ya i got the idle figured out now. My lsn was just a smidge too rich. It wil idle all day now
03-10-2013, 09:24 AM
#56
I think it looks good with the shift points.. Nice acceleration and shifting to a good top end..
03-10-2013, 09:27 AM
#57
Im running badlands. I have the flm lcg ext chassis tho i just noticed that last night so maybe thats why it wont wheelie so much. But i bet when i get on some grass or dirt it might wheelie. Someone told me the gearing looks short/ low. So i may try the 17/47 gearing. I have my shocks set to the middle position too
03-10-2013, 11:06 AM
#59
Yeah true. Honestly im not that worried about wheelies it just means it will handle better now that the front end is planted. But i do plan on gettin a picco 28 in the near future.
