Trinity D3.5 17.5 Gearing/Timing Help
#1
Trinity D3.5 17.5 Gearing/Timing Help
For those of you that have this motor, I run tight indoor carpet racing with one 50-75' straight away and my truck is one of the fastest, but my motor temps get up to 180-200 degrees after 5-6min races...Originally I had a 27t pinion with 78t spur and I swapped that down to a 23p and 78s still gets hot, still fast...Timing was where it was when I got the motor, at -8 then plus the built in timing...Wondering if I should put timing to 0 on the endbell, and try a smaller pinion like a 20T or what...Im happy with how fast my truck is, just need to run cooler...Im wondering if the temps are causing the fade toward the end of my races or if its because my maxamps are dropping off so fast...I run the Gen2 rspro with maxamps 6500mah dual core 150c batteries...
Any help would be great...
I run a proline pro 2.
Any help would be great...
I run a proline pro 2.
#2
For those of you that have this motor, I run tight indoor carpet racing with one 50-75' straight away and my truck is one of the fastest, but my motor temps get up to 180-200 degrees after 5-6min races...Originally I had a 27t pinion with 78t spur and I swapped that down to a 23p and 78s still gets hot, still fast...Timing was where it was when I got the motor, at -8 then plus the built in timing...Wondering if I should put timing to 0 on the endbell, and try a smaller pinion like a 20T or what...Im happy with how fast my truck is, just need to run cooler...Im wondering if the temps are causing the fade toward the end of my races or if its because my maxamps are dropping off so fast...I run the Gen2 rspro with maxamps 6500mah dual core 150c batteries...
Any help would be great...
I run a proline pro 2.
Any help would be great...
I run a proline pro 2.
I plugged your gearing into a gear chart and that's what I would start at for a shorter track, which makes me wonder if you have a bind in the drive train somewhere. Was the motor new when you got it? Does it have the 12.5 HT rotor?
#3
Yeah it has the 2.72 and just like a slash. What would you suggest for gearing for a right track?
It is the d3.5 17.5 the certified hand built with that stator you mentioned...it was brand new a month ago, only few races on it.
It is the d3.5 17.5 the certified hand built with that stator you mentioned...it was brand new a month ago, only few races on it.
#4
Sorry it was also the maxzilla...the $150 one...would having a lot of drag brake cause excessive heat? I turned up the drag brake high thinking it's be more controlled braking thN me slamming brakes...I picked up a 20T today as that was next size down my hobby shop had.
#5
Tech Initiate
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In my understanding of gearing, dropping pinion would increase speed, and increase motor temps. To decrease temp, increase pinion size, getting the ratio closer to 1:1. This decreases speed (and temps) and increases torque. Am I correct? Again, that is what I'm being told. I'm new to the "go fasts", coming from the crawling world.
Cheers!
Cheers!
#6
Idk trinity told me bigger pinion equals more heat = bad
#7
Tech Initiate
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Hmmm. Interesting. Maybe I misunderstood what I was told too. I'll have to verify. Good Luck!
#8
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
78/23=3.39 x 2.72 transmission ratio comes out to 9.22. Thats pretty low geared for a 17.5
especially a D3.5 with a 12.5 rotor. There has to be a problem
somewhere else in your system. Check for drag. Could be a bad bearing or your
gear mesh might be to tight. Could also be problems with the settings in your ESC.
Lower tooth count on your pinion spins the motor faster, Higher tooth
count spins it slower. 17.5 motors make a ton of torque but very little RPMs
hence the need to be geared much higher than a mod motor.
Your undergeared, excess drag or the ESC settings are off.
Lead-Lobber, maybe if you spent less time being a grammar nazi and calling people stupid you would learn something.
especially a D3.5 with a 12.5 rotor. There has to be a problem
somewhere else in your system. Check for drag. Could be a bad bearing or your
gear mesh might be to tight. Could also be problems with the settings in your ESC.
Lower tooth count on your pinion spins the motor faster, Higher tooth
count spins it slower. 17.5 motors make a ton of torque but very little RPMs
hence the need to be geared much higher than a mod motor.
Your undergeared, excess drag or the ESC settings are off.
Lead-Lobber, maybe if you spent less time being a grammar nazi and calling people stupid you would learn something.
#9
Tech Adept
Sorry it was also the maxzilla...the $150 one...would having a lot of drag brake cause excessive heat? I turned up the drag brake high thinking it's be more controlled braking thN me slamming brakes...I picked up a 20T today as that was next size down my hobby shop had.
#10
I'll have to check my esc but the drag brake is very high I know....anybody else think this may be the problem? My wheels spin freely, gear mesh is def not too tight and my motor timing on end bell is set to 0, but from my understanding puts the timing really at +20. I wonder if I should also Turn that down to produce more torque?
#13
Do you think my drag brake set very high could be the problem?
#15
Ok...when you say under geared, do you mean too small of a pinion?