mrjudd77

Might have mine set at 5-10% On another note my reverse came back to life after the 3rd heat. Weird XeRun speedy

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

You guys run reverse on your speedos? That's weird

mrjudd77

Don't normally worry about reverse. Was trying to stop in the pits and it suddenly went into reverse. I thought I had taken it off.

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

Ha, sprung ya cheatin', if you're in blinky mode then ya ain't got no reverse.


Gunna run to the scrutineers next race meeting & complain about ya!!!!!!

Butler02

Blinky mode doesn't mean there is no reverse. It has to be turned off with the program card. Just sayin'

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

Na, he's definitely cheatin', gotta be as he's beatin' me all the time.

greener380

Haven't started my S1 build yet. Going to place an order soon to get all the sway bar parts. Does the S1 kit include the sway bar holder ball ends? These are the ones grouped together with the shock parts on the TQ racing site. Thanks!

Butler02

My s1's came with everything needed except for the sway bar itself and the metal stopper that keeps it from moving side to side.

greener380

Nice. Thanks for the quick reply. Saved me from ordering parts I don't need. Thanks!

valk

iTrader: (13)

You will need extra ballstuds set screws and a set of ballcups. Good opportunity to upgrade to tamiya low friction ballcups. Swaybars don't need them. All the rest of the turnbuckles do though. Also maybe get two sets of ballstuds then you can try moving the rear bar around some with the rear arm holes.

DBM

Greetings! This is my first post on this forum, so hopefully I don't make too much of a fool of myself. :P

I'm completely new to RC cars, and have only been reading about them for a few days now. I've been into RC combat robotics, RC planes, and have 14 years of Autocross racing experience, as well as 3 years of circletrack racing experience. However, racing real cars is very expensive and time consuming, so last week I decided to get into on-road RC car racing.

After a visit to my local RC car club to see what classes were supported, I've decided to buy/build a Spec-R R1 Pro Spec for the 17.5 stock class. 45% of the local guys run Xrays, 45% run Serpents, and 10% run Tamiya 417. They all insisted that I be like them and buy a high end cars due to them being much more reliable. However, I don't want to invest that much into the car since I'm just getting into the hobby. Buying a radio, tools, and supplies will double the cost. With that said, I was going to buy a Sakura XI Sport and upgrade some of the parts to more reliable aluminum parts from the Ultimate. Then I thought, why don't I just buy an ultimate? It is only $290. Then I started reading about the R1, and read that it is basically a combination of Xray and Tamiya, but for half the price! I hope to order one ASAP. However, I have many questions, and I hope you can help!

What all should I buy with the kit to resolve any issues that it might have? I've read that the S1 needed a pair of 5x8x2.5mm flanged bearings iirc, but I'm unclear on if the R1 suffers from the same problem.

Do I need to order some shim washers to take up play in the steering?

I realize that since I am a complete noob, that I likely won't notice if the car isn't set up perfectly....my lack of driving skill will definitely be the limiting factor, but I just don't want to have to be ordering a bunch of little items every week when I could order most of them at once.

I was going to order the 3racing 52mm SSK's to instal during the build of the car, and keep the kit axles for spares. Should I be ordering anything else to go with them? I have no idea what drive shaft blades are. Are they something that I should keep spares of? I've added a couple of C-hubs to my cart since there is a good chance that I might break some. I've read that some people have had problems with the out drives (I don't even know what those are....I'm such a noob), should I order some upgraded versions of those, too?

I'm also curious what pinion I should buy for the 17.5 stock class. Our track is pretty short and tight...8 second lap times I'm assuming I should aim for a FDR of maybe 5.5ish due to the low speed nature of our track?

Sorry for all of the silly questions! I appreciate any help and guidance you can offer! I'm looking forward to placing the order!

-Dennis

valk

iTrader: (13)

this is everything i baught with my s1 to give it the tweakability i wanted;

Upgrades from the R1. I bought these before even assembling the car. probably not needed but definitely nice to have.

