Help with new Jato 3.3
#1
Help with new Jato 3.3
I just got a Traxxas Jato 3.3 and one thing im noticing is that it dosent stop very good. I have the 2.4GHz radio and tried to make the "multi-function knob" set to braking % but i dont notice any difference. However when i drive it on dirt when i let off the gas the back tires lock up and it just spins around.. but if i apply brakes on the street it just rolls to a stop.
So if there any thing im doing wrong? any advice is welcome.
So if there any thing im doing wrong? any advice is welcome.
#2
You have to simply adjust your linkage off of the servo. The reason your jato is spinning around on dirt and not on the street is the same reason 1.1 cars can stop on dry pavement but not ice, It's called traction.
#3
when i let off the gas in a real car the tired dont just lock up. Thats whats the Jato is doing. thats what i cant figure out.
#4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Ok, with the motor off and all the electronics on does the rear tires spin free? If not your servo settings are off or check rear bearings, slipper clutch, transmission gears and clutch parts. Something is binding if thats the problem. I had a 3.3 jato a few years ago when they first came out.. damn thing ate trans gears like crazy--i got tired of pulling the tranny apart after every run so I sold it..
#5
Ok, with the motor off and all the electronics on does the rear tires spin free? If not your servo settings are off or check rear bearings, slipper clutch, transmission gears and clutch parts. Something is binding if thats the problem. I had a 3.3 jato a few years ago when they first came out.. damn thing ate trans gears like crazy--i got tired of pulling the tranny apart after every run so I sold it..
#7
Lol. Yea weird. Cuz I know I run mine really hard and worst was it shot out the slipper clutch pads and lost a pin to the axle while doing some doughnuts. I love my jato actually thinking about buying another
#8
yeah i have the brakes all the way tight and the servo is pulling the pads and all that, its just not stopping at all.
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
Dual Brake Kit
Aluminum Cam Lever
Get those, then make sure your linkage is set correctly
#10
Have u tried turning the two screws for the pads. On mine I have no play in it and just barely able to turn it by hand
#11
WELP it came back to bite me in the ass.. I just crashed into this metal shipping container. Broke the front right A-Arm completly in half. I have been adjusting these brakes sence i got it and it just dosent stop at all. It really pisses me off and i dont know why they dont work.. and im in japan and there is no one around this area that I can take it to to help me out. FML
#12
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
WELP it came back to bite me in the ass.. I just crashed into this metal shipping container. Broke the front right A-Arm completly in half. I have been adjusting these brakes sence i got it and it just dosent stop at all. It really pisses me off and i dont know why they dont work.. and im in japan and there is no one around this area that I can take it to to help me out. FML
#13
#14
I just read this on the Traxxas web site.
Jato brakes...the final chapter..
Ok....I spent about 3 hours last night reading over all of the Jato brake mods and I've finally found something that I think works well....
but before i go any further, there has been alot of debate on the fact that the stock brakes can work correctly if set up right....
If someone can make the stock set-up work, God Bless you....I can't..
I tried the set screw collar on the left side of the servo horn with the fuel tubing, harder springs etc...NOTHING was working.....then about 2AM I found something that did...atleast for today...
I've run about half a quart through it and it's locking the brakes EVERY time.
I took the stock spring off and put a piece of fuel tubing inside of the hollow end of a nylon pen shaft.(basically i took a ball point pen, took the insides out and hacked off about an inch and put the tubing inside of that.)..I rebuilt it like it was the spring with the nylon adjustor on the end like always....and started it up and WOW....the problem with the fuel tubing is that it flexed too much and even with heat shrink on top of it, it would stop working after about the 5th or 6th tank for some reason....soooo....I thought of this...
Here's the thing...I want there to be no drag on my transmission when i spin the wheels...they oughtta spin freely without resistance...that way there is no drag on the engine. So that's what i did...i backed off of the hex screws on the brake pads just enough for the wheels to spin freely then added this mod.
