perzeus

The car uses 8 bushings. So to have all the bushings with all the adjustment possibilities, you need 4 of the sets you posted.

Although you can assemble the car with less if you don't use the same bushings in all positions. For example if you plan to run more rear toe in than standard and run arm sweep at the front you would only need half the sets.

Steve89

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that. I thought that was going to be the answer just didn't want to part with more $$$ haha.

SouthFloridaApp

iTrader: (6)

What is the best way to quickly install the battery and secure it for racing. I do not want dnf's and also want a fast quick change system. I do not want to use tape, but would be open to a Velcro system or something else.

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

Reflex Racing has a system that might be right up your alley. Look under the T3/T4 upgrade parts, last item listed. Reflexracing.net

IJsbier

I'm also looking for more grip on a low grip track with some tight turns.
The 1mm and 1.5mm, is that on the inner side of the camber link right?

BTW, I'm already running with 1.6mm upperdeck and alu stand (in the middle), no screws on the bulkhead (with the spur).
-0,75mm offst hex, front 1.3 and rear 1.2 roll bar, front shock 2.5-2.8 rear 2.5

daleburr

Yes that's the inner link shims. The things you listed should work well in low grip. Post the rest of your setup as well and there may be areas to improve.

IJsbier

My complete setup:

Gear diff: 900
Shock front: 25.-2.8, Rear: 2.5
Shock Oil: 450 (front and rear, holes probably default, just bought the T4 2015)
Anti Roll bar: front: 1.3mm, rear: 1.2 mm
Tires: Sorex 28 (pretty worn), I have Sorex 24 and a new set Sorex 28 on order
Roll center: eccentric bushings: all default (middle)
Bump steer shim: 2mm
Ride height: front 5.6mm, rear: 5.8mm
Camber link front: inner shim: 2mm, outer shim 2mm
Camber link rear: inner 1mm, outer shim: 4mm
HEX offset: -0,75 (Front and rear)
Downstop: front: 5.5mm, rear: 4.5mm
Front Toe out: 1 degree
Rear toe in: 3 (should be default, thinking of increasing the toe in)
Shock shim front: upper: 2mm, lower: 0mm
Shock shim rear: upper: 3mm, lower: 2mm
Roll center upper clamp, front, rear: 2
Motor mount flex: yes
Alu Stand: yes
Camber: front and rear: 1.8 degree, a little below 2
Shock position front: 2, rear: 3
Diff position front and rear: down

Note, that the temperature was pretty low yesterday (13 degree or so) the track had some small wet spots and quite some dirt (sand).
I had to be really careful when going on throttle, this winter I have been driving on carpet with much more grip, so I think I have to adapt my driving style as well, but yesterday it was way to tricky to drive. Looking forward to your advise.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

IJsbier,
I don't believe you're going to find a lot more pace based off of setup changes alone. I would recommend trying lowering your lower pins all the way around, should help the car roll more.

But honestly, with those types of conditions, concentrating on tire prep is likely your best best. If it is dusty, try some wd-40 as part of the tire prep stage, it should help the tires stay more dust free.

Good luck.

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

I would start with lowering your rear pins (lowering roll center). Use the .1 down inserts. Set camber to 2. And also move the diff to the upper position, at least in the rear.

IJsbier

Thanks for the advice. Why should I put the diff(s) in the upper position? According to the manual it should be in the lower position for low-medium traction tracks. When I tried the lower position last year (T3 2012) that didn't work very well, but I never understood why.

The WD-40 is a good tip, I have heard of guys using WD-40, never tried it myself, I normally only clean the tires with Brake Cleaner. I tried MR33 tire additive but that didn't help much.

daleburr

That's a pretty good low-grip setup, you're definitely in the ballpark.

For more traction and overall grip:
- 400cst oil
- More droop (5 front 4 rear)
- New tyres
- Tyre additive (MR33 at 60degC, for 30 minutes if grip is low, reduce time when grip comes up)

For more traction (corner-exit grip):
- Front shocks up to hole 3
- Rear shocks down to hole 2
- LTCR shell (you don't say what you're running, but this shell gives the best traction)

You should get a decent improvement with those changes.

Dale

tbrymer

iTrader: (10)

Putting the diffs in the upper position will move the center of gravity higher, which will give you a little more roll.

I'd also try decreasing your downstops to give you more droop.

daleburr

The CoG change isn't the significant factor; the driveshaft angle is what you're changing there.

The torque on the driveshaft makes it want to stay straight, which prevents the car pitching and transfers weight directly to the tyres instead. So more angle on the driveshafts will cause more of a violent weight transfer under acceleration and braking.

This will give more turn-in steering and more traction on exit, which can be good in low grip. The downside is that the car becomes more sensitive to throttle/brake inputs, so can snap suddenly.

IJsbier

Thanks for all tips and advice. I have something to try on Saturday.
Normally I race with an LTC2.0 body, last sunday I used my old Mazda 6 body to do some training.

When do I get more angle on my driveshafts? With high or low diff?
I think more angle with the dif in the up position because of the more roll and more of a violent weight transfer.
Last season I did prefer the up position, something to try again.

Would 350 oil be to thin? I have 350, I don't have I have 400 (yet).
I will add some droop, change the shocks, today I received new tyres. So almost good to go.

cplus

iTrader: (11)

Blend some 350 and 450 to get 400.

But oils ain't oils. Your 450 could be as thin as someone else's 400 or thicker than another 500.

If it is kit 450, I'd leave it alone.

900 in your diff - any brand - does seem very light though.