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Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC

Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC

Old 12-13-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul L
Hi, sorry i didnt make it. i hope the race went great!
Yeah, Hebert and Henderson said you'd be scared ...................jk

Race was awesome a full field of Mod T/C and small but quality field in Mod 1/12......next race in series back to the Gate
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Old 12-13-2010, 04:25 PM
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Paul, do you use the CVD or ECS in the front?
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Old 12-13-2010, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by peter_robinson
Paul, do you use the CVD or ECS in the front?
The ESC goes in the middle somewhere....LOL
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:18 PM
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Paul, when is the shock building video going to post?

My car seems to unload the rear when pushing it hard into a corner, if I go through it smooth no problem but if I over shoot and have to correct is wants to oversteer. What would you do to fix it? It's like it wants to roll over more than it needs to.

JG
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:06 AM
  #710  
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Originally Posted by miller tyme
Yeah, Hebert and Henderson said you'd be scared ...................jk

Race was awesome a full field of Mod T/C and small but quality field in Mod 1/12......next race in series back to the Gate
cool, thanks for the update!

Originally Posted by peter_robinson
Paul, do you use the CVD or ECS in the front?
I use ECS shafts

Originally Posted by jgraham37128
Paul, when is the shock building video going to post?

My car seems to unload the rear when pushing it hard into a corner, if I go through it smooth no problem but if I over shoot and have to correct is wants to oversteer. What would you do to fix it? It's like it wants to roll over more than it needs to.

JG
Hi. I dont know when the Video will be posted, sorry.
I would start by trying the wide hexs in the front and narrow ones in the rear. I would then look at my set up from Cleveland and see what the other major differences are. for me that set up did a good job of rolling evenly.

Thanks
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul L



I use ECS shafts


I figured... just didn't know, Thanks.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:12 PM
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Paul, I need to add 17 grams of weight to my car. I've already added 17 grams to the center of the car, but need 17 more in order to get to the 1400 grams. The car is balanced front to rear almost perfect right now on the scales. Where would you add the weight? front or rear or would you move things around and keep the weight in the center as best as you could?


What's the weight front to rear ratio on your car?

Thanks,
JG
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jgraham37128
Paul, I need to add 17 grams of weight to my car. I've already added 17 grams to the center of the car, but need 17 more in order to get to the 1400 grams. The car is balanced front to rear almost perfect right now on the scales. Where would you add the weight? front or rear or would you move things around and keep the weight in the center as best as you could?


What's the weight front to rear ratio on your car?

Thanks,
JG
JG,

Do you know that the new ROAR minimum weight standard for TC is going to be 1,380 gm?

Seems like you are about perfect...

Bill
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill
JG,

Do you know that the new ROAR minimum weight standard for TC is going to be 1,380 gm?

Seems like you are about perfect...

Bill
Snowbirds is 1400 grams. This is why I'm having to add the 17 grams.
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jgraham37128
Paul, I need to add 17 grams of weight to my car. I've already added 17 grams to the center of the car, but need 17 more in order to get to the 1400 grams. The car is balanced front to rear almost perfect right now on the scales. Where would you add the weight? front or rear or would you move things around and keep the weight in the center as best as you could?


What's the weight front to rear ratio on your car?

Thanks,
JG

I would leave it off for now.
20g is a good tuneing aid. If the car is a little loose throw 10g per side in front of the battery and servo, if the car is a little pushy i would put 5 behind the motor and 15 behind the battery. i have never put my current car on scales so i dont know.

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul L
I use the aluminum outdrive cups, this way the blades lasts a long time and they are easy to replace. that being said, if i had a sack of 100 plastic outdrives I would use those and just replace them every couple of runs.
Paul,

Two questions for you, the first is in reference to your post regarding the outdrives. As the plastic out-drives wear does the car develop a push? I've been running the new T3'11 for the past few weeks and my car has developed a push that I just can't seem to get rid of, especially entering the turns. It makes me believe something has worn and is overriding my changes. The first night it was money, the 2nd was good, but now it feels like a dump truck as the car has worn in. I've keep it clean and everything is in check, and oils kept fresh, so the only thing I can think it may be is the added play in the out-drives.

I'm very close to your first T3'11 setup you posted. Do you think your Cleveland setup would be better for a ultra tight track with lots of slow tight turns.

Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jkirkwood
Paul,

Two questions for you, the first is in reference to your post regarding the outdrives. As the plastic out-drives wear does the car develop a push? I've been running the new T3'11 for the past few weeks and my car has developed a push that I just can't seem to get rid of, especially entering the turns. It makes me believe something has worn and is overriding my changes. The first night it was money, the 2nd was good, but now it feels like a dump truck as the car has worn in. I've keep it clean and everything is in check, and oils kept fresh, so the only thing I can think it may be is the added play in the out-drives.

I'm very close to your first T3'11 setup you posted. Do you think your Cleveland setup would be better for a ultra tight track with lots of slow tight turns.

Thanks.
Hi. I definately think that my cleveland set up is the best 011 set up to date.
I noticed that my car just became inconsistent when my plastic outdrives would wear, I would definately try changing them but im not sure it will cure your push. on carpet sometimes tires will continue to push more and more as they get older BC of the fronts getting more wear every run compaired to the rears, so that is my first thought.
when a carpet track gets more traction the car will generally push more also so that is a possibility. i would try new outdrives first, then try new tires. if the outdrives help, your good. If the tires cure it, then you know that you need to make a set up change for older tires. if niether helps then you can almost for sure say that it is the grip level causing the push, in which set up changes will be made also.
First off, camber is King on a set up. I have never had a car that wouldnt spin out with 3degs of front and 0.5 deg of rear camber (im not saying to go that far). so maybe you need 2F and 1.5R camber or something simple like that. but definately check out my cleveland set up, It is a pushy set up also but it was very good for me. and changes can definately be made to make it steer.

hope this helps, Thanks.

paul
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:47 PM
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b

Last edited by eded1; 12-21-2010 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:48 PM
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Hi Paul.

Short one, have you raced with the new HPI spec tyres, and if, what
do you think of them.

Regards

Ed
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:51 PM
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Paul, thanks for the tips. I ended up softening the dampening rate in the rear tonight which I felt gave a bit more steering, or the feeling of more response, entering the turn. Then finished up with 2 deg front and 1.5 rear vs 1.5 front and 3 rear. Qualifying was a new track record by a few sec even when missing my gearing. In the main I compounded a bit more of the front tires and the car was even better.
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