syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Oh, I just noticed that the bladders that came in a new kit seemed much stiffer than the bladders I got in my kit, and even those I bought as replacements a while back. I'm just wondering if maybe Corally changed the compound recently, they tend to quietly sneak little changes in there sometimes.

gmintimidator

iTrader: (3)

Anyone has some advice for a newb to RDX as far as what to look for and ask about when looking at picking up a used RDX? What sould I expect to pay for a roller chassis?

T1Raycer

advise when you will buy a kit and you feel you need to clean the diff!! when you rebuilt it dont overtigth the screw cause it will brake and you will need to buy a new piece of diff for your car!! also if the car dont have the front SRC bumper buy it!! it will help the car to dont brake and it will save you some arm and money ehhe!!!

gmintimidator

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info on the diff.

Is there anything on the car that is particularily prone to wear or breaks? I just don't want to get caught paying like $250 for a car and then having to spend a bunch on it to make it race ready to the point I should've just bought a new kit in the first place.

Also, where are you guys getting your parts from? I would have to mail order my stuff since the local hobby shop doesn't support this car. I checked on stormerhobbies.com and they didn't list a bunch of the misc screws, and the shock rebuild stuff

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Anyone had bent or out of shape diff output shafts? Bought all new pieces for my diff except those and built them up nicely and it seems to be catching at a certain point in the turn. Built two brand new diffs last week for my other car and they are perfect. Cant figure out the problem with this one except that it seems one or both of the halves might be out of shape?

RichO

iTrader: (2)

Are the new lowered shock towers meant for carpet, asphalt or both?

Are they currently being shipped in the carpet kits?

barnacle

iTrader: (9)

or8ital-

check the c-clip in the diff halve that holds the thrust washers. If it got bent during a rebuild it will catch and make a tight spot.

Rainman40

If you have to do mail order go right to the source, SuperiorHobbies.com they are the US distributor for Corally.

shaggster

iTrader: (2)

Just wondering if anyone has tried the lowered shock towers on both the front and rear of the cars for the same suspension geometry w/ the cut off shock shafts?

Thanx,
Shaggy

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Im lost on this. I bought the new diff halves and it didnt fix my problem. Thinking it might be the c-clip I built the diff as the long half comes (with the thrust installed) and it still seemed "notchy". Tried rebuilding again and still feels notchy. Everything is brand new. Ugh....

Using the associated grease and lube...

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

They are usually used for Carpet with foam tires so you can slam the body down further. It's hard to get the correct ride height sometimes if you use the lowered tower with rubber tires. They are also not included with the latest carpet spec kits.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I've always used the normal one on the rear. Your suspension geometry almost remains the same if done properly. If you drill out a std tower to lower it yes... that lowers the roll center a few mm, and gives the camber links more angle. It will generally produce a little more mid-exit grip with a touch less turn in if you drill your own. It will also create a little more body roll as well.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Try sanding your diff rings with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then 600. You might find some high spots in the diff rings.

-Korey

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Is the snap ring perfectly even inside the notch inside the diff half? Every notchy diff I've had always goes back to the thrust assembly. It's easy to slightly bend that ring when removing it and inserting it.

You can buy snap rings in bulk, on the cheap from X-Ray.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Someone may correct me on this, but I don't think the lowered tower actually changes the geometry. It's even got the holes to keep rollcenters the same. I -think- the main purpose of it is so that you can slam bodies down low in the front. The idea of cutting the shock shaft makes it possible to make ride height, and keeps the shock piston in the same position within the shock body as it would be with the normal tower. There's some debate on whether or not that part of it really matters. It does let you get the body down low though, and makes it easier to get lower ride height.

I think the lowered tower in the rear would rub the belt.