Skoob

figured i'd post this here, because i dunt think a lot of you read the n00b forums =p..

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Just got my first nitro car..(ntc3)

and figurd i'd knock the first couple of bags out..

get to bag c and you have to build the diff's..built the first one half way, and i go to put the bearings in...and i dropped one..

so now i'm down to one with 12 bearings and the other diff with 11 (i looked on the floor for 30mins, and it was eaten up)..

am i going to be totally effed untill i order more bearings? or will it work fine with just 11?

BaxterC

Hey Skooby..

Congradulations on your first Nitro Touring car, welcome to the club.

I would advise getting one one-way from a LHS, I dont think it would be too much, I dont know NTC3 at all but I know that while you are building it, if it isn't perfect, it isn't going to run perfect. you could try to run it and see, just remember that the one way has been built to handle the pressure with 12 pins, now with only 11, you will find it will wear out faster and possibly damage the shaft or the whole one-way. Try this for next time you build anything. lay a towel down on the table, preferably white, but make sure you bought it, otherwise your mom will kill you dead where you stand... Work over the towel, that way if you drop something, it doesn't bounce and jump right off the table and onto the think carpet where it hides, never to be seen again. Unless you buy another one, then it jumps out and shouts 'PEEKA BOO!!!'. It is frustrating to loose things from a kit but I know the towel bit will help.

Aggdaddy

A one-way diff for your first nitro car? I wouldn't do it. Stick with stock and just purchase some more bearings. Just be careful and patient. The workbench with towel is much better than working on it bare.

TC3 car is very good out of the box from what I hear.

Your one-way diff drops your braking power to two wheels in the rear. If you are racing, on a large winding curve type track, your one-way would be excellent, but you still have to get use to driving the car. Brakes on all four wheels would be easier to learn in my opinion of course.

Skoob

Aite thanks for the help, i'll just order another little pack of them..

And yea, i actually do have a white towel down - i figured most of the peices being black would be easy to see on them, but it stuck to my finger for a second which is what made it hit the table and have enough speed to roll off..

Thanks for the help, i'll probably be back in another couple days with another question lol

Edit: Oh yea, what do you recommend for an engine? i was hoping of staying around the $60 range for right now until i'm comfortable with the car, then i'll think about getting a good one..

BaxterC

Hey Skooby...

I suppose it happens to all of us... so dont worry, if you got a towel down, you better off than a lot of people... With regards to engine... I suggest going for a basic one... like OS, or maybe if you can afford a .12 STS, I hear they are good... just make sure it is of ABC construction, then you cant go wrong, but remember to run it in correctly, if you do this really well, you wont need to upgrade to be competitive. I cannot stress the run-in bit enough... it will last you well.

Skoob

By run in you mean burning the engine in right? letting it idle a full tank and all of that stuff?

I'm sure theres a good post on here somewhere on how to do that real well, i'll take a glance later, i think i'm going to get an OS probably, one of the 50-70 ones, my friend's dad has got an ntc3 and he's beena round cars for a long time, so i'll ask him about that stuff..

also, i was looking at tower hobbies for the diff balls, do you think i should just go ahead and get carbide? or should i just stick with the basic while i'm at it, they're only like 7 bucks, i win that a hand in poker

and btw, thanks a lot for all the help guys

jay272

Skoob, I ran my TC3 with a diff ball missing for the last year. You'll be ok. There are even guys so obsessed with making their cars as light as possible, that they're taking out half the balls out of each diff.

But, if you are going to get more, I'd just get the standard ones. No they don't last as long as carbide balls, but neither do the diff rings. So either way you go, you're gonna have to rebuild the diffs eventually. Oh, stay away from a front one-way. They are a noobs worst enemy!!!

BaxterC

Hey skooby.. Yup I mean burn-in, but not just one tank... DANG, that is only just starting... but your friend's dad will definately be able to help... GOOD LUCK and it is a pleasure.

Skoob

by all that stuff, i meant everything else i've read about hehe

unfortunately, money's getting scarce, either need to start winning some major poker..or hurry up and get to the end of this month so i can start work again ..

i should be finished with everything next friday (i'll get the engine wed.) and i'll probably be able to afford fuel and a starter box around april 1st..so..we'll see

again thanks for the help

and btw, i bought my engine...12 OS TR (slide carb)

Skoob

woohoo, here comes my next question

The little square thing that goes at the end of the drive shaft (long blue one that goes through the middle of the car to both sides) that holds the pins that go inside of the break disc and hold that there are for some reason hitting the sie of my radio try when it spins..

does anybody have any ideas? i'm going to check and see if i didn tpush it up far enough or something, but if that doesn't work, i can just cut off part of the radio tray that it is hitting, it doesn't really have any significance, it's just below the part where you screw your throttle servo in, and it's got two side..doesn't really look like i need it if anybody doesn't have any ideas..


nvm i fixed it, i'll let it stay up here tho in case somebody else has this problem..

by freak luck i saw the pin that holds it, and i pushed it in on accident trying to look down and i probably only moved it a couple mm's..but it was enough i guess to let the box go forward enough so that now it doesn't hit..