setting droop correctly?
#17
Just a reminder,
The MOST important tuning option you have is TIRES..
Changing shocks oil, springs, droop, ect. do have some affect on how well your car handles but they're nothing compared to changing tires.
I too was changing droop, springs, and all the other adjustments to try and stop my car from pushing. Nothing really helped. Finally it dawned on me to try a softer tire in the front and BINGO,,, my push went away just like that.
The MOST important tuning option you have is TIRES..
Changing shocks oil, springs, droop, ect. do have some affect on how well your car handles but they're nothing compared to changing tires.
I too was changing droop, springs, and all the other adjustments to try and stop my car from pushing. Nothing really helped. Finally it dawned on me to try a softer tire in the front and BINGO,,, my push went away just like that.
#20
Tech Regular
Originally posted by TOEBSTER2
Say you have a fresh set of shoes and run them for the day just resetting your ride hight say to 5mm, what is happening to your car set up? Is it getting loose, pushie or twitchie? I run the NTC3 with -3 and -5 like bbntc3.
Say you have a fresh set of shoes and run them for the day just resetting your ride hight say to 5mm, what is happening to your car set up? Is it getting loose, pushie or twitchie? I run the NTC3 with -3 and -5 like bbntc3.
What is being recommended here is to set ride height and then set droop (the amount the cars rises before the tires lift off). There is no gage number for this because it depends on tire dia.
Set ride height and tweak, then lift up on the car and set the droop so the the car travels up a certain distance before the tires lift off the ground. On a smooth track that number can be as little as 1 mm, but usually we use 2 to 3 for outdoor racing. The end with less droop will usually have less traction...note I said usually because like all adjustments it depends on the rest of the set-up.
On my NTC3 I run about 1mm in front and about 2 in the back, on my TC3 it is just the opposite because I am usually looking for more steering on in door tracks
#22
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Yes, it's important - droop has a significant effect on weight transfer.
As D says, when you change the ride height to accommodate tyre wear, you need to restore the droop setting. If there was a way around it, we'd all be doing it.
If you have enough tyres of similar diameter and rotate them, you don't have to do many adjustments. It doesn't take long once you get used to the fact that 1/2 a turn on the droop screw equates to "X" amount of droop. Then just lift the chassis to ensure there's no tweak.
As D says, when you change the ride height to accommodate tyre wear, you need to restore the droop setting. If there was a way around it, we'd all be doing it.
If you have enough tyres of similar diameter and rotate them, you don't have to do many adjustments. It doesn't take long once you get used to the fact that 1/2 a turn on the droop screw equates to "X" amount of droop. Then just lift the chassis to ensure there's no tweak.
So droop setup correctly with the suspension on or off the car? I have 2 different result with/without the suspension. On my R40, i have different amount of turns between right and left upfront in order to get the same number. Is this normal or something binding in the suspension arms?
#23
Originally posted by fuse01
pls suggest a drp height for mtx3
thanks
big track...
pls suggest a drp height for mtx3
thanks
big track...
#24
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
how does the 50w work with the blue tamiya springs?
I was thinkin of puttin 50w with either yellow or blue to minimize roll on the rear...
let's see if I understant
the more doop the more tracktion but more body roll, correct? - more weirght transfer to the opposire end?
a neutral setting is not always 0 ?
I was thinkin of puttin 50w with either yellow or blue to minimize roll on the rear...
let's see if I understant
the more doop the more tracktion but more body roll, correct? - more weirght transfer to the opposire end?
a neutral setting is not always 0 ?
#25
Originally posted by Profoxcg
how does the 50w work with the blue tamiya springs?
I was thinkin of puttin 50w with either yellow or blue to minimize roll on the rear...
let's see if I understant
the more doop the more tracktion but more body roll, correct? - more weirght transfer to the opposire end?
a neutral setting is not always 0 ?
how does the 50w work with the blue tamiya springs?
I was thinkin of puttin 50w with either yellow or blue to minimize roll on the rear...
let's see if I understant
the more doop the more tracktion but more body roll, correct? - more weirght transfer to the opposire end?
a neutral setting is not always 0 ?
#27
tianci
thats the same setup i run for droop and shock oil
but i change between purple,blue,grey shocks depending
on track and conditions
thats the same setup i run for droop and shock oil
but i change between purple,blue,grey shocks depending
on track and conditions
#28
Originally posted by sbmon
tianci
thats the same setup i run for droop and shock oil
but i change between purple,blue,grey shocks depending
on track and conditions
tianci
thats the same setup i run for droop and shock oil
but i change between purple,blue,grey shocks depending
on track and conditions
For me I am still doing a lot of set up tests, been using the same spring but changing shock oils from 40 to 50 to 60, seems to work pretty fine but I know damping and springs are totally different things.
#29
Originally posted by Profoxcg
for a moment i though i was on the tamiya forum , lol
for a moment i though i was on the tamiya forum , lol
1 sit infront of a mirror
2 open right hand
3 look into mirror
4 smack hand onto forehead and say "DUH~"
5 repeat step no. 4 three times
#30
the greys seem to work pretty good for me at the REALLY
big track i run at , this track has a 265ft back straight and lanes are like atleast 12 foot wide around the whole track, the track is ideal for 1/8 scale but we have alot of fun on it with the nitro sedans. This is a track where powerful motors and lots of gearing really help. I use the grey springs , but i use the rear springs for the front and back, when the foams wear down you still have plenty more thread to go down on this way.
big track i run at , this track has a 265ft back straight and lanes are like atleast 12 foot wide around the whole track, the track is ideal for 1/8 scale but we have alot of fun on it with the nitro sedans. This is a track where powerful motors and lots of gearing really help. I use the grey springs , but i use the rear springs for the front and back, when the foams wear down you still have plenty more thread to go down on this way.