How do you know what to adjust for a layout?
08-01-2010, 08:07 PM
#1
How do you know what to adjust for a layout?
I am trying to learn what to adjust depending on track conditions and surface and had a question. Where I live I run on 2 tracks mainly, 1 is Hard Packed Clay with a blue groove (calibers work best), the other is Loose Dry dirt sometimes loamy (bowties work best). Both have jumps that can bottom your car out. Those of you that run on different track types how do you know what to adjust, or do you keep your setup pretty close and just change to the tires that give the best grip? I have read many things, I have a Hudy Manual, but I am trying to learn when to move a shock up or down 1 notch on the tower or tighten or swap to a stiffer or not as stiff swaybar, add stiffer front or rear shock springs, change shock oil weight etc? I even look at setup sheets, look at track type, youtube the track see what kind of jumps and bumps are there. Thanks in advance for insight.
Last edited by mcion; 08-01-2010 at 08:19 PM.
08-01-2010, 11:32 PM
#2
Well it sounds like you have done 90% of the work already, TIRES!
As far as when I travel to different tracks I usually run a few tanks with my standard setup so that I can get a feel for the track. Then I start changing tires if my first choice was less than stellar. Then I usually start working with shock packages, oils, pistons, springs, shock mounting location, etc.
Usually by this point my car is pretty good. If time permits I start messing around with everything else; camber links, kickup, toe, antisquat, etc. (if needed of course)
Just take your time and remember to only change one thing at a time. Its a process to make your car dialed, be patient.
As far as when I travel to different tracks I usually run a few tanks with my standard setup so that I can get a feel for the track. Then I start changing tires if my first choice was less than stellar. Then I usually start working with shock packages, oils, pistons, springs, shock mounting location, etc.
Usually by this point my car is pretty good. If time permits I start messing around with everything else; camber links, kickup, toe, antisquat, etc. (if needed of course)
Just take your time and remember to only change one thing at a time. Its a process to make your car dialed, be patient.
08-02-2010, 03:40 AM
#3
call me lazy but ive always just dealt with how my car handles. minus tires of course. i never really change much to dial in on the track but instead just get used to it.
but maybe ill take all of this into consideration next time and actually try to dial my car in!!
but maybe ill take all of this into consideration next time and actually try to dial my car in!!
08-02-2010, 05:06 AM
#5
The first thing I will do is throw on a tire that i know is safe. This comes from me having raced alot of different places and conditions. But if it's hot outside and the track is dry I will go with a m2 caliber just to be safe and get a feel for the track. After I get the flow of the track in my head I start running a little faster, carefully monitoring what the car is or more importantly isn't doing that I want it to. Take notice if your car is bottoming out over jumps, it's rolling over alot in corners, is it twitchy, is it pushing, these good questions to ask yourself. I'm a firm believer that if you know enough about setup you can tune your rides to about any tire and make it work pretty good, but it's a whole lot easier just changing tires and much less time consuming. Most guys that race alot know what a tire that just isn't working feels like but some people just think thats the best its going to get and just roll with it. A bad tire choice usually will result in a push on entrance and loose on exit. Thats usually when I know that the tire isn't working well. However it may not be the tread pattern thats wrong but just the compound. I will use softer compounds when the track is cooler and harder when it's really hot. This past weekend I ran m2 holeshots all day, the track dry, temps around 90*, and they were great. But then the sun started going done and they wattered the track at the start of rd3 so there was some moisture still in it. I ran the m2 but I should have ran a m3. The car wasn't bad but the push on entry loose on exit became more apparent. I'm not sure this answers your question but there really isn't a book just set on do this when the track is this. It will come from racing on different surfaces and alot of trial and error. I been racing for 4-5 years competatively and I have just a small piece of the pie! I learn something new almost everytime I go to the track. Hope this helps.
08-02-2010, 05:35 AM
#6
^^
Good Info there.
Good Info there.
08-02-2010, 07:39 AM
#7
Just throw it on the track and drive! These are off-road machines, so I dont see where moving your shock pos one little move over is really gonna make a difference. I just drive it and get the feel and get used to it.
Of course tires are another story. Those you have to change with track cond.
08-02-2010, 11:21 AM
#8
On buggies like the Losi 2.0 pretty much everybody uses the same box setup on 90% of tracks, but on other cars their setup seems to need to be changed for the buggy to handle good at each track.
08-02-2010, 07:30 PM
#9
x2
Just throw it on the track and drive! These are off-road machines, so I dont see where moving your shock pos one little move over is really gonna make a difference. I just drive it and get the feel and get used to it.
Of course tires are another story. Those you have to change with track cond.
Just throw it on the track and drive! These are off-road machines, so I dont see where moving your shock pos one little move over is really gonna make a difference. I just drive it and get the feel and get used to it.
Of course tires are another story. Those you have to change with track cond.
I can make certain setup changes that will help me pick up 1-2 sec. a lap.
Lazy and racing do not go together. If you go to just have fun, then do whatever you want.
Nothing beats a properly setup car. I have raced with allot of Pros, during practice and even the heats, they are constantly trying out setup options, especially during practice.
Last weekend, I made a camber link adjustments that planted the car and really helped the car to square-up, I went from 10 lap runs to and 11.
08-02-2010, 08:04 PM
#10
x2
Just throw it on the track and drive! These are off-road machines, so I dont see where moving your shock pos one little move over is really gonna make a difference. I just drive it and get the feel and get used to it.
Of course tires are another story. Those you have to change with track cond.