SPR-R1A110 Aluminum wheel hex $6.99
SPR-R1A115 Aluminum Pivot Mount front $7.99
SPR-R1A116 Aluminum Split pivot mount $10.99
SPR-R1P307 Suspension mount insert set $3.99

These parts optional if you want swaybars;

SPR-R1H716 Anti Roll bar set 1.1-1.5mm $6.99
SPR-R1H719 Steel Ballstuds $3.99
SPR-R1P306 Turnbuckle ends $1.99
SPR-R1B801 M3x3 setscrew $2.99
SPR-R1A123 Anti Roll Bar Stopper $3.49

Spares; I got two of each, 301-303

SPR-R1A103 Chub Bushing set $3.99
SPR-R1A122 2x10mm Pin "incase you didnt get aluminum wheel hex's" $1.99
SPR-R1P301 C-hubs 4º $6.99
SPR-R1P302 Suspension Arms f/r $6.99
SPR-R1P303 Steering block/rear upright $6.99
SPR-R1P304 Spool Outdrive $5.49

Shims for Pitbox/assembling car with greater precision;
Tamiya 53585 3mm 0.1-0.3mm washers 10pc each $5.99
3Racing 3RAC-SW05 5mm 0.1-0.3mm washers 10pc each $3.99
3Racing 3RAC-WF305/RE Aluminum m3 washer 0.5mm red 10pc $3.49
3Racing 3RAC-WF310/RE Aluminum m3 washer 1mm red 10pc $3.49
3Racing 3RAC-WF320/RE Aluminum m3 washer 2mm red 10pc $3.49

id also substitude the stock rod ends for tamiya ones. you will want them on the steering at very least. adjusting the camber links is tricky as they keep popping off so id plan to replace all of them. otherwise, ive been pretty happy with my s1 in mostly stock form. the only desperate thing you want is aluminum hexes. everything else is simply "nice to have" start buying aluminum hopups or cf and you might as well look at an R1 instead.

i think spec r makes their own DJCS you could look at. not sure how the price compares.

ill say this from building mine... buy the 3racing shims ive listed.. the stock plastic shims are garbage and will have stuff like arm mounts just way too tight. but otherwise, enjoy it. its a cheap car that can hang with the fast ones if you can wheel it and keep it off the boards. mine worked fantastic outdoors. less so indoors but still pretty good.
the 5mm shims will allow you to adjust the axles to not compress the bearings when you apply the wheel nuts. I might have picked up some much thicker 5mm shims for this next time. like 5x6x2 or similar. most people prob dont bother with this step that isnt outlined in any manual, but most cars have wheel bearings that will compress together. you can shim them so the inner races of both bearings are compressed against eachother instead of being tweaked by the outer race.

kinda fidly, but really helps keep the bearings from blowing up and keeps them spinning freely.

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

If your getting the R1 kit and just getting into it I would say two things, good choice for starters and $$ ...... and get the DJC's when you order the kit. Really other then that I wouldnt worry to much about anything fancy besides the Tamiya ball cups (they just fit so much better).

For extras/spares -
Front arms
Front C's
Front knuckles
Front spool cups (ive blown 2 up from corner clips)

Gear down one tooth from what everyone is running - take your time driving and learn the car.

Many of the setup sheets can be used to try things on your car (im using one for an ARC R10 from nationals) and find yourself something close to what you like. The good thing about the car is Xray stuff works on it so if you want to upgrade or need a fix quick you can usually find someone with a spare at any track.

As for following the norm ..... Im the same way. Local track is mostly Xrays and some Associated, I had to be different and run a Serpent. Now I run the R1 and people are asking me about the car and saying they are impressed with how well it runs.

Justin Mack

iTrader: (2)

Just A note for you guys!

IMO Front DJC's or Front Gear Diff or Both is a must have!

For both the S1 and R1

My local track isn't the tightest most technical carpet track in the world but it does have its technical spots and I was having issues keeping my motor temps low enough running gearing to keep up with everyone else! I double checked my car for binding multiple times and couldn't figure it out! haha so I said screw it and kept spare motors in the box! But a couple of races ago I decided to try a gear diff in front with 1,000,000 weight oil in it (1 million) the front wheel shutter while turning completely went away! and motor temps dropped almost 30 degrees! now here's the kicker the gear diff makes the car much more responsive in the front end and tends to make the car turn too well for me (In my buddies hands this setup was fast!!!) so for now, I am still faster with the spool because for my skill level a planted easier-to-drive car is better! however, with the spool I HAVE to run DJC's or the shutter/binding comes back!

DBM

Thanks for all of the help so far! I'm on my phone so will have to be brief.
Are these the 'spool cups' that I should be buying: SPR020-SCXR2
Sorry for not posting a direct link. ...I do not have enough posts to be allowed to post links.