Motorman

iTrader: (1)

zoom working on a good reply to your engine PM. I will give you some information soon.

rc_alan

Osobad, this is Josh Cyrul's G4 setup from when he was running the car... Remember, his setup is much different then stock and what most user's are using... But it works very well... As far as shock oil, I would use 70wt. rear and 60wt. front... and front toe I would use 1* toe out... That's the only thing's I've changed from Josh's. Use a setup station when dialing in your car when possible to get the most correct settings...

1 Front droop 1mm
2. Front toe angle +1* toe out
3. Front camber 1.5* neg
4. Steering hub inner hole... for more steering and control
5. Caster 1mm... You can always adjust your caster if you need more on power steering and track conditions call for it...
6. Front shock tower out hole... I know that's different then what most G4 owners are using... When I tried it, I felt I had more control or the car up front...
7. Front lower arm mount outer hole
8. Front ride height 4mm
9. Front width 198mm
10. Front shock springs blue Trinity reflect springs
11. Front one-way diff
12. Front tire shore 40's although, you may have to use 37's and even 42's... Always have extra's depending on track conditions...
13. Front tire diameter... 60mm for racing
Rear suspension setup...

1. Camber link... lower hole both on hub carrier and mount on on shock tower
2. Rear toe -2* toe in
3. Rear droop 4mm
4. Rear diff fluid. 10,000wt
5. Anti roll bar 45*
6. Rear Width 200mm and no less then 198mm
7. Rear camber -3*... If possible, use a setup station to set up your rear camber.
8. Ride height 4.5mm
9. Shock mounting... Tower middle hole and lower arm outer hole.
10. Rear shock springs... Stock silver springs. Now some are using Mugen light blue springs front and rear, I would use this setup first and then try the Mugen springs later...
11. Rear tires 37 or 40 shore... depending on track conditions.
12. Rear tire diameter. 60.5mm for racing

Engine gearing

1. Use the new G4 S-class gearing is possible...
2. I know some are posting this and that and to use 18/52 for the 1st gear... Use the S-class gear blue 19t clutch and 51t for the spur. On the 2nd gear use 24/25 if you're driving on a large track and if you're runing and powerful mod motor, then use 25/45... If you're running a small or tight track then use for your 2nd gear 24/46 or 47... To keep from stripping gears, make sure you're using on the S-class 19t blue first gear, your gear mesh is correct and set your tranny to shift a tab bit early... The Gears are smaller and will spin more quickly... You don't want your tranny to shift to late and cause to much of a hit on your gears... If you run these gears and you have a proper motor, you won't have any problems blowing past the Competition... :-)

The rear set up is pretty much right on the money... Droop changes and rear blade changes depending on track conditions... The front setup works and I would give it a try... Remember, this is 90% Josh Cyruls setup of the car... I just mod'ed a few things here and there ie. shock oil and front toe... and the gearing info is mine. Good luck and let me know how things work out... This set you should let you power around the track... The stock setup feels nice driving nice and easy... This one with some driving skills will let you drive more agressive...

RC_Alan

YBSLOW

iTrader: (9)

What track is this setup for? Car setup is completely dependant on the track size, shape, traction and temperature. If your talking about Revelation it will change at least three times during the day.

Leo has the setup to run at Rev and maybe he can post it here.

I ran my droop at 1 in front and 4 in the rear with 59mm tires, but use Leo's method as tires wear.

At Rev we ran 45 fronts and 42 rears with orange TM springs up front and magenta or blue depending on track changing during the day.

I ran the front bar vertical and the rear bar flat.

Camber 3° rear and 1° front
Ride height 4mm frnt and 4.5 rear

rc_alan

YBSLOW... No, I'm not talking about Rev... There are Mongoose owners all over world that don't just drive there cars at Rev... For those who brought the orginal Trinity G4, it included 2 of Josh Cyrul's setup sheets for the car... The one I posted was his for Speedline GP in Las Vegas SB. I should have posted that, but Osobad, was asking for a general setup for the type of track he drives on... Josh's setup was for a Med. size track, Med traction and Med. surface conditions... I also have his setup for Toledo Ohio, which is for a High bite, Med site track, that is some what bumpy... If Osobad want a setup for Rev, I'm sure many can point him in the right directon... I'm not sure if I even know you... No problem... I'm not a pro driver... but I'll say this, I know the car better then most and I've shared my findings with both Team Magic and RD Logics for the past 2 years... You know that new steering system, K-factory chassic and S-class gears everyone driving.... If is wasn't for a few of us complaining and testing things for TM.... You might be still driving with that slider steering system. I also noted that the stock setup is ok, but for what Osobad was looking for, Josh's setup would be a better setup... And as for Josh's set-up, if you don't believe me, I can give you a copy the next time I'm at Rev or you can ask Josh over on the Electric TC side. While he's driving for Kyosho, he's a super nice guy and great to chat with...
Not trying to flame anyone... and I'm sorry if I came off that way... Just trying to make my point clear.

