Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
The motor shouldn't be running in reverse rotation. It's rotational direction in relation to the wheels should be opposite though.
I know other people disagree but I only run the diff nut on the right side, regardless of motor orientation. I always adjust it on the left side only. I learned this with a direct drive on my RC10 in the late 80's. If the adjustment screw was on the right side, it would be more prone to loosen. If the adjustment screw is on the left, it isn't. I've never had a problem since. Where is yours?
I know other people disagree but I only run the diff nut on the right side, regardless of motor orientation. I always adjust it on the left side only. I learned this with a direct drive on my RC10 in the late 80's. If the adjustment screw was on the right side, it would be more prone to loosen. If the adjustment screw is on the left, it isn't. I've never had a problem since. Where is yours?
Adjustment of diff is on Left.
You need to take the gearbox apart and move the motor plate and spur gear to the other side. Then put your esc setting back to normal.
Nevermind i just ordered two Turnigy Nanotech Shorty 4300mah packs.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
Hey guys, new to forum so I'm sure this has been asked already but im running rtr version and bought it with mid motor set up. I wanted it back to rear and all went well other than now forward throttle goes reverse. I'm pretty sure there's no reverse on motor so I have to change something else but not sure what it is yet. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Why don't you just get the Idle gear set (TD310238) recommended when converting from rear to mid motor? it goes from 3 gears in rear motor to 4 gears in mid motor. They have it at metro hobbies. I did it that way with my dex210 rtr. You'll have to get a pair of M3x20mm hex screws though, as they don't come with the buggy.
This way you don't have to do any sort of programming changes to your esc.
Hey guys, new to forum so I'm sure this has been asked already but im running rtr version and bought it with mid motor set up. I wanted it back to rear and all went well other than now forward throttle goes reverse. I'm pretty sure there's no reverse on motor so I have to change something else but not sure what it is yet. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Because that would be 4 gear not 3 gear.
cvd's popping out of outdrives...
Just made the switch from the gear diff to a ball diff on my rtr kit and the ball diff outdrives seem to be too short. When the suspension is fully extended the vcd's pop out. Anyone else run in to this or have a solution?
thanks!
thanks!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD310417
I ran a Dex210v1 with the shorter outdrives with a Hrc block and never had issues but as soon as i went the the -2 Lrc block I was popping drive shafts.
Above outdrives fixed it. also the dex210v2 includes the longer outdrives amazing what 1.2mm of extra length can do
Also little article on oople about it
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125130
I ran a Dex210v1 with the shorter outdrives with a Hrc block and never had issues but as soon as i went the the -2 Lrc block I was popping drive shafts.
Above outdrives fixed it. also the dex210v2 includes the longer outdrives amazing what 1.2mm of extra length can do
Also little article on oople about it
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125130
Just purchased the longer outdrives from ebay! Thanks!
I am sure that this has been discussed but I need to ask. I am converting my V1 to a V2, I have purchased the shock towers (f & r), arms (f & r), gearbox. Is there anything I am missing. I have decided to stay with the Dimec chassis not go to the new aluminum chassis.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
The v2 has shorter front shock bodies and shafts.
Part # td330596 , td330597
Part # td330596 , td330597
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
New Dimec cups and 2mm hex Ball studs.
Front shock bodys and shafts Rear Shock Shafts
V2 Body
Ball diff out drives slightly longer.
Driveshaft CVD Pin mounting holes 90 deg rotated (I think)
Type B Mounts for MM and RM to suit v2 Gbox
Black front Spring
2 additional washers on the Spur shaft (see v2 manual)
-2 LRC RR Rear Alloy block
Type B RF Plastic blocks
Purple Orings in shocks
Type B pistons 2/3hole
Thats all I can think of.
I upgraded my v1 to a v2 with a Dimec20 +8mm chassis I compared the v1 and v2 manual to find the differences
Front shock bodys and shafts Rear Shock Shafts
V2 Body
Ball diff out drives slightly longer.
Driveshaft CVD Pin mounting holes 90 deg rotated (I think)
Type B Mounts for MM and RM to suit v2 Gbox
Black front Spring
2 additional washers on the Spur shaft (see v2 manual)
-2 LRC RR Rear Alloy block
Type B RF Plastic blocks
Purple Orings in shocks
Type B pistons 2/3hole
Thats all I can think of.
I upgraded my v1 to a v2 with a Dimec20 +8mm chassis I compared the v1 and v2 manual to find the differences
I have a V1 but changed to the V2 shocks, towers, and arms. Everything else is V1, including the HRC block.
I took a look at the manuel for the Dex210 V1 and it showed how to do the 3 gear mid gear and it looks like the spur gear and motor are at the same position as the 4 gear mid gear Spur gear on the driver side/motor endbell on the right side ?