Just throw it on the track and drive! These are off-road machines, so I dont see where moving your shock pos one little move over is really gonna make a difference. I just drive it and get the feel and get used to it.
Of course tires are another story. Those you have to change with track cond.
IMO, you are giving this poor guy bad info.
I can make certain setup changes that will help me pick up 1-2 sec. a lap.
Lazy and racing do not go together. If you go to just have fun, then do whatever you want.
Nothing beats a properly setup car. I have raced with allot of Pros, during practice and even the heats, they are constantly trying out setup options, especially during practice.
Last weekend, I made a camber link adjustments that planted the car and really helped the car to square-up, I went from 10 lap runs to and 11.
I can make certain setup changes that will help me pick up 1-2 sec. a lap.
Lazy and racing do not go together. If you go to just have fun, then do whatever you want.
Nothing beats a properly setup car. I have raced with allot of Pros, during practice and even the heats, they are constantly trying out setup options, especially during practice.
Last weekend, I made a camber link adjustments that planted the car and really helped the car to square-up, I went from 10 lap runs to and 11.
A BIG X2......those little holes are there for a reason....I feel sorry for you jeff_ellis if you cant grasp the concept of a simple change like a camber link can make a WORLD of difference on how the car handles out on the track.....Can you say V2 Tower on the Truggy.
08-02-2010, 09:17 PM
#11
The problem is sometimes you do not have a lot of time, to make the major changesl ike changing diff fluids the day before an event. I guess I need to take a practice day at the track and do those things. Got a couple trick questions. See if you guys can help me. Say you take a setup sheet such as this one http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups/r...lenge_2010.pdf
Which is how I had my car setup before I saw it except for a few things. I moved from the outside hole to the inside hole on the front chub/caster block which makes the upper a arm shorter, how will the car react. Also what would be the difference from running a 3.3lb spring and running 5mm rebound in the rear VS. running a 3.0lb spring and running full rebound in the rear. Would the stiffer spring with less rebound make the rear rebound just the same as a lighter spring with full rebound? Thanks in advance for the help. I tried to search these things, but it does not work right now.
Which is how I had my car setup before I saw it except for a few things. I moved from the outside hole to the inside hole on the front chub/caster block which makes the upper a arm shorter, how will the car react. Also what would be the difference from running a 3.3lb spring and running 5mm rebound in the rear VS. running a 3.0lb spring and running full rebound in the rear. Would the stiffer spring with less rebound make the rear rebound just the same as a lighter spring with full rebound? Thanks in advance for the help. I tried to search these things, but it does not work right now.
08-04-2010, 05:26 AM
#12
well it may be mostly because I havent really messed with it too much. I just leave it the way it is. And Kal, yes, its just for fun. Just like most other people do except for the few that get all serious about it in depth.
mcion has a point. As far as big changes, like diff's, bearings, tire gluing, or any other major work I do in my spare time in my work shop at my house. But at the track its hard to with the time to keep trying different set ups, next thing you know they are calling for the race to start. Get there earlier? Well I can't being as tho I work 3rd shift and get off at like 3 am sometimes.
mcion has a point. As far as big changes, like diff's, bearings, tire gluing, or any other major work I do in my spare time in my work shop at my house. But at the track its hard to with the time to keep trying different set ups, next thing you know they are calling for the race to start. Get there earlier? Well I can't being as tho I work 3rd shift and get off at like 3 am sometimes.
08-04-2010, 05:41 AM
#13
well it may be mostly because I havent really messed with it too much. I just leave it the way it is. And Kal, yes, its just for fun. Just like most other people do except for the few that get all serious about it in depth.
mcion has a point. As far as big changes, like diff's, bearings, tire gluing, or any other major work I do in my spare time in my work shop at my house. But at the track its hard to with the time to keep trying different set ups, next thing you know they are calling for the race to start. Get there earlier? Well I can't being as tho I work 3rd shift and get off at like 3 am sometimes.
mcion has a point. As far as big changes, like diff's, bearings, tire gluing, or any other major work I do in my spare time in my work shop at my house. But at the track its hard to with the time to keep trying different set ups, next thing you know they are calling for the race to start. Get there earlier? Well I can't being as tho I work 3rd shift and get off at like 3 am sometimes.
08-04-2010, 10:52 AM
#14
This is where set up sheets are key. Yes it may take awhile to get your rig dialed in, but once you do you now have a base for that track. If you race there again you have something to start with other then your standard set up. Of course they may have changed the lay out and temps may be different however you know the dirt and what hooked the last time you were there. It may be a hassle to change out a diff or a shock, but push come to shove think about how many times you have had to fix something in the middle of a main. same concept. The time you spend in set up and maint makes the difference in your rigs performance on the track. Have you ever watched a pro that drives the same rig that you do and go man how does he get his rig to stick to the track like that? well he started the same as you, diff change here, shock position there, camber link maybe. And continued to tweak and learn what each thing does when they moved it. RC is a hobby, much like full sized racing it is here for us all to have fun, but those who are working to be competitive cause it is our nature try new things to make our rig better then the next guy. Don't be afraid to try a setup change you may end up liking how the rig handles after it, and ya may not but you learned.
08-04-2010, 11:30 AM
#15
Yea, but even if you get there earlier, if you go run a few minutes and feel you need to change something like front diff fluid, you gotta clean off the dirt, depending on vehicle pull off the front drive train, pull out the diff, open the diff, change the oil, clean everything before putting it back together and then go test again. By that time more drivers and are practicing and sometimes the stand gets full.