RC_Alan

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

Where can I get this Moongoose car and for how much??

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

Also any web sites where I can get more info on this car?

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

rc_alan,

When you're talking about the droop settings, are you saying 4mm of rear droop as per Leo's method, or measuring it on the blocks with a droop guage?

If you use Leo's method of 4-5mm of rear droop then on the blocks with a droop guage you will see 0mm droop or +1mm maybe. And according to his post, he has more droop in the rear than the front. If I do this I would have issues trying to get the car balanced with springs swaybars and tyres to stop the rear stepping out.

I found the car worked better using +3 or +4 on the blocks with a droop guage.

I am just trying to clarify this so I understand the different ways people are measuring droop.

For instance, I know of one of the fasterst guys at our track using a Serpent 710 runs 0mm droop at the front and +8mm droop at the rear, this is measured using blocks and a droop guage.

Again, not trying to contradict anyone, I just think there are two methods of measuring droop being spoken about here and in the end, the amount of droop s different if you use blocks for 4mm of droop and if you use a ruler and upstop method for 4mm of droop.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

If you're in the states just go to RD Logics website RD Logics If you're in another country I'm sure we can tell you who the dealer is in that country.

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

From Canada, just looking into a new 1/10 car and am deciding between the the 710, RRR, and now looking into this Moongoose thing?

rc_alan

Z00M... When I measure droop, I always use a droop gauge... I know Leo and his setup is different then mine and how he sets his car up. His car is always dialed and his style works for him. When I posted Josh Cyrul's setup, I'm pretty sure he was using a gauge as well... Everyone should remember, that one person's setup might work one and not another... Different driving styles and track conditions can change with the wind... What ever you do, find the setting that works and write it do.... Any changes you make to your car, make sure you make a note of it... Oh, and one last rule of thumb... Only make one change at a time and see what that change does for your cars handling/setup. If it works, find, if it does not... You can always go back to square one.. .02

RC_Alan

InitialD

You must remember that Leo uses smaller tires. What tire diameters do you run Zoom? Bigger tires require bigger numbers on the droop gauge than when using smaller tires for the same chassis uptravel (droop). Comparing your ride height against Leo's, he's already got 1 mm extra droop (chassis uptravel) if assuming you're using same tire diameter and droop gauge reading as he is using...

InitialD

The reason why Leo does what he does is so that he is able to make the relative droop the same for all tire sizes he uses. Doing this makes the car handling more consistant.

Using a smaller tires while maintaining the same ride height will give you relatively less droop (chassis uptravel). You need to adjust to get more droop with smaller tires so that the reading on the droop gauge gets to a lesser value. Using a lower ride height also allows you to have more droop (chassis uptravel).

kyoshoBOY

in belt driven racecars choose on this cars between
1. RRR
2.MONGOOSE(G4)
3.HOBAO GPX4
and it depends on what brand of car your LHS parts support is the most important or else u wanna order online..
in shaft driven
1.FW05RR
2.OFNA CD3
ofcourse ill choose my FW05RR heheheh
i love this car!!

kyoshoBOY

im sellin mine used only for a month...pm me if u interested..

rc_alan

InitialD.. I understand how Leo set's up his car, I even have one of his setups at one of the local RC tracks we race at... I have always used a setup station and droop gauge to dail in my car. I also run 59mm rear and 58mm front tire diameter. I never have one set standard or setting for my droop... Like I said before, track conditions change and different tracks may require a different setup... Not to beat a dead horse... I know my driving style and what setup works for me at a given track once I've driven it. The car will tell me what I need to do to it to make handle correctly.. ie shock oil, diff setting... I run ball diff, sway bar, tire shore ect. ect.... Everyone... Have a blessed Good Friday and a Happy Easter Sunday...

RC_Alan