cody161

iTrader: (9)

Two weeks ago I broke my gear diff so I ordered a MIP ball diff thinking I will hardly ever have top worry about breaking this. I built the diff with the sketchy directions off of the website and felt good about everything. I get to the track and maybe play 15 minutes and its broke again. This time it was the idler gear in the transmission, fix it, bam 10 minutes later stripped idler gear again!! Ended up one of the small bearings that go in the outdrives had came apart and was the culprit. I ordered a new aluminum idler gear, diff rebuild kit, and new diff gear. Put it all in tonight using AE black and AE clear diff grease and I am having this horrible noise. Please help me, I am so frustrated right now. I have posted a video on youtube and I cannot post the video on here since I do not have enough post. Go to youtube and search "sc10 ball diff problems" and I am user codym161.

lostinbaja

iTrader: (15)

Here you go:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

cody161

iTrader: (9)

That was the videos that I followed to make sure I was building it correctly and I did everything he did.

racer53

Hey, Cody check the spur gears teeth for excessive wear or chipped teeth...I listened to your video and that's the first thing I would check...

noproblems209

iTrader: (22)

i've just gotten done battling this problem,

for starters sand the diff rings down to 1500, i believe the direction's of about 1/4 turn out is too lose i've been going about 1/8 turn from bottomed out. I'd adjust it down to where it's not slipping then adjust to your liking, too tight and it wants to lock up and you'll notice it driving the track.

i've been breaking my diff in on the bench just took an old dog bone cut one end off and chucked it in the drill.

your stripping idler gears out because of the slipper being too tight, its a fine line between being too loose and too tight. also when you assemble the trans put some shock oil on the gears it'll be much more quite and fluid.


take my suggestion's with a grain of salt it's just what i've learned thus far building my sc10

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

A: that aluminum idler is going to cause more problems than it solves: it will wear on the steel topshaft gear, the teeth will get sharp, and that will chew up the topshaft gear and the diff gear.

B: the problems are not caused by your MIP ball diff

c: ThunderbirdJunkie knows his SC10 gear diff has a "step" in it, one side goes to one side of the transmission. Does the MIP ball diff gear has this same "step"? If so, that may be your problem.

CHIZZLE

iTrader: (37)

Put a gear diff back in, problem solved. Most people have no need for a ball diff. Unless you're a super pro where every little tweak counts just run a gear diff. WAY easier to maintain and not finicky at all. That's my opinion.

cody161

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'm going to the track today so I'll try some of the things out today. Chizzle I would run the gear diff but everyone that has a SC10 there has broke their gear diff for some reason and everyone has swapped over to the ball diff.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

Gear diffs are crap in the sc10 and are way more unreliable.

cody161

iTrader: (9)

Before I started playing I put the plastic idler gear back in and all of the noise was gone and I had zero diff problems until the end of the day. All of a sudden my truck was driving itself in circles. The left rear wheel was locked up and the out drive was HOT!! I haven't took it apart yet to figure everything out.

caffeine357

iTrader: (8)

this is an old thread but i think my gear diff just blew up so i might rebuild with a ball diff. any suggestions for what kit to grab?