TT120

iTrader: (8)

Change your tires. That will be the easiest thing to try first. Make sure there's no or very little slop in the steering.

Could also raise the ride height in the rear to bring a little more weight forward. What is your ride height now?

I don't think the swaybars have anything to do with it, they just minimize body roll in the corners but this is a straight line problem.

onnetz

what kind of insert do you have with those tires?

if its too soft the tire could be wandering on the rim... like others have said, I would go with foams.....

NickRummy

iTrader: (13)

I'm not sure what the ride height is off hand. I can't check right now since it's torn apart.

I'm running the stock inserts that came with the x pattern tires seen here.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXM979

What steering setup would be good to run? Do you guys use servo savers? my steering did have some slop in it when I first got the car. I changed over to an aluminum bellcrank with bearings. It helped a lot but still had a slight amount of play. Seemed like it was from the servo. I tightened everything up pretty good. Do you guys use servo savers and what kind of servos?

What kind of foams would be recommended?

TT120

iTrader: (8)

Thats the same kind of tires I have. They definately like to run in 1 direction.

Another thing that comes to mind is the toe adjustment. If they're toed out, it will tend to wander on the straights. try adjusting a little toe in, that should make it more stable. The more toe in you have, the less steering you'll have coming into the corners. With toe out, you'll have more steering coming into a corner at the expense of wandering more in the straights.

Also, check your rear toe in, make sure they're the same. I run most of my rear toe in at 2 degrees. Keeps my back end planted behind my front end.

I run most of my cars at 0 degrees toe, meaning the front tires are pointing exactly straight ahead. 1 of my cars though, my Mugen MTX-3, is very stable anyway so I run that one with 1.5 degrees toe out. Gives me more turn in steering so I can carry a little more speed throught the corners.

For foams, I like Jaco Nitro Shoes. 30mm rear 35 to 37 shore and 26mm fronts 37 to 40 shore. The shore rating is the hardness of the foam. Lower shore numbers = softer tires = more grip = faster wear. I run softer tires in the rear than in the front so the back sticks a little better. I can drive a car that pushes better than I can a loose one. Your own driving style will dictate which foams you use.

I always use servo savers, the stock ones do me just fine. There's always going to be a little slop in the steering, especially the older the car gets but you should try to keep it at a minimum. A little toe in will also counter the effects of slop in the steering down the straights.

Rapid Roy

Trying to figure out what the problem is will be a lot easier if you give us some more information. Front & Rear: ride height, camber, toe in, shock oils, shock piston, springs, preload spacers used. Next, is the wandering happening when you are on the throttle, at a constant speed or decelerating. Does it pull to one side or is it just twitchy? I think you should check your front toe first. Generally, if the car is gets twitchy, you want toe increase the front toe in. You want the front wheels to point inwards anywhere from 1 to 2 degrees. Make sure you are running with a body and the f/r ride heights should be about 5mm. The last thing could be to turn down your eponental on your radio to slow the input a bit on the steering.

Rapid Roy

One last thing. If you lower the engine, you will need a non pull start flywheel otherwise the stock one will stick down through the chassis and touch the ground, which will stall the engine every time you hit a bump.

NickRummy

iTrader: (13)

Thanks once again TT. I have the car apart and I'm looking to get it back together soon. Gotta make these motor mounts when i have time....

I'd like to give more details but this is the first on road car I have owned and it was bought used so I have no idea what the guy ran. I'll try and gather up some more info.

I didn't drop the motor much. About 2.5mm which still keeps the flywheel above the chassis. Not much but it's still above it. I didn't want the flywheel hanging out the bottom.

I'll try toe adjustments first since they don't cost anything. TT do you have any pics of the way your tires are mounted? I'm pretty sure mine are right but I'd like to double check.

As for how it's letting lose. It's like when it gets to a certain speed the front wonders and by that time it's to out of control to regain control of. It's always to left it seems too.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Those tires suck. No wonder.

Get some team sorex or pit shimizu tires. Slicks....these will work much better. Better yet just score some foams , there tons to choose from and its cheaper.

Jaco Nitro Shoes
Twister Tires
Fast Tires
Eleggi

26mm fronts
30mm rears

Get like 40 shore you should be good.

NickRummy

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Artificial, Those tires are good for bashing? I'm not racing.

I also read a lot of people really liking the X patterns.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, all the crap I heard about treaded tires working good for the streets long time ago is bull. Slicks have always far and away beaten treaded tires.

I think the tread is a novelty to novice , new nitro drivers to get them to feel its like a real car. Otherwise slicks are going to provide superior life and traction. Ditch the pretty tires and get some slicks or foams.

LOL 18CVR on x-treads, yeah ditch those.

asil

there is a spring in between front diff gears in order to stiffen the diff action. when I removed this spring, my car felt just as yours. just check this spring if it exists part#: 87023 ... here is the pictre;

TT120

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, no pics. I haven't run mine for a while. They're ok up and down my street but I don't run there much anymore. I pretty much only run at a local track some friends and I operate so foams are what I run now.