When I warmed it up, and got on my first WOT...i locked those brakes up and it WORKED. FINALLY!!.....I was skeptical, and went on for over an hour just doing WOT runs. ....the key was to find something that wouldn't flex almost at all.....i have a rubber stopper in between my servo horn and the fuel/pen tubing for a little give to keep from stripping the servo, but after 3 hours...i locked the brakes every time....the servo was a stock servo, and showed no signs of any wear inside....
I'm not sure if this would work for track conditions, etc...this is a street set up for HIGH SPEED BRAKING....
My thinking is this, and please correct me if I'm wrong, i'm still learning...
The servo hits the rubberstop..that thing is about an 1/8 inch wide...compressed, it hits the pen tube and the servo locks the brake...the harder my brake, the harder the pen resists the rubber stop and the harder the plates on the brakes compress are compressed....after that 1/8th inch there is no more give...no more drag and brakes that work. Like throttle control, there now seems to be brake control over 65mph...
I can't think of why this would strip the gears inside the servo.you're still applying the same force as a spring or to apply drag on the plates of the brakes on the stock set up..resistance is resistance, just applied at a different place..so after one long post, i think i might have success.
BTW thanks to NitroExpress for coming up with the start to this idea in a past thread.....U DA MAN!!
Ok....I spent about 3 hours last night reading over all of the Jato brake mods and I've finally found something that I think works well....
but before i go any further, there has been alot of debate on the fact that the stock brakes can work correctly if set up right....
If someone can make the stock set-up work, God Bless you....I can't..
I tried the set screw collar on the left side of the servo horn with the fuel tubing, harder springs etc...NOTHING was working.....then about 2AM I found something that did...atleast for today...
I've run about half a quart through it and it's locking the brakes EVERY time.
I took the stock spring off and put a piece of fuel tubing inside of the hollow end of a nylon pen shaft.(basically i took a ball point pen, took the insides out and hacked off about an inch and put the tubing inside of that.)..I rebuilt it like it was the spring with the nylon adjustor on the end like always....and started it up and WOW....the problem with the fuel tubing is that it flexed too much and even with heat shrink on top of it, it would stop working after about the 5th or 6th tank for some reason....soooo....I thought of this...
Here's the thing...I want there to be no drag on my transmission when i spin the wheels...they oughtta spin freely without resistance...that way there is no drag on the engine. So that's what i did...i backed off of the hex screws on the brake pads just enough for the wheels to spin freely then added this mod.
When I warmed it up, and got on my first WOT...i locked those brakes up and it WORKED. FINALLY!!.....I was skeptical, and went on for over an hour just doing WOT runs. ....the key was to find something that wouldn't flex almost at all.....i have a rubber stopper in between my servo horn and the fuel/pen tubing for a little give to keep from stripping the servo, but after 3 hours...i locked the brakes every time....the servo was a stock servo, and showed no signs of any wear inside....
I'm not sure if this would work for track conditions, etc...this is a street set up for HIGH SPEED BRAKING....
My thinking is this, and please correct me if I'm wrong, i'm still learning...
The servo hits the rubberstop..that thing is about an 1/8 inch wide...compressed, it hits the pen tube and the servo locks the brake...the harder my brake, the harder the pen resists the rubber stop and the harder the plates on the brakes compress are compressed....after that 1/8th inch there is no more give...no more drag and brakes that work. Like throttle control, there now seems to be brake control over 65mph...
I can't think of why this would strip the gears inside the servo.you're still applying the same force as a spring or to apply drag on the plates of the brakes on the stock set up..resistance is resistance, just applied at a different place..so after one long post, i think i might have success.
BTW thanks to NitroExpress for coming up with the start to this idea in a past thread.....U DA MAN!!
#15
I don't get it. I've been reading a few threads and it seems like so many people have some kind of issue with their jato. I have had mine for 4 years and I run this thing hard. Never had any problems that others are having. Mine runs great and still on the original motor. I must have got a special one. Gl on the brake issue after u get it back together