Picco .12 Torque 2011 sluggish out of corners
03-07-2012, 01:33 PM
#1
Picco .12 Torque 2011 sluggish out of corners
Hi,
I'm having issues with my .12 Picco Torque 2011 motor. It will be fine at the start of a race, but at about2-3 min into the race, the motor bogs down when I try to accelerate from a sharp corner. Initially I thought the motor was to reach at the bottom, but I've leaned it a lot and it still does it.
Its almost like the car go into a model where is stand for a second, and then just jumps off at pace.
And Idea?
Im also looking at the def carb settings if anyone has them please?
What temps do you run these motors at as well please?
Thanks
I'm having issues with my .12 Picco Torque 2011 motor. It will be fine at the start of a race, but at about2-3 min into the race, the motor bogs down when I try to accelerate from a sharp corner. Initially I thought the motor was to reach at the bottom, but I've leaned it a lot and it still does it.
Its almost like the car go into a model where is stand for a second, and then just jumps off at pace.
And Idea?
Im also looking at the def carb settings if anyone has them please?
What temps do you run these motors at as well please?
Thanks
03-07-2012, 02:14 PM
#3
I'd say it's way to lean on the bottom.
Picco carbs need to be rich on the low end needle and VERY important, those composite carbs need a few laps to heat up.
If you adjust a Picco carb too early, you'll lean it out and kill it.
Run at least 4-5 laps at race speed, before you attempt any adjustments.
Picco carbs need to be rich on the low end needle and VERY important, those composite carbs need a few laps to heat up.
If you adjust a Picco carb too early, you'll lean it out and kill it.
Run at least 4-5 laps at race speed, before you attempt any adjustments.
03-07-2012, 03:47 PM
#4
I'd say it's way to lean on the bottom.
Picco carbs need to be rich on the low end needle and VERY important, those composite carbs need a few laps to heat up.
If you adjust a Picco carb too early, you'll lean it out and kill it.
Run at least 4-5 laps at race speed, before you attempt any adjustments.
Picco carbs need to be rich on the low end needle and VERY important, those composite carbs need a few laps to heat up.
If you adjust a Picco carb too early, you'll lean it out and kill it.
Run at least 4-5 laps at race speed, before you attempt any adjustments.
Last edited by Geezatec; 03-07-2012 at 04:41 PM.
03-08-2012, 10:47 AM
#6
initially I thought it was to rich at the bottom.
I even tried the steps from the picco site
"Start leaning the low speed needle a little at a time (then repeat the reving up and idle test) and if it takes longer before the idle drops you are going in the right direction!
Eventually as you keep leaning with the low speed needle the idle will stay high, now it is time to lower the idle to get the desired low RPM. Finally richen the low speed needle half turn."
When I followed these step, I had to go in a lot on the bottom needle. Which made me think that it was to rich at the bottom, but I still had the same problem later in the day. I checked the tank seal and also change fuel lines before the last club race, but still had the same problem.
I even tried the steps from the picco site
"Start leaning the low speed needle a little at a time (then repeat the reving up and idle test) and if it takes longer before the idle drops you are going in the right direction!
Eventually as you keep leaning with the low speed needle the idle will stay high, now it is time to lower the idle to get the desired low RPM. Finally richen the low speed needle half turn."
When I followed these step, I had to go in a lot on the bottom needle. Which made me think that it was to rich at the bottom, but I still had the same problem later in the day. I checked the tank seal and also change fuel lines before the last club race, but still had the same problem.
03-08-2012, 01:41 PM
#7
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Well I had a picco JPX .21 engine and I wanted to turn the nipple on the high-speed needle. So when I would run it, after 2/3 of the tank was gone it would big down. I checked the fuel tank, plug and fuel line and got nothing. When I tightened the high speed needle valve 1/24 of a turn my engine ran perfectly. 
