bdyche

iTrader: (5)

It really depends on the surface. I have driven MM4 from 2011 up until last August, and when the grip can support it I will choose MM3 every time.

I ran my DEX210F in 2wd modified during the same weekend and was fortunate enough to put it into the A main. If the grip can support front motor, MM3 is no problem! I could imagine on a natural grass surface that MM4 would be safer, though.

I enjoy the feel of the car with less artificial weight transfer. Don't get me wrong, MM4 generates tons of bite (I've never driven a car on a loose surface that was better than an X Factory car), but I always find myself looking for more steering to be able to drive the car naturally. MM4 drives very much like a rear motor car, though it does carry more corner speed.

jcsantana92

iTrader: (3)

Is anyone running ribbed front tires? There's a new track being built in my city and nobody is sure how the grip going to end, supposedly mid-high, but a lot of guys do run ribbed in another low-mid track we have.

I've tried searching for the benefits of ribbed tires and haven't found much, would appreciate any comments.

I currently have front suburbs I think and a couple of others meant for clay style tracks (I bought my dex210 used a couple of weeks ago with those tires.)

bmag5000

Yes I will be running ribbed tires on the front on a huge 1/8th track outdoors.
The track is dusty so bow fighters were the best for 4wd Corr.
2wd Buggy ill be running Durango stock tires with Jconcepts Whipits.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

rib tires here for our outdoor conditions.

I know guys who run them indoors on carpet too as it can mellow out the steering response if they are having traction roll issues and not enough time to get that sorted.

I'd say its not a bad idea to have a "standard" rib type tire in the pit box for outdoors.

bmag5000

Not everyone runs castle to race with but I will.
Back in 2006-2007 people ran castle in my town.
Now everyone runs Tekin. Hardly ever see any novak stuff here.
Now the Tekin guys if I beat them I can say I beat you with a sidewinder that costs 3 times less.

Hitokiri_2000

I took mine out for a little test spin this morning.

It's pretty fast on 2S LiPo with the 6.5T motor, 120A ESC and the 31T pinion on a stock 87T spur. Now I have only driven it on asphalt and just did a few speed runs, I doubt it's suited for any off-road action or competition races as it would most likely burn the ESC.

That being said it's still fun to do short speed runs with.

jcsantana92

iTrader: (3)

What motors are most of you running?

I bought mine with a 13.5T and I feel that it's quit slow, not as fast as I would've wanted. I have a 60A esc with 81/31 Gearing which I'm planning to change to 78/28 when the 78T arrives, on 2S Lipo.

My Pro 2 with a 3,800kv seems much faster.
I like plenty of speed and the new track that is being built here has a good size and will have a long straight. Here's a link of the track being built:
https://app.box.com/s/ei1j3zbtkejc70zqpb3fl0v26m0r7bpx

I'm thinking about changing the motor, what would you guys recommend?
I've also been thinking about changing the Ball Diff for the Gear Diff, I'm not liking the feel of the Ball Diff. Any suggestions about that? Would appreciate any help. Im new to the DEX210

Cain

iTrader: (294)

that link is requiring a log on. You got another link?

If you feel a 13.5 is too slow even after gearing change, For larger mod tracks I personally like an 8.5T to 10.5 motor is pretty common here. but if the motor is not having any temp issues, work on the gearing. You can also play a bit with the timing on the motor too.

What about the ball diff specifically are you not liking?

WallyRC

I favor an 8.5T.
Need more info like Cain said. What's up with ball diff? Durango ones are smooth and long lasting. Maybe just need to rebuild it. Gear diffs are bullet proof but I'm finding that ball diffs handle better.

Devin

Our track was usually low grip by the time the mains came around and the 4wd SC, 8th scale buggy and Truggy churned up the dirt. I found ribs were best for putting the power down, as they kept the buggy pointed straighter under throttle. Most importantly it offered less grip, and on a loose track, having more front traction than rear means spin outs are easy. Steering is mild and predictable. Some guys like it on carpet to reduce traction roll, but fast guys will run grippy tires and find other ways to stop the roll.

They also stay clean real well, if the track waters and gets clumpy tread tires will clump and become mud caked slicks.

Dry medium tracks might be the no man land for them, but I've never ran in that condition.

what chassis did you Get? All the internet supports the plastic chassis on loose dirt but when I broke mine and ran the aluminum the car became perfect with a ton of forward grip. Maybe outside the added weight was just the trick but everyone who runs Durango at our track and has done well had the aluminum chassis in the exact conditions the shorter, stiffer chassis is supposed to suck in.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

a lot of it I think can be relative to setup too when going from the plastic one to alloy and back.

Devin

Yeah I always thought maybe I was just running too stiff of a spring in the rear, however all the guys truly happy with their DEX were running the aluminium chassis.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I have never believed in chassis flex as a tuning aid. Once I developed a thorough technique for tuning, I've found that a stiffer chassis is always better. Some people swear that you need flex. It is my opinion that they don't truly know how to tune very well and rely on chassis flex as a bandaid to help cover that lack of knowledge. From loose dirt to high grip, I've always found that the stiffest chassis was the best.

bmag5000

Aluminum chassis is better for big tracks. Small tracks the plastic chassis might be better.
I race on big 1/8th tracks so id benefit from an aluminum chassis.

jcsantana92

iTrader: (3)

I might try the 31/78, but I think I'm pushing the limits already. I ordered a programming Card and play around with the settings a bit and see if it improves.

My problem with the Ball Diff originally was that it was sliding too much and I was loosing power. I tried tightening it up a bit, which helped, but it seemed to be looser in one side than the other one and one I hit the power it would steer to one side. I might have tighten it a bit too much and have to loosen it up a bit, but still seems weird to me... First time I've had a Ball Diff though.

Pic of the track:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vxa034rd8z..._3237.JPG?dl=0