TripleX-JT

iTrader: (1)

Truck looks sweet

rregl0612

iTrader: (33)

Here is something you guys might like .. Great info on set up I especially liked the Roll center.. LMK if it doesnt work..

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/1/1_content.html
I snagged this from the Jammin forums.. Ssshhh!!!

caeemn

iTrader: (3)

I have the upgraded top part of the bell crank, now I've gone through 2 of the lower part. I though someone said something about a different brand lasting longer but can't find the post.

lockmouth

iTrader: (33)

You must have something binding?? I've had the same bottom half for 6 months with no problems

Take it apart and re-assemble the servo saver. Compress the spring with some pliers and put alittle telfon lube on the servo saver tube. Put it all back together an work the sevo saver by hand several times. You should be good to go, make sure everything moves freely and smooth on both sides. Also make sure the servo saver is not to tight, I run mine tight, but haven't had any problem. Alway keep it sprayed with WD-40 between races

ILDRVR

Gene can we get those new arms? There are only a few serious Matrix Tr racers at my track trying to prove that Cen can hang with the Jammins and Losi . We all are getting frustrated from not finishing races do to one poor landing and the bone poping out. We have all read and tried the advice on the previous posts, but it still happens.

I know we would love a fix (that does not cost a fortune)

Other than that I am having a blast with my truck. Last week, I just put the diff pins in and now I am getting used to them.

Thanks for the help

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

have you tried converting to 17mm wheels? that should eliminate the problem 100%,

fuzz86

iTrader: (12)

I didn`t want to convert my rims all over to 17mm so I put my 23mm hex's in a lathe and turned off close to 1mm from the back of the hex between the drive pin and the hub). This allows you to put a shim between the drive shaft and the inner bearing. The shim would be the same size as the material removed from the hex. I machined the hex so it was the same profile from pin to hub as the buggy 17mm hexes.

I have yet to have a shaft pop out yet.

The only issue I had was at full lock the hex and rim would contact the rear hinge pin and pop off the c-clip ( possibly only because I have done extra work to the hubs and steering linkage for extra throw ). To fix that I just did the captured hinge pin mod - using 2 screws to hole in the pin.

Hope this helps.

ILDRVR

No I have not, but I would like to keep the 23mm if possible. I may look into trying fuzz's option

Thanks

Rawz

Hellos guys. I would like to know about a situation I come into, building the TR.

In the image



the nylon part 1 drags in the nylon part 2. This should be free, right ?
I think the part 3 should be a bit longer, so the bearing would be free to act.
If that made sense, what did you do about it ?


Thank for the reply!

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

I used a really thin clutch shim and sat it on top of the bearing. Worked great and removed the drag.

All most every car I have ever built needed some shimming on the steering bellcranks.

Rawz

Ok, that did it. Thankx for the tip!

bobf24

iTrader: (28)

just sand down the bellcrank a bit to give more clearance, or use a shim like outtafocus said, I hate small shims though because if your in a hurry to throw it back together, shims can be a pain,

MikeyMike1969

iTrader: (2)

Hi Gene, is this the Paul Womble in Highland City? He's also an amateur radio operator. If so I've known him for years but haven't talked to him in quite a while...

outtafocus

iTrader: (12)

I have a question regarding my TR under hard braking.

The nose of my truck drops severly under hard braking at the end of our straightaway.
I am running the stock CEN 30wt oil with #2s all around.the upper arm is in the top mounting hole the shocks are mounted inner hole on arm and middle lower on tower.

Any suggestions as to help keeping the truck more level and reduce the nose diving?
The Jammins and Losi's still nose dive a little but not as much as my TR, this is the only area I feel I loose ground to the other trucks, as they seem to have more control under this hard breaking.
I will also try going with more rear brake and less front.


Also, what rear block are most guys running on a fairly loose and bumpy track? Its time to pick up a CNC aluminum part.

Im sure other guys have also seen this but I found this shock oil converter on buggy-sport.info

http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php


Congrats to all CEN drivers, you guys put in an awesome effort this weekend at the FarmII

Machine's R/C H

I use #1 pistons in the front with 700cps oil. (like 60wt).
30wt with # 2's is way to thin.