Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

1A is obvious. As for 2F & 2G, understandable. However, regarding everything '4' & '5', I guess a better way of putting it would have been this:

1) Will changing ANY of these remove the "blinky" mode?
2) Are there any '4' or '5' items that CAN be changed without removing "blinky", and, if so, which '4' and/or '5' items can be changed?

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

You might be able to change for example the start and end boost RPM range without disabling blinky but those settings won't do anything unless the boost timing values are not zero. Effectively, there's nothing in 4 and 5 that you can change and get any effect while staying in blinky.

Also I just checked. 1A doesn't affect blinky.

Poppn9

Have been giving the Sakura some shake down drives the past few days, getting all my settings and options to my liking. I'm still relatively new. The low voltage protection is set to be activated at 3.4 volts, but it seems to be coming on at 3.7. If the battery is over 3.7, the car runs fine, but at 3.7 it goes into low voltage protection mode and slows the car to 30 percent power and eventually stops.

Is this normal? Maybe I am missing something here, have been going over the instruction sheet a bunch of times.

Edit: so upon further reading, it looks like the protection will kick in if the voltage under load is at or below 3.4 volts, does this sound correct? The battery is currently at 7.26 volts and 3.63 volts per cell.

Andy Koback

iTrader: (280)

At 3.7 it's probably giving you a warning by slowing down and then at 3.4 volts shuts down. My guess. I never run my batteries that low to find out.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

HobbyWing Justock User Manual

Poppn9

Saw that in the manual, my only problem is when I check the voltage of the battery after the above mentioned happens, it reads 3.7 volts. So I'm assuming I'm getting a voltage drop while the car is in use below the 3.4 threshold? Does this sound right?

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Huge difference in voltage under load vs voltage at rest, in a 10 min main for 4WD SCT, not uncommon for folks to hit LVC, if I'm in the lead then I make it a point to back off the throttle so not to put as much load on my pack to keep the voltage up, there have been times where I intentionally back off to half throttle on the last couple of laps just to make sure my pack can finish the race, if someone starts to pull on me then I'll light it back up to maintain position.

Poppn9

Perfect answer, thank you for the reply! I had a feeling that was the case but I'm fairly new to all this, lots and lots of reading these past few weeks.

Hoping to head to the track for the first time for some real practice, thankfully it wont be a race day so hopefully it wont be too busy

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

Is there any chance you could provide lower value options for temperature cutoff, not just 105 or 125*C?
I'm using the Xerun XR8 Plus and Xerun 4268 SD G2 combo.

By the time the motor hits 105*C bearing/motor life is already being shortened in my experience.
The values of 105 and 125 are just not useful for protecting the motor, I'd love to see a much bigger user customizable range - perhaps from 70-75*C upwards would be much more useful.

SH

iTrader: (20)

shatty

Hi all...first post...

Looking for the right pinion gear for my setup. Im using the XR8 with the 2250kv motor, RC8T3.1e with stock spur (I think its a 46T), and 2 sets of tires and wheels. 4S battery. One set has 4.05" outer diameter and other has 4.26" OD. 75% of the time in the street on pavement. Want more top end but I dont wanna go too big and burn out motor and wires. Any info would be appreciated.

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

There's an RC8T3.1e thread - RC8T3e - you should ask in there.

BruceR.

I have a question about esc current ratrings. Currently I run stock 2wd buggy, stock 13.5 stadium truck, and USVTA. I have been running Hobbywing XERUN XR10 Justock esc, rated at 60A continuous current. I don't want this to turn into a "which brand is better" thread.

My question is this: Is there an advantage to running an esc with a higher amp rating? Would I notice a difference in speed, responsiveness, or?? by using one rated at 120A?
My motors are a couple years old and due for replacement. So now would be a good time for newer esc too if it makes sense to do so.

Thanks in advance for your replies,
Bruce

shatty

Not really because I was told to ask the manufacturer of the motor and ESC about this info. As per Associated's site

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

Understandable...but, what I was getting at is, there are probably people in that thread who've previously had the same (or similar) problem you've run into, and a "solution" might have already been posted. Plus, if nothing's posted, but there's someone in there who's had the same problem, if you inquire in there, they could reply with said solution.