4LikesSpeed Passion F1 car - The SP1
05-10-2013, 08:35 AM
#242
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
If it makes you feel any better my car was traction rolling pretty bad last night. I was at a larger track than the one I went to on Wednesday, and the increased speed at the end of the straight meant the car just immediately flipped.
Working on lowering ride height (body was rubbing really badly so I have ride height up around 6mm just to get it to not rub) and will give it another shot. Lowering ride height on the front of this car is ridiculous.
Working on lowering ride height (body was rubbing really badly so I have ride height up around 6mm just to get it to not rub) and will give it another shot. Lowering ride height on the front of this car is ridiculous.
05-10-2013, 10:28 AM
#244
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Built the car last night, high quality kit, a few things especially for pan car rookie:
1. extra page in the manual indicates 4 of 5x10x1mm spacers to put between rear axle and rear wheel, I can't find any of those. okay to drive without those?
2. that extra page also changed the front wheel's spacer setting, I guess that's the solution, though if I got the front wheel nut tight, the wheel doesn't spin.
3. it's the first kit I've built, that need you to open all the packages at once, then assemble it. All the other 10 kits I've built, I open package one by one and each of them have the part of the whole step.
4. what's the screw needed to mount tamiya front wing? I guess a long flat head M4 screw? with a big nut? any exact size?
5. to mount the rear wing, is that 2 screws with 2 nuts?
It's not on the manual anywhere, and tamiya manual is a bit different, they have front suspension mount to secure front wing, and they use plastic rear plate to mount rear wing.
6. the pivot balls have flashing in them, bigger problem is that, that's the very first step into building the car! very demotivational.
7. plastic for linkage and the rear center part (connecting two plates) are really soft, I used the AE linkage, but can't use the AE center part.
Due to the soft plastic, when the nuts got in, it will rotate inside, making it almost impossible to tighten or loosen it. I ended up cutting the side bit surrounding the nut, and use pliers to hold nuts in place.
8. the front suspension is cool, but it's not very smooth in the spring part, the pivot ball is normal scratchy plastic, and the shaft is some high friction metal.
The rear of the car is pretty much perfectly upgraded in other car's standard. But the front, either telling users to use F104 front, or spend money on upgrades to replace almost every piece of that front suspension.
1. extra page in the manual indicates 4 of 5x10x1mm spacers to put between rear axle and rear wheel, I can't find any of those. okay to drive without those?
2. that extra page also changed the front wheel's spacer setting, I guess that's the solution, though if I got the front wheel nut tight, the wheel doesn't spin.
3. it's the first kit I've built, that need you to open all the packages at once, then assemble it. All the other 10 kits I've built, I open package one by one and each of them have the part of the whole step.
4. what's the screw needed to mount tamiya front wing? I guess a long flat head M4 screw? with a big nut? any exact size?
5. to mount the rear wing, is that 2 screws with 2 nuts?
It's not on the manual anywhere, and tamiya manual is a bit different, they have front suspension mount to secure front wing, and they use plastic rear plate to mount rear wing.
6. the pivot balls have flashing in them, bigger problem is that, that's the very first step into building the car! very demotivational.
7. plastic for linkage and the rear center part (connecting two plates) are really soft, I used the AE linkage, but can't use the AE center part.
Due to the soft plastic, when the nuts got in, it will rotate inside, making it almost impossible to tighten or loosen it. I ended up cutting the side bit surrounding the nut, and use pliers to hold nuts in place.
8. the front suspension is cool, but it's not very smooth in the spring part, the pivot ball is normal scratchy plastic, and the shaft is some high friction metal.
The rear of the car is pretty much perfectly upgraded in other car's standard. But the front, either telling users to use F104 front, or spend money on upgrades to replace almost every piece of that front suspension.
Last edited by nicholasxuu; 05-10-2013 at 10:48 AM.
05-10-2013, 11:15 AM
#246
7. plastic for linkage and the rear center part (connecting two plates) are really soft, I used the AE linkage, but can't use the AE center part.
Due to the soft plastic, when the nuts got in, it will rotate inside, making it almost impossible to tighten or loosen it. I ended up cutting the side bit surrounding the nut, and use pliers to hold nuts in place.
Due to the soft plastic, when the nuts got in, it will rotate inside, making it almost impossible to tighten or loosen it. I ended up cutting the side bit surrounding the nut, and use pliers to hold nuts in place.
F104 wheels and tires will fit...same ones you used on the V2
05-10-2013, 03:54 PM
#248
I will have to find out...will get back to you next week. But honestly, I have not use that spring for indoor carpet, I used Tamiya BLACK (hard) spring...I think the stock one is fairly soft...it was intend to be used on FOAM with 200mm setup.
05-10-2013, 07:10 PM
#250
Another idea is to make shims like CRC makes for their pro strut front end. Long enough to span both screws on each side, then slot them slightly angled in so all you have to do is loosen the screws and snap them in place and snug them down.
05-11-2013, 03:02 AM
#252
Tech Rookie
It looks really great.