03-08-2012, 05:29 PM
#8
If it takes awhile for idle speed to drop, it running too lean. What you lookin for, idle speed drops half a second to 1 second and go from there. Run a few laps and adjust as needed(LSN).
03-08-2012, 09:27 PM
#9
If it's too rich on the bottom, you need to turn in the idle screw to keep it running and then, when you clear it out, the idle is too high and it takes a bit to load up again and drop the idle speed.
03-09-2012, 01:22 AM
#10
Had this problem with the Picco torque going high idle. Changed the bearings and the problem disappeared. Great engine. Fastest one i have. And i also have a Murnan M3. Picco the best 
(besides the bearings though)
Try if you have sideway play on the crankshaft.
(besides the bearings though)Try if you have sideway play on the crankshaft.
03-09-2012, 09:27 AM
#11
Try if you have sideway play on the crankshaft.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
If it takes awhile for idle speed to drop, it running too lean. What you lookin for, idle speed drops half a second to 1 second and go from there. Run a few laps and adjust as needed(LSN).
Sorry to disagree, but when it takes a long time to drop the idle speed, then it's usually to eich on the bottom.
If it's too rich on the bottom, you need to turn in the idle screw to keep it running and then, when you clear it out, the idle is too high and it takes a bit to load up again and drop the idle speed.
Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
If it takes awhile for idle speed to drop, it running too lean. What you lookin for, idle speed drops half a second to 1 second and go from there. Run a few laps and adjust as needed(LSN).
Sorry to disagree, but when it takes a long time to drop the idle speed, then it's usually to eich on the bottom.
If it's too rich on the bottom, you need to turn in the idle screw to keep it running and then, when you clear it out, the idle is too high and it takes a bit to load up again and drop the idle speed.
I guess I will have to strip the engine completely to check if I can see something wrong.
03-10-2012, 08:04 AM
#12
There is no side play on the crank.
The idling is fine. When the throttle is closed the revs drop down immediately. Its only on the track when trying to accelerate from slow corners. It I keep the refs up just above idling revs, when going around the corner, the problem is gone. Its only when I get of the throttle, turn, and accelerate that this happen. When the car is of the track after the run,and I run it on the starter box when still hot the problem is gone.
I guess I will have to strip the engine completely to check if I can see something wrong.
The idling is fine. When the throttle is closed the revs drop down immediately. Its only on the track when trying to accelerate from slow corners. It I keep the refs up just above idling revs, when going around the corner, the problem is gone. Its only when I get of the throttle, turn, and accelerate that this happen. When the car is of the track after the run,and I run it on the starter box when still hot the problem is gone.
I guess I will have to strip the engine completely to check if I can see something wrong.
What TX are you useing?? Does have servo speed you can adjust?? Slowing down the speed of the throttle may help. and propapbly rectify half the trouble you have.
From off idle, 1/3 throttle to Idle speed stop. It drop speed right away. Try adjusting LSN so it drops so idle speed 1/2 second to 1 second
Last edited by Geezatec; 03-10-2012 at 08:16 AM.
03-10-2012, 10:18 AM
#13
What the temp of engine at normal running.
If that alright you just have to do some maintenance on the clutch you have.
Slowing down the speed of the throttle may help. and propapbly rectify half the trouble you have.
03-10-2012, 10:50 AM
#14
115 C!!! I deal with F. 115C = 239F That says it's too lean. 180F-205F more like for temp. That's in the US where I'm at. 58F-109F i run at, 102F-109 in ther summer. If you run that hot in SA, and hot weather. try a cooler glow plug. I go a couple cooler plug when running over 102F ambient temp. This is my opnion only!!! I can be wrong!!!
03-10-2012, 02:10 PM
#15
Sounds like a 'lean bog' caused by fuel tank pressure dropping as the fuel comes down during a run. What brand of car are you running? Have had some fuel tanks more sensitive than others for this problem.... Would maybe try re-tuning your engine towards the end of a test run as the fuel gets low in the tank.