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iTrader: (1)

looks awesome!!

pickled

well it's about 9pm gonna head down to my drift space for some night drifting lol. Started trying to learn how to do mungi's not sure if correct spelling but you know what I mean! As my tyres get lower it seems to drift better.

RC-Jay

Thanks for the Info! I got my D3 kit yesterday along with all my orange aluminum parts for my Sprint 2, so I will finish my sprint2 since it now has almost every hopup then start my D3 build. Excited for CS! -

Any specific electronics I should be looking for when moving to CS? or would my Savox servo & Castle 5700kv brushless 4pole w/ esc work fine for control?

I have the castle link and could always tune down the power. for 50/50 im using 100% power and 50% brake.

pickled

that will work! lolz. I run a 5.5T 6000Kv brushless non-sensored yeah racing motor and 60A esc at 100% and 50% brake It's a bit overpowered but great for really long drifts. Savox are a good brand. I only have a cheap $30 dollar hi-speed servo. I just turn the power down via my radio even tho I have the program card I set it up for soft punch throttle so I don't strip belts. brakes won't do much good after you install a oneway the front just coasts. It stops better if you let go of the throttle and steer left or right the rear locks up like an e-brake and slides to a stop if your not going to quick or it might do a 360. You will probably end up getting high angle CVD's for it too the stock ones cause chatter at full lock but the oneway does reduce it. I'm using Tamiya TRF Double Cardins but Sakura XI SSK's (SAK-X27) work just the same and reduce the chatter to zero as well as having a higher turning angle than the stock CVD's.

After you build your D3 your probably going to want to CS your sprint too. CS is harder to drive if your used to drifting 50/50 so be prepared to spin out lots I've had mine running for about 4 weeks and taking out to my local carpark/Drifting space for about a week every day sometimes twice a day and I'm only starting to come to grips with it and line up for drifts around obstacles etc.

I'm glad I ordered the alloy suspension mounts the other day. I hit a metal speed bump plate in the carpark today and chipped the rear right mount almost all the way down to the pin, It happened when it spun out and rolled backwards at speed into the plate. But it's ok still works can't see the pin

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sgp-chris

Hi guys,

I'm new to drifting, but I think it could be a fun thing for me to do this winter. I normally run 1/8 nitro buggies, but my local track has closed for the season duo to the wet whether.

I like drifting, so why not try it, right

I really like the D3 chassis, and im planning on buying one from RCMART.

But before i do that, i have read trough this entire thread, and it's a little confusing to me with all the CS Ratio's and shock setups.

Is there a kind soul, who could make me a list of parts to get right away?

The car will be run on concrete, so I need a setup that will work on that

I can't find that bloody oneway anywhere, where are you guys getting it from? It's out of stock averywhere i look

I have already bought a Hobbywing EZRUN B2 combo set for this car, I hope it will be powerfull enough. I saw some guy on youtube building a TEH-R31 on a budget, and he used that combo. It's a 9T motor, with a 35A ESC. Fingers crossed you guys approve

I hope you will help me set up my D3, and make my adventure into the world of rc drifting a bit smoother

Cheers

PS: Sorry for any spelling mistakes, I try my best

pickled

Hi If you run buggies then you should already have a camber gauge and ride height droop gauge so you can setup the chassis. The oneway will be hard to get hold of now as all D3 owners have probably read this thread and are trying to get their hands on 1! Don't worry about CS ratio's for now try to learn on the Stock ratio before you decide to change it. I would just build the kit and test it out for yourself before you get extra stuff.
The option parts aren't available yet anyway we are just using parts that fit from other Sakura cars.
When you do build this chassis be aware there is an error in the instruction manual that says to put the softer shock oil in the front shocks when in actual fact it goes into the rear. You will need to have access to a dremel or similar, to grind flats on the pins that hold the CVD's together and to grind flats on the pulley shafts later if you decide to go alloy pulleys.
Don't worry to much about the shock setups, do as it is in the instructions for now get it running then you can tweak it till you find a setting you like. Grab some 1mm washers for the under rear pulley mount if you experience a loose centre belt. And when you buy your kit grab some extra belts as spares, can never have enough spare parts lol.

your 9t motor should work fine but maybe look at a 60A esc. just try yours out to see if can cope.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

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that's why I like having that rear diffuser (acts like a bumper somewhat) and having a body on when practicing...helps as buffer...I suffered a worse fate before on my Zero S and broke the mount and lower A arm...so I feel you.

spring71

iTrader: (3)

More D3 Spares and Hopups are available.

FYI, Thanks.

pickled

lol I had the body on but the plate was the right size for it to fit under the rear of the shell at mount height. It's alright I put my real car in the way now so I avoid it all together. The diffuser sticks out to far and doesn't suit my shell So will continue to leave it off. I can still use the car it hasn't had an effect on the suspension so far the arms are pretty tough I've hit walls and door frames with the wheels and they haven't parted with the chassis yet lol. I got the alloy mounts comin any way!

Got drift practice night at my LHS so I'm lookin forward to getting it around the track and show off how much better I can handle it now lol?

sgp-chris

How will a 60A ESC benefit me? Sorry I'm new to the electric stuff, so I just want to learn

Thank you for youre other advice, is the chassis okay to drift with a solid axel in the front? I'm running it on concrete, so I hope it will slide a bit easier, but I'm just a newbie, so what do I know

pickled

the 35A esc may not be powerful enough but try it out and then decide. the solid is fine for drifting. you can upgrade it later to a oneway(can't get them atm anyway) and see the difference between the two.the solid front understeers a bit, the oneway helps with tighter corners. concrete won't be a problem that's what I practice on most days. I'm not the most experienced either but I have had my share of experience with dramas lol. this chassis slides real well maybe too well you'll spin out many many times before you get the hang of keeping it drifting round a track. I am still learning how this chassis works and as the tyres degrade it changes the handling sometimes for the better depending on the tyres you run.

Well I'm off to my LHS for some practice on tarmac, looking forward to it. Last time my radio shat itself, fixed it so can't happen again! Hoping the only reason I have to stop will be flat batteries.

td-civ

iTrader: (18)

ok just a heads up to anyone thinking of buying the d3 the oneway is a must it will give you more control plus if your going to buy a esc motor for it or any drift car (well any rc in my point)

buy a sensor setup its way smoother and is best of CS drifting

the last d3 i built for a guy he had a none sensor motor in it 5700kv and it was hand full to run even with me running it i put a sensor 8.5 motor in it and it was night and day more control and way smoother

iSlide32

I find it's about how you tune it, im running a Castle 4600kv combo at the moment, and all it needed was a smaller pinion than what i started with to get smoother control. I went from a 19 tooth, to a 16 tooth by the way although, i will definently go to a smaller motor later on, around the 10.5 to 17.5 area.

td-civ

iTrader: (18)

my self on my d3's i run stock spur 18 pin 10.5 sensor no timing no boost
it has more power then i need even on big drifts

the most i go is 8.5 on my drift cars but 90% of them have 10.5

iSlide32

Yup, even i find the 4600kv overpowered, that is why it's geared so low, but it definently helps with cogging.