hiangoh

iTrader: (1)

I've been running the new b5m after being frustrated with the durango. its a great car but its not the easiest to set up and its twitchy. however recently there has been an astro track set up and for some reason i decided to give the durango a try again, and man did it perform. i think the car was totally designed for high grip tech tracks

av4625

Ok i have tried it but only on a slipperyish surface, i found that it gives more steering and less rear grip, i hvent tried it on high grip as i usually have lots of steering with this buggy in MM4 and it jumps better i found in MM4 but each to there own!

av4625

For the guy asking about camber, i usually start with -1.5 front and rear, sometimes -1 front and maybe -2 rear, i never use less than -1 and usually no more than -2 on the front and no more than -2.5 rear!

thefan

iTrader: (3)

Ok will try this setup on my dirt car of longer wheelbase which should in theory put more weight on the rear wheels so more grip and which in turn means less steering but you get some of that back by only needing 3° toe and the inline steering, do you also put the 4 spacers in front of the hubs for the inline steering?

TLRrunner

iTrader: (9)

has anyone opted to run the gear diff over the ball diff in their 210? If so how did you set it up?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I've always found "rear grip" to be a misnomer. Most people interpret it to mean forward grip. However another important aspect of rear grip is rear end grip under braking going into a corner. This is side grip. MM in general has less side grip due to less weight on the rear wheels which is most noticeable on lower grip surfaces. Due to less weight on the wheels, the artificial weight transfer of MM4 helps with forward grip during acceleration. That much is true. Keep in mind that I add weight to the rear half of the buggy to account for a static weight redistribution from going to MM. The difference is that the weight is not way behind the rear wheels anymore.

Think about artificial weight transfer this way. Let's make up some numbers first of all. Let's say our buggy weighs 4 lbs. Let's also say that 60% of that weight is on the rear wheels in MM. That's 2.4 lbs on the rear end. Lets say that in rear motor there's 70% weight on the rear wheels. That's 2.8 lbs on the wheels. You can already see a .4 lb difference. Most people run RM3 which opposes an artificial weight transfer from the motor. Most people also run 3° rear kick which also further reduces weight transfer to the rear.

In MM4, the motor rotation assists in shifting weight bias to the rear. It does this by taking it away from the front. MM4 cars have been known to wheelie even on tracks that RM cars don't. If it wheelies, that's 4 lbs of weight on the rear wheels so good forward grip. However that's also 0 weight on the front wheels which is useless for on power cornering. You've got to baby it. To compensate people run rear kick and add weight up front. That certainly helps but doesn't change the fact that under hard braking during turn in, weight is shifted forwards which is less side grip on the rear. That's why many MM cars spin out easier going into looser track corners than RM cars do.

You may be saying that MM3 isn't going to do any better going into a corner. That's true but only if you leave the weight distribution the same. I add some weight. I just don't add it up front. I add it in back. I increase the weight on drive wheels. I also run no rear kick which also helps a bit with rear weight transfer under acceleration. I may not get 4 lbs of weight on the wheels under hard acceleration but if you don't need that much, why have it? The added weight on my rear wheels is also an aid in corner turn in off power. When I get on the throttle, I keep more grip on the wheels that steer.

Have I ever run MM4? Yes. We had one track layout that had berms for corners that you had to ride like a skateboard and no sweeping corners. That was a point and shoot layout. MM4 worked better there. Then again RM3 worked better yet since it was more controllable. If I can't make MM3 work, I'll go back to RM3. I don't ever like the motor rotating in the same direction as the wheels. It's much more twitchy to drive.

If you just run MM3 on a low grip track but you don't take the time to pay attention to weight or a balanced spring setup, you will be disappointed. Most people don't, and are.

P6

iTrader: (5)

I started with 3k diff oil but with the buggy being so lite I ended up at grease because it felt light enough to drive on power without it pushing the front end , I don't go above 2k but it also depends on your setup and how you drive

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

How about a poll….has anyone actually run all four configurations?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost done guys! Building my new DEX210v2 that is. A lot of the updates are really subtle but well worth it overall. I really dig the new front shock tower. Beefier. Better geometry.

Running my electronics down the middle car seems to balance with the stock springs very well. Testing using the drop test. from 10-12 inches. Chassis just barely touches. Chassis rebounds flat. I'm using 1.7mmx2 and associated 30wt (I KNOW BLASPHEMY! lol) all around. 1.7mmx3 in the back. The setup is MM3, and very close to the kit settings. I'll be hitting OCRC soon to test it out.
I'll post setup and notes as soon as I do. I'm gonna try a set of panther switches and Bobcat fronts. Of course I have my trusty barcodes too. Perhaps I'll get a set of Dirtwebs finally.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

The front tower doesn't seem to be as strong as the v1 looks good

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@RCJunky: Really?! That surprises me a bit. It looks thicker. Have you broken a few?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@TLRRunner: I ran my gear diff with 5K and 7K. 5K seems good when the traction is a little lower. 3K seemed to diff out too often. I ran 7K most of the time. It's nice and low maintenance. If you run ceramic balls in the diff though, it's pretty bullet proof even with a low turn mod motor.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

I have snapped a front v2 tower never a v1 but.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@fredswain: and anyone else who has tried MM3, how do you reverse the rotation of your motor? Maybe I am missing something...It seems this is only possible with sensor less motors and the HobbyWing Xerun 3.1….?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

You don't reverse the rotation of the motor. You build the gearbox with only 3 gears instead of 4 and place the spur gear on the right side instead of the left.