Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

c05 and c10 blocks on order, cheers... not sure i ll bother lucas whom i ve never talked to, we ll try the car stock first, then start from there!

and, yes, airwave s ride was fast as hell a czple of weeks ago, not sre what happened during the mains, but this was the fastest i ve ever seen him run

a+
Paul

midse

iTrader: (8)

If you use v1 Roche Dcj with the newer v3 knuckles then the bearings actually almost always bind and mount slightly wider in the knuckles than the v1 and v2 knuckles. I'm assuming it's either a new tooling and or the harder plastic sets slightly thicker. Whatever the reason.

The fix is to buy the newer Roche/Radtec or arrowmax Dcj with the lightened centre axle shaft ( the drive pin hole is drilled wider to account for this change) or if you wish to use the v1 Roche shafts then you can try filing/sanding the bearing face off the hex which isn't a guaranteed fix. You might then have to test it in multiple sets of knuckles before finding some that don't cause the bearings to bind...

You'll also need to fit a .1 shim to account for the introduced slop and ensure the hex doesn't bind even more on the bearing. OR do what I did . Use your perfectly good 14 month old Roche v1 Dcj and purchase some 10mm alloy rod, Dremel a slot on the end and gently use it as a flat drill bit to file a very small amount of the bearing mount inside face.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Compiling setup sheets... what is it about yokomo springs that people want to use it over the stock ones? Looks like stiffness is about the same range. Is the "feel" different?

and about using them - I read Korey recommended to cut the bottom ballcups, wouldn't be using yokomo ballcups a bit more practical/consistent? Cutting exactly straight at exactly 1.75mm isn't that easy...

I know, I'm probably overthinking this

Thanks folks!
Paul

nicoo2k4

Yokomo springs.. I never use them. Car is a bit more easy on high traction, but always slower! It's my feeling..

Don't cut ballcups, use raceberry shock tower

For outside, I always use HPI Silver. Car is not faster but a lot more easy to drive over 5minutes! Need raceberry towers and change the shock length... But it was with d06 car. I'll try the d07 on my outdoor track this weekend, for the first time!

fmm

Does anybody knows any good chassis protector for the D07?

Thank you in advance

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

If I can add something about this setup... Indeed very efficient, very precise, despite the fact that a little bit more steering would be an asset, just as you noted on the setup sheet...

A very important point are the 2mm spacers to counter the bump-steer... I had to go for 0mm because my knuckle was fragile and the car become more incisive in the corners.

You are considering the C05 in the rear to make the rear train wider but did you already try C05 in the front to make the front train narrower?

Personally, I found the car very smooth, and people whom tried it find it too smooth, not aggressive enough lol

nicoo2k4

In front : C10 and F00. Car is more smooth and less aggresive in corner entry.

Rear : C05 E30. Give a bit more steering in corner entry. But lost some corner speed. So it's good for small track. On open track, like ETS, C00 and E30 give more corner speed.

I also play a lot with screws under motormount.

With the D06 on outside track, I was running E10 and C10. Ultra narrow, with a lot of steering. During winter, I tried E15 and C05 but it's too much steering.

And yes, d07 is really smooth, this is why I love this car. Just drive easy, no need to push... Less mistake, more faster

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the advice For now, I'm still inside, so I'll stick to VBC springs, sounds like a better solution anyway. I have HPI Silvers for the outside, we'll see in due time.

Jon - I know what track you tested this at Remember that with the tires we were using, all cars were missing steering anyway (mine included), especially as the day went by, only Raf's car was turning in properly somehow (and that's what allowed him in two laps before the end).

I have my kit, springs, hopups, I'll start building it this week, with the alum chassis right away. Can someone point me to a starting setup for a medium grip carpet with ridiculously lazy tires that prevent the car from rotating? For reference, on my BD7 '15 I was running 500 oil all around and low front RC + high rear RC, 2.5 rear toe, front arm sweep, 1mm ackerman shims, same springs F/R, full lock, lots of rear droop, etc... and the BD7 isn't supposed to be lazy at all as most of us know. That's for a flowing (still with a few hairpins), mid-to-large-sized track, 13.5 boosted.

Thanks!
Paul

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Epic 1 Designs chassis protectors are awesome. They can be peeled back for maintenance on the car and then reapplied with no issue. Usually available at Gridworksracing.com. Seem to be out of stock at the moment.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

I started the build yesterday, with the rear diff and spool.

This is an engineer's car... there are many tricks in the diff design. The super smooth rings, the notch to ensure you put it at the right place, the thick "plastified" gasket, and the icing on the cake the extra holes on the gasket so it doesn't rotate with the assembly. That is totally brilliant, I can't believe it hasn't been done before! The bd7 has notches in the paper gasket but it sure isn't as practical. On the downside, the mold flashings on the satellites at the injection point (crap, that makes me remember i didn't check the planetaries...) are shocking and must be sanded out carefully. Diff feels fine once built but will still be better after a few packs of break-in

I cannot say I like the spool as much though. CA'ing the flange? C'mon... I thought the 21st century started 15 yrs ago. Of course I did a mess with the CA. CA is for tires, damnit... Composite outdrives, I have mixed emotions too, plus you can't check the wear visually as its. Does anyone know of aftermarket (or other brand) alloy outdrives that fit?

Next are shocks... I've only heard good things about them, I was told they are Roche shocks actually, is this the case? Can't wait!

Paul

nicoo2k4

Hi Paul,

For spool outdirve, you must use composite version. They are unbreakable!
I did 3 ETS, 4Nats rounds and a lot of testing without any issue... Im running 4.5T motor...

For shock, they are great! U just should add a small shim (0.1) Under the piston

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Will do, thanks for the tip. I really like (on paper at least) the fact that there's composite shaft guides on both sides of the o-ring in the cartridge. I can't understand why most manufacturers let the shock shaft get scratched on the alloy shock body.... again, this is an engineer's car (notwithstanding that stupid CA spool thing)

Airwave

iTrader: (1)

If you can have a spool molded for the half of the price of a monobloc one and use a little bit of CA, that's an engineer's solution ;-)

You have a more beautiful spool in option ^^

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

Hi Paul,

I use these aftermarket parts for the spool:

7075 Aluminum Spool Shaft B-02-VBC-0094
Lightweight Hardened Spool Outdrive A-03-VBC-0106

For shocks, I use .2mm shim for piston.

Antoni

xterray

iTrader: (3)

Does it matter what way the piston sits as it has 2 